I've searched and not got a clear picture , could do with a quick answer ,

They don't seem great where I have them




Thinking about turning the stand 90' and putting a piece of wood on them , is that point even ok though

 

 

150 views and not a single reply ,

 

I use the re-enforced jack points on the sill, as that's what they are designed for.

Where you have the wood looks fine, as it is spreading the load.

Jacking the car up on a weak spot does much more damage than standing a car on it, from my experience. However, I would suggest investing in some ramps and extenders for use when working under the car with the wheels still attached.

 

Thanks for that , ramps are no good taking the wheels and suspension off

 

This is very true.

When jacking the front, I use the big U-shaped lower support. For the rear I use the diff housing. Make sure you have some rubber/wood between the jack & diff. Again, I use the rear re-inforced jack points on the sill. Might not be so easy with those heavy-duty stands you have though (I have similar and find these lighter weight stands much better for supporting at the jack-points: http://www.halfords.com/workshop-too...ne-axle-stands - also, not a fan of ratchet stands from a safety view).

And one of these is a great DIY investment: http://www.costco.co.uk/view/p/arcan...j2000eu-900930

 

I've just had a look at where the standard Jack is positioned on my car and it doesn't exert any force onto that thin lip at the sill , it has a notch to avoid it , all the force is on the car just to the inside of the lip , I'm almost 100 per cent certain that the lip on my car would bend flat if I support on that , problem is the axle stand can't sit just inside the lip either ,

 

I jack my car up a LOT, it is on axle stands just now in fact.
Always jack up and put axle stands on the chassis rails at the front, never the sills or outriggers.
Rear I use the diff or subframe mounts, the subframe is strong. Again not the sills.
The edge of the sill was flattened when I bought the car, I've since pulled it straight. I'd say the factory jacking point on the sill is for emergency roadside puncture repair only.

 

Thanks boosted but I'm a complete novice who is diving in at the deep end , any chance you could post a pic of where you postion the axle stands , I've no idea what the chassis rails are ,

Is the position I have them in the picture with the wood an out rigger ?

Considering I don't know where to put the axle stands what I'm about to say will seem like madness but if I put them where you suggest would I be able to strip the car of every unboltable part , ie are the positions you mentioned on a part that I'd be removing to refurbish

 

Too late, my cars running again, you need them in towards the centre of the car more, on the chassis rails

 

You're right, the notch on the oem jack has no contact with the sill.



I've made some blocks out of beech wood exactly shaped like the oem jack and had my car sit on them for like two month without any problem.

 

Me being a joiner I should of thought of doing that myself , but I did make a block out of wood to go between the axle stand and sill at the rear



I didn't like how the car felt on those cheap red stands so I got another pair of the black ones