Hawkins 1995

Hi guys I'm looking to track our car this year and wondering what mods I could add currently the spec of our bug sti is

Exedy clutch with light flywheel
Sc38 turbo
Rcm headers plus up pipe
Rcm fpr
Perrin induction kit
3 inch decat exhaust
walbro full pump
GDF bov
Perrin inlet pipe
3 boost port boost
Perrin 4 map sensor
Tegwia break stopper
braided break lines
Whiteline front and back arb
Fuji pitch stop
meister coilovers
Tegwia radiator
Full silicone scoobyworld hose kit
Funk Moter sport turbo blacket

I've got droplinks front and back to go on and a perrin oil air separator to go on just not had time

Was thinking maybe wrap the header and downpipe, oil cooler, Hardrace Adjustable arm kit and New exhaust as current is to load, tyres plus baffled sump

Just wondering if there is anything else I can add plus what brand is everone using for oil cooler and exhaust

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Different sump for better oil control?

Hawkins 1995

Was looking at this or is there a better kit out there

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Hmm I'm not sure that makes a lot of difference (I've got an RCM plate similar to that one).

The twin scroll is reportedly the best OEM option, and "KillerB" is a company that manufacture aftermarket sumps that apparently have superior oil control.

I'm running a twin scroll sump myself, but I haven't taken this engine out on track yet.

A dry sump would be the "best" option, but it's probably knocking on for 4k, and is quite complicated in terms of oil lines running to an external tank etc etc.

Hawkins 1995

4k is a bit much for us haha ill look into the twin scroll sump and rcm plate

Puff The Magic Wagon!

iTrader: (2)

AP 4 or 6 Pots - all very good going fast out of the corners but later and more controlled braking adds more seconds per lap than an extra couple of BHP.

Brakes were always my first mod, then coilovers, then other suspension bits (ARBs/braces etc) before I started worrying about extra BHP. On tracks its about maintaining speed rather than getting there. On a drag strip its making speed.

Hawkins 1995

Ture I'm not looking for anymore power tbh as its great for the roads we got hear won't better pads and disc be enough or dose the brombo fade quickly

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

If you're swapping the sump get a baffled one. Not just the windage tray.

Lots of pad options (Performance Friction, Carbon Lorraine to name two) PF rotors will do for starters and if you're made of money go for AP but not their rotors is what I've heard.

Give Alyn at AS Performance a shout, he can offer solutions to all of the above and more plus he's great to deal with.

Hawkins 1995

Cheers mate I've got pfc atm great pads and for the sump have you got a link for the baffled sump by any chance

LewisScoob

iTrader: (5)

https://www.advancedautomotives.co.u...165-6294-p.asp

Ask Alyn for a price too, i'm sure he distributes RCM stuff... i would guess it may be a bitty cheaper.

Hawkins 1995

Cheers mate will do

Mperregil

iTrader: (20)

Alloy radiator.Got a Mishimoto alloy radiator for sale.Keeping temperature down.

Hawkins 1995

Already got one but cheers mate

Mperregil

iTrader: (20)

No problems.

edsel

iTrader: (2)

If you're gonna do the baffled sump conversion properly do a twin-scroll conversion. RCM baffled oil pan, twin-scroll windage tray, twin-scroll pick up pipe and dipstick. Alyn @ AS supplied mine.

Hawkins 1995

How much did that set you back of you don't mind us asking

joe v3sti

iTrader: (8)

Stock with genuine OEM radiator. Way more efficient than the cheapo mishimoto

Hawkins 1995

I got a tegwia rad as the stock one give up after 17 years haha scoobyclinic recommended a tegwia

Vxr2010

From doing a few track days , you can either drive the car as they are as they do very well on a track , or if it’s going to be a serous track car and money not a worry then , roll cage ? ?£ £ , a set of slick tyres , coilovers , see if better pads are enough if not callipers , baffled sump , a better fuel supply as if you corner hard it can run lean , that’s reduced by keeping a full tank , if it’s sustained high speed then a front mount intercooler , my first scooby track day was a standard car , killed the tyres but great fun and had no car issues , latest track day i was hitting over 160 mph regularly and things got a bit late warm 🤣 , having the ac on puts another fan on the rad and helps with temps

Hawkins 1995

What track was you doing 160 on haha

Vxr2010

Raf marhan was my favourite , it had a fairly tight bend which you could get up to about 70 mph on then a 1.5 ish mile main runway to get to max speed , a v12 aston martin v a mildly tuned fsti nothing in it apart from the fsti was a lot cheaper , i got over 160 on the main straight , it was only 80£ for a day but i don’t think they do it any more , big run offs if it went wrong , there was an f40 there till it blew its engine or turbo i’m not sure

Jonny Cut Corners

Fair warning, once you start modifying for track use it can be a slippery slope!

