classic turbo 2000 common issues
#1
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classic turbo 2000 common issues
Hi all, new around here and potentially looking to dive into my first scooby this year. Personally a big fan of the classic turbo 2000 (Also for insurance purposes) and have found some seemingly nice examples in my area however besides arch rot and a few other common issues what else should I be looking for ? The car I'm currently looking at looks in good nick but I'm only going off the advert here, failed MOT having 2 drive shaft issues and a minor exhaust leak then passed with no advisories a week later. Done around 120k so I'm assuming, as any other car would, issues are going to arise. Any help would be much appreciated. Cheers!
#2
Scooby Regular
Rot as you said is main concern , you need a really good look around it , rear arches and sills front subframe seems like most likely issues , check no engine rattles ie bottom end issue , no over heating ie head gasket , and not a steady stream of bubbles into non pressured expansion tank if they have one ?? , gearboxes can be a bit noisy on over run , take it for a good drive , my main things are rot and is engine ok
#3
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Rot as you said is main concern , you need a really good look around it , rear arches and sills front subframe seems like most likely issues , check no engine rattles ie bottom end issue , no over heating ie head gasket , and not a steady stream of bubbles into non pressured expansion tank if they have one ?? , gearboxes can be a bit noisy on over run , take it for a good drive , my main things are rot and is engine ok
#4
Scooby Regular
Classics are generally reliable. I took my MY2000 wagon to 150,000 miles before selling it due to wheel arch rust. Failures were clutch flywheel bearing, blowing exhaust flange, radiator and 2 rear wheel bearings. Headlights are useless, brakes are marginal if driven quickly and it understeered a lot. Otherwise a lovely car.
#5
Scooby Regular
I had a MY00 Turbo 2000 Wagon from 2012 to 2015 when I had to break it due to rear suspension turret/sub-frame corrosion. In that time I did over 20k miles and encountered the following issues (excluding rust!): had to replace all OE shocks/springs; replaced front calipers when one stuck, leaking down-pipe needed replaced and I think that was all. It never actually broke down and was reliable for the age of it. Mine had the PPP which was a really nice amount of shove.
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (4)
As above, if it’s been looked after it’ll just be the usual car buying checks.
My wagon is on 142k and engine is smooth as silk even if started from cold after 3 months sitting.
Get a cold start if you can and make sure it’s not shaky at idle, if it is until it warms up it may have compression issues from exhaust valve seating.
Just make sure the history is good and if you get it, keep the oil changes up. I do mine every 6 months (no excuse for this as it’s cheap to do)
My wagon engine just feels like it’ll do another 140k, the body May have other ideas though!
My wagon is on 142k and engine is smooth as silk even if started from cold after 3 months sitting.
Get a cold start if you can and make sure it’s not shaky at idle, if it is until it warms up it may have compression issues from exhaust valve seating.
Just make sure the history is good and if you get it, keep the oil changes up. I do mine every 6 months (no excuse for this as it’s cheap to do)
My wagon engine just feels like it’ll do another 140k, the body May have other ideas though!
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