LardFather

I've been looking for a cheaper impreza for a few months now to get me started and to use as a daily driver, I've been looking in a few places and found this on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1216020277...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I'm curious to have peoples opinion on the car and the mileage. Basically is 120k too high as its start breaking soon or need a rebuild?

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Hmmmm clutch burp?
That's a new one.

TypeR99

iTrader: (2)

Theres way too much mileage paranoia going on at the moment. 120k is AVERAGE mileage for a 12 year old car.

Looking at that car, its overpriced because my friend James just sold a 2004 Silver Blob Wagon, the SL model with leather and sunroof for £2500 and the milage was just over 100k, 2 dings on the body but otherwise a lot better than the one in that ad.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Over priced - not in the current "trashed by SIOC" world.

The car itself looks sound, it's even got RE050 tyres instead of the usual "no expense spared" Ditchfinders. PPP is always a bonus and the fact a cambelt as been done.

My JDM Blob is knocking on 100k (miles and km combo) so the miles are not an issue for me, my old Classic V5 STI was bought with nearly 90K and is now 120k+ with the new owner, all miles from new as a grey import.

But WTF is a clutch burp?

LardFather

Just to be clear its not the mileage over the years (120 over 10 isn't bad I agree) that concerns me just the actual miles it has on and whether it'll start to cost more than its being sold for in the near future, my mr2 cost about three times what I paid for it once I started getting 'a few littel jobs done'

I appreciate the comments so far and I was going to judge the clutch thing when/if I test drive it.

Its seems fairly priced to me but that's why I'm on here asking for advice from the lads (and lasses) in the know

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

I paid 3300 for same 05 model with 90k on 18months ago.
had receipt for cambelt but one of the idlers started making noise 6 months later so forked out 300ish for all of that and then the turbo went after that.
you just can't tell.

stamina_daddy

iTrader: (3)

Definitely worth a punt or save more money for a lower mileage one.
decisions decisions.
think it's been up a while.take 2k cash and offer that if you like it.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

Looks good to me to be honest. Wouldn't have said it was over priced at £2400. Looks well documented, maintained and cared for in general.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Impossible to tell I’m afraid, without driving it. Mileage counts for very little. What’s important is how it’s been maintained over those 120k miles and most important, how it’s been driven – sympathetically or thrashed? Which I’m afraid is impossible to tell. Pay yer money, takes yer chances….

However, I did buy a 2002 WRX Wagon back in October with 122k on it and practically zero paperwork….from a dealer. Seemed original and cared for during my brief inspection and was cheap enough to take a punt on. Changed the battery and all fluids/filters + 4 new tyres. I’ve driven 11k in the last 5 months and it hasn’t missed a beat. Admittedly the brakes need changing now and the suspension is in the process of being refreshed but these are just consumables that I had anticipated when I bought the car, hence the price I paid. Had it over at CP Autos last month for an inspection and they confirmed that it had been looked after and engine was in rude health. So don’t be put off by high mileage. But obviously it’s a punt as you don’t know how’s it’s been cared for and driven.

At around £2k, I think they are great value and definitely worth a punt. Get an inspection prior/after you buy it for peace of mind. Alternatively, it could be an utter money pit….but then you are buying a 10 year old car for a couple of grand – the same could be said of any make any model at this price point. I bought a 2008 Ford Focus at about the same time, one owner from new, FSH, 80k, for considerably more than my Scooby…..that lasted 4 months before the rings failed, effectively turning the car to scrap.

LardFather

I agree with the consensus so far that its hard to tell without driving and even then there's no guarantee that it'll even make the trip home without issues as that's just how it is. I am however buoyed by that the mileage doesn't really bother people it does look clean, 2k cash seems cheeky but at 2.4 its going to have to wait until pay day I reckon.

mestonian

Years ago i bought a WRX with 113K on it, that car was the most reliable car i've had (including against new £30/£40k cars) - it ran and ran and ran sweet as a nut, no issues whatsoever, mileage is very little, maintenance is everything. Everyone seems to think cars die at 100k, it's madness, i know of a guy with a saab locally on 345k - original engine, serviced properly and no issues.

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Would you rather have a car with on 50k on the clock, that has been driven in stop-start city traffic, schools run, ragged from cold etc. With people constantly getting in and out of the seats, doors opening/closing, driven up kerbs, oil changes only every 10k, money scrimped on parts etc? Or the same year car with 150k on the clock, that has driven 300mile commute on motorways every day, serviced regularly with quality parts and driven sympathetically? Of course you’ll have no real way of knowing this but demonstrates how little mileage matters. Most cars that I’ve had issues with have happen had less than 100k, whereas the ones over, I’ve had the least issues with. If things are going to fail, they usually do so sooner, rather than later. I’d consider the high mileage as a good indication is anything, it’s manage 120k without failing! That’s until the exhaust falls off and it steers your into a ditch on the test drive

mestonian

I've always had the same outlook. If a car is on 120/130k, then it's a good un to me. I know that sounds completely ridiculous to others, but as you say, most cars ive had issues with have been under 70/80k, the few higher milers ive had were all bullet proof.

BrownPantsRacing

iTrader: (6)

I used to own a diesel escort estate to get me to work and back, had done over 300k miles and still ran great. Had to fit a new diesel pump, but otherwise just fine. Always serviced, mostly motorway miles so everything still worked fine!

jaygsi

iTrader: (46)

I'd keep looking, sure you can find same car cheaper, if it was a one owner standard from new with ffs, then yes

TECHNOPUG

iTrader: (1)

Probably only talking a couple hundred quid difference in price though.