You could happily go do a trackday as it is, if you’re happy to be sensible and not overly abuse the car.


If more mods are the road you’re going to take then do try to think about things as a whole and how one change can influence other things.

EG, fitting sticky tyres = higher cornering G’s = higher risk of oil & fuel starve.

Fitting track brake pads = increased brake temp range = Higher risk of boiling fluid and or warping discs (esp if 1 piece discs)



Here’s a few pointers of the top of my head.

1) Oil- Keep a very close eye on oil consumption and take a top up bottle. Personally I’m not a believer in the fancy windage trays as they don’t much to actually keep oil were the pick up is. A Baffled sump is the best bet, RCM or Killer B do good ones.

External oil cooler is a very good idea, as is fitting an oil temp and pressure gauge.

Put fresh oil (ester based synthetic) in before the TD and think about going up a grade to 10-50W. I’ve recently been told the Silverline oil is very good for running at high temps. Not tried it myself yet though.



2) Brakes. These get such a hammering they've really got to be in top condition. This includes the brake fluid. If its more then a year old change it for some high boiling point dot4 such as Gulf racing RF1000 or Motul RBF660.
You'll have brembo's calipers so which is good, but only half the story. Pads are just as important, I found EBC yellow’s had good feel but wouldn’t even last a day!
Performance Friction Z-rated pads have been brilliant and based on their wear I think will last 5 trackdays.

Oh and NEVER use your handbrake after a track session. It’ll cool unevenly and warp your discs



3) Fueling – long right handers can easily cause fuel starvation. Best solution is a swirl pot with additional fuel pump. If not you’ll need to keep the tank more than half full and be watchful of any stuttering, especially if you don’t have an AFR gauge. Running lean won’t do your pistons any good!

Check what the fuel situation at the track is before the day. Many only sell 97RON if at all. My car’s mapped on 99 so I have to take 5No 20lt jerry cans with me (yes its very thirsty!)



4) Tyres – Semi-slick’s are great but if you’re just starting out then high performance tyres like Pilotsport 4S’s or even Eagle F1’s are plenty good enough and last a lot longer. Do take a pressure cage and a little pump though. You’ll want to drop the psi a bit (look on the manufactures website for correct hot pressures) but then you’ll need to pump them back up to drive home.


5) Temp management – This kind of could be No.1 on the list really as heat management the biggest challenge with any track/race car.

Ways to combat heat

• Fit a high flow thermostat
• Wrapped headers, up-pipe and down-pipe will help reduce heat soak (turbo blankets are proven to work too)
• Phenolic inlet spacers.
• Always keep an eye on the temp gauges on track and when things start getting warm just take a cool down lap.
• External power steering cooler might be needed eventually, as speed increases
• Higher power cars might need a fuel cooler for the hottest days
• On really hot days you might need to put your cabin heaters on full to transfer heat out the water.

6) Suspension – adding camber front and back will help on track but will also wear your tyres out more quickly on the road. So up to you to choose the balance.





All of the above base on my experience from tracking my classic WRX a for a few years. Opinions may vary!

T5NYW

iTrader: (4)

all good points above, agree brakes 4 pot brembo good enough pressure
upgrade PF disc and Pads
upgrade braided brake lines
upgade mutol rf dot (cheaper &higher temps than most DOT5)
Cooling ducting

Oil cooler
baffled sump (change pick up pipe and Locktite bolt in)
upgrade thermostat.
oil catch can

Fuel pump and regulator.

Defi or the like gauges, Oil temp and water temp (boost gauge ??)
4 wheel camber and caster alignment,
front and rear adjustible links and cornerweighted is better

fit FMIC depending on which tracks and top speeds

Use good tyre with hard tyrewall strenght on newage, unless you want a tyre squealing understeering car.
i like Bridgestone RE070,s but iffy in the wet the RE050,s are a good all rounder as is Pilot sports 3.

Tony

boaty69

Ah did Marham once and swore never again, great fun and value but the grit and stone chips were immense. Filled the wheel arches with fine grit. I guess those Tornados blow that **** everywhere.