Forged or not?
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Forged or not?
Ok so I’m after some clarification if possible?
i have a v1 wrx sti cdb which is currently being rebuilt by myself, it’s almost ready to come out but I want to know if it would have any forged internals as standard or is this on the later models?
Is is there any way I can tell when it’s apart?
Still yet yet to find the main problem but these pics don’t look promising
Looking in to heads when inlet manifold is off, full of oil in every port
i have a v1 wrx sti cdb which is currently being rebuilt by myself, it’s almost ready to come out but I want to know if it would have any forged internals as standard or is this on the later models?
Is is there any way I can tell when it’s apart?
Still yet yet to find the main problem but these pics don’t look promising
Looking in to heads when inlet manifold is off, full of oil in every port
#2
Scooby Regular
Was just sat trying to think what could fail to fill all cylinders.
This is from memory.. from many years ago, when I rebuild my Rs
if it has oil squirters under pistons being a cdb, it’s capable of more bhp because it has forged pistons ...
actually after a search cause cause I remember this thread
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...d-pistons.html
This is from memory.. from many years ago, when I rebuild my Rs
if it has oil squirters under pistons being a cdb, it’s capable of more bhp because it has forged pistons ...
actually after a search cause cause I remember this thread
https://www.scoobynet.com/general-te...d-pistons.html
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Thanks for the link I found it very useful, ultimately there is a chance they may not be forged and the only way to tell is by taking them out, even then I’m just guessing by the thread that if the underside is smooth they are forged?
i also am trying to think of why all cylinders have failed, before dismantling it did start ok, ran a bit lumpy and smoked a lot obviously due to the oil. ( oil level was ok)
seemed to tap tap when the revs dropped and not a consistent tap.
beats me guess it’s a surprise when the heads and case come open.
i know one previous owner had rebuilt the engine only around 12000 miles ago as it only has 68 on the clock now.
i also am trying to think of why all cylinders have failed, before dismantling it did start ok, ran a bit lumpy and smoked a lot obviously due to the oil. ( oil level was ok)
seemed to tap tap when the revs dropped and not a consistent tap.
beats me guess it’s a surprise when the heads and case come open.
i know one previous owner had rebuilt the engine only around 12000 miles ago as it only has 68 on the clock now.
#4
Scooby Regular
Trying to think if a massively failed turbo could fill top of head with oil.
I also thought pistons were stamped with letters that might tell you what they are, as long as they haven’t been switched from standered they will be forged pal check your cam numbers and google them as well see what it’s got in. If you haven’t split one before have a good research into them there’s more bolts then you’d think. And don’t forget you have to piston heads away from rods before you can split it.
Big hex inspection bolt on each side c clips on grudge pin take that out and knock them through from opposition inspection hole. Taking pistons out and putting them back in was one job I hated lol
I also thought pistons were stamped with letters that might tell you what they are, as long as they haven’t been switched from standered they will be forged pal check your cam numbers and google them as well see what it’s got in. If you haven’t split one before have a good research into them there’s more bolts then you’d think. And don’t forget you have to piston heads away from rods before you can split it.
Big hex inspection bolt on each side c clips on grudge pin take that out and knock them through from opposition inspection hole. Taking pistons out and putting them back in was one job I hated lol
#5
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
I also thought it may be failed turbo but no oil has Managed to get in to the intercooler etc as it’s bone dry, I’m going to hazard a guess at piston ring/rings as would make sense of all rings wearing about the same.
i have done a couple of rebuilds my self before both on cdb but never took notice of pistons as it was always big ends failed but he’s i do remember the pins for the pistons, patience is the key I believe but it is tricky.
i will do the check with the cams though, so I would just google it and it will tell me what version or spec they are?
i have done a couple of rebuilds my self before both on cdb but never took notice of pistons as it was always big ends failed but he’s i do remember the pins for the pistons, patience is the key I believe but it is tricky.
i will do the check with the cams though, so I would just google it and it will tell me what version or spec they are?
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