Madmarx2

Hi all. Does the air pump only stay on for the warm up period ? Mine seems to run all the time even when full temp is reached although it does seem slower than when it runs from a cold start.. idle when warm is normal around 700 to 750 i guess. The air pump feed pipe still pulses when the car is warm.. Is this normal ? Impreza wrx 2.5 07 reg.

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

Did it have the recall for the pump relay done? I think that can cause the pump to overheat

Madmarx2

I have no paperwork for a recall and I have only had the car 5 weeks.. I'm sure that on my previous wrx 2.5 the air pump ran from cold for a minute or two then you could hear it shut off.. where is the relay located ? Or will it harm just to unplug the power connector or will that throw a light on ? Cheers.

Madmarx2

Update ! The pump isnt even working. The pulsing and sucking noise is my engine drawing air in through the pump. So I guess 1 valve or both control valves are staying open. Is there a fuse I can check for these operating ?

Vxr2010

on ebay there are blanking plates to get rid of it as in the pump , i’m not sure if it still needs an ecu mod possibly not ?

hedgecutter

iTrader: (5)

A mapper will map out the pump valves; most garages will only blank off when the engine is out, as it is fiddly and therefore labour cost is high for a small job. It can be done in situ, but it's a pita.

Jonnys3

Do you not have an EML illuminated ? When one of my valves got stuck the EML was on permanently. Fortunately for me, the valve which was stuck open was relatively easy to access and Scoobyworld created me a custom gasket to blank off the valve and then shut off the valves in the map, as well as deleting all the error codes associated with the Secondary Air Pump so they didn't trip the EML.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

As above. It's an impossible system to get to the bottom of what is at fault as you have the pump, 2 valves and non-return valves too which could all be causing problems and throwing error codes not necessarily related to the part at fault. Best to get it taken out and blank off the ports to the heads then get it all mapped out with the error codes turned off. Job done. Otherwise it will only fail again down the line.