BoozyDave

iTrader: (8)

my last blob had 50k but was squeaking and creaking with each corner, I thought it was normal until I bought my new blob with over 100k on the clock. no rattles or squeaks and feels so much better.
old one had FSH, but it must have had a hard life. new one hasn't got much paperwork (lost), it was sold through a garage (who know the family and did some of the work) on behalf of the owner. the 1st owner was a multi millionaire and maintained it regardless of cost, she gave it to her daughter and she did the same. in the 5 months before I bought it she had new ARB's and bushes, new discs, pads and the calipers rebuilt all round.

I had it on the rolling road for a health check before I started modifying, it had over 100k on the clock and made 242bhp . now on 107k and running 330bhp

FlatoutDave

I agree generally cars get to 70-80 thousand miles and thing start going wrong. A car with 120k on the clock more than likely has had all the weak links replaced. I'd be happy to pay that price for that car

LardFather

Thanks to everyone who's replied on this, I'm happy that generally the opinions are positive. I have a thought in mind that if it lasts me 18 months I'll be happy as its cheaper than my current daily driver on finance but based on what people are saying 18 months (which probably means about 10k) is just the start.

Keep the opinions coming please, the more the merrier, you guys are a friendly bunch.

stiMIGHTYsti

iTrader: (1)

My truck I was in today (MAN class1tipper) had over 600k on it ran like a dream. All about the upkeep really I think.

lordharding

iTrader: (1)

Looking at your location
Post on Nesf forum
Lots of guys on there that might actually know the car or owner amd they might even help you look at it of you support Newcastle /Sunderland etc

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Bought my current Blob Wagon PPP with 92k on the clock, was dealer owned for 1st 13k then spent the next 5yrs owned by an engineer / enthusiast, now it's owned by another engineer/ enthusiast (me) It's just gone through 114k and hasn't missed a beat, I change the oil every 5k / 6 months and use Motul 300v (the good stuff) most of the time bar the 1st change which was fuchs titan.

These cars will do the milage as long as they have regular oil changes and are allowed to warm up before being given beans.

I am also of the opinion that if it's made it to 120k then it's probably a good un and had lots of parts replaced as a matter of course along the way, mine is still on the original clutch and it's a little noisy which is one of the bearings, but I'm not going to fix it until it's broke, because it's sounded like it does for the last 15k and still pulls in every gear.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Just read the add; car looks honest to me and it's a good sign that it's still in daily use.

Mine is a 54 plate wagon with PPP not the best cosmetically with a few little car park door dings and a light scuff on the rear bumper, to me that's normal for a car that gets used as a daily, you'd need to put £3.5k on the table to make me part with it, and it will need a cambelt and a clutch in 7k, but I know it's a good car so that's what it would cost to make me take the chance on another.

Zuber

Maintenance is everything along with how the car has been treated. Look at some of the American forums and some guys over there have got 250k plus on their motors and still going strong!

ven

I bought a wrx 52 plate with 132k on clock,obviously not bothered or i would not have bought it. Main thing is to check it all out as i did. Full subaru history including the 140 and 150k service with al belts/plugs/oils etc. Confirmed by subaru and MOTs.

It the highest mileage i have bought,but its tighter than a nuns ****,no knocks,on the button. So i would rather have higher miles but documented than the alway 70 or 80k with stamps missing........least i have a more accurate idea of the miles. Seats/bolsters do not even have wear,not the gear gator

I got it checked out by my MOT guy anyway,admittedly too late if anything was fubar,but i know enough to get an idea on ,if it will be or not.

At time


Now


Done about 5k of issue free miles and coming up for a service soon.

Dont get me wrong,i would rather look at 50k than the now 137k but its a tool,for work daily use ,school runs and nipping to the van for hols....

Its not mark free,and tbh if perfect i would only be over paranoid with any slight ding(bad enough with my ocd anyway )

Good luck

LardFather

I think I'm going for it (assuming it drives ok and looks as good in the flesh as it does in the advert) just need to shift my current car and I'll be set.

Might get an AA inspection done too, just to ease my mind; unless anyone can recommend someone better in the area?

ALi-B

iTrader: (1)

I've seen cars with less than 80K with trashed suspension/gearbox/engine.

The main problem is you are looking at a 11 year old car. Old cars are old cars, regardless of mileage, their condition is more based on tehir previous owners. maintenance and storage conditions.

The latter is a crucial point...a car that's been garaged will be a lot more healthy underneath than one parked over grass. You wouldn't believe what damage parking over grass does to the suspension and brakes (grass collects, dew, dew makes everything rust). Same logic can be applied to a car from the coast and cars driven during winter.

The mileage really is only a small part of the whole picture.

stiMIGHTYsti

iTrader: (1)

Grimsby not exactly northeast. Confused

Superbracey

The clutch chirp / hoot he mentions sounds like an issue we have with the Hyundais we use at work. It's apparent on a lot of them, even from very low mileage. I dont know what causes it but it doesn't affect the performance and none of the clutches have let go or slip (and they are driven very hard!).

I realise Hyundai i30's have different clutches to Imprezas but it was his likening of the noise to Paul McCartney saying "Ooooohh!" that I immediately recognised.

The majority of my cars have had over 100k miles, some bearing double that. Modern engines tend to be just about run in, though suspension and steering can get sloppy. I've no experience of turbo petrol cars at that mileage as I'm new to Impreza ownership. Offer him £2300 cash and see what he says.

LardFather

I'm going to view the car tomorrow, other than the obvious and the things listed in the buyers guides does anyone have any advice?

I plan to do the obvious things; drive it try all the gears, brake, check for damage, check service history/hpi/write off status, check all switches work, doors lock, doesn't smoke/leak anywhere, rust on the arches, panel gaps and so on. . . .