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Old 08 February 2015, 12:08 PM
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peter zippy reid
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Noticed my car is overboosting hitting 2bar what causes this have checked vacuum hoses
Old 08 February 2015, 07:57 PM
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Neil XR
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could be cold weather
Old 08 February 2015, 08:02 PM
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Car is mapped to 1.65bar would cold weather cause that much overboost

Last edited by peter zippy reid; 08 February 2015 at 09:41 PM.
Old 08 February 2015, 09:06 PM
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Neil XR
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doubt it

probably sticky solenoid
Old 08 February 2015, 09:08 PM
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Thinking that as its running 2 port as i forgot 3 port on mapping day
Old 08 February 2015, 09:23 PM
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noticed mine shoot up to 1.7 the other day, mapped to 1.4 - 1.5.

cold conditions i expect, driving fine with no problems.

siv

btw way i have a 3 port
Old 08 February 2015, 09:25 PM
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peter zippy reid
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Mine drives fine was just worried as 2bar is a lot
Old 08 February 2015, 09:39 PM
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Forged or standard block ?

Siv
Old 08 February 2015, 09:40 PM
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Standard 2003 sti jdm over 400bhp
Old 08 February 2015, 09:49 PM
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Neil XR
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probably try cleaning out the 2 port and go from there

running 1.6 bar on 3 port long with target boost set up on ecu, so should never over boost
Old 08 February 2015, 09:51 PM
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sivo
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Forged Pistons then afaik.

My builder said my block would cope with 2 bar + without issue but I'm no expert on the strength of a jdm engine.

Sorry I can't help you more buddy.

Siv
Old 09 February 2015, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for the info mate
Old 09 February 2015, 05:13 PM
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if its mapped for 1.65 and overboosting to 2 bar its got a serious issue, get it looked at and keep it off boosting till its looked at.
Old 09 February 2015, 06:28 PM
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Going in to garage this week
Old 11 February 2015, 09:12 AM
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Guys forgot to mention i fitted a catch can so tmic was separated from recirc valve could it be the paper gasket leaking as reused it
Old 11 February 2015, 09:23 AM
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Shouldn't the ECU be remapped to fuel cut well before 2bar?
Old 11 February 2015, 10:29 AM
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pretty sure fuel cut has been removed to get it to that pressure anyway
Old 11 February 2015, 11:13 AM
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Not sure but mapped to 1.65 bar so dont if fuel cut would still be working
Old 11 February 2015, 12:54 PM
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i cant remember the exact figures, but when i asked the question myself, the standard ecu can only see up to a certain level of boost, you don t want to go above that because it wont know what the boost is doing and may not add enough fuel. So to stay safe it need to be set the target lower than than to allow some head room for overboost.

if that makes sence at all lol
Old 11 February 2015, 01:22 PM
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It's entirely possible to retain the boost cut if you change the map sensor to one that can read above the boost pressure you run.
Old 11 February 2015, 04:15 PM
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UK cars about 1.5 bar, JDM newage 1.65 bar is about the limit the ecu see's from memory
Old 11 February 2015, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by The Pink Ninja
UK cars about 1.5 bar, JDM newage 1.65 bar is about the limit the ecu see's from memory
The ecu just sees voltage from the map sensor, it then converts that into a manifold pressure.
Old 11 February 2015, 05:19 PM
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But will me reusing my tmic to recirc valve cause a leak
Old 11 February 2015, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by peter zippy reid
But will me reusing my tmic to recirc valve cause a leak
Gasket? Very very unlikely to be leaking, has mine appart more times than I can remember, never a problem.
A leak will not cause overboost anyway, very much the opposite.
Perhaps you have interfered with boost control pipe work though?

Last edited by boosted; 11 February 2015 at 06:16 PM.
Old 11 February 2015, 06:22 PM
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So look at 2 port and the two hoses attached to it
Old 11 February 2015, 06:26 PM
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I had perished vacuum hoses going to/from my solenoid causing a 2bar over boost on my classic. Worth a look!
Old 11 February 2015, 06:31 PM
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  • Originally Posted by peter zippy reid
    Mine drives fine was just worried as 2bar is a lot
Mine drove fine too untill my boost gauge alarmed at 2.0 bar and flew round to >2.5bar and something just went tack tack tack up front.

All because my cheap MBC jammed as stupidly Id had fitted while waiting for my new WGA with adjustable spring tension to arrive from Kinguwa.

Do yourself a favour and check that the WG actuator is still opening smoothly, you need to get an air line on it with about 1 bar. If it does not move , you found your problem.
Old 11 February 2015, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Linksfahrer
[*] Mine drove fine too untill my boost gauge alarmed at 2.0 bar and flew round to >2.5bar and something just went tack tack tack up front. All because my cheap MBC jammed as stupidly Id had fitted while waiting for my new WGA with adjustable spring tension to arrive from Kinguwa. Do yourself a favour and check that the WG actuator is still opening smoothly, you need to get an air line on it with about 1 bar. If it does not move , you found your problem.
Just on this it should start to open around 7/8psi or 0.5bar I believe (mine does anyway).
Old 11 February 2015, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by piehole1983
Just on this it should start to open around 7/8psi or 0.5bar I believe (mine does anyway).
That's probably fine for yours "starting to open" on a 2 port system, and unless you have a forged engine I imagine your aiming at considerably less than his 1.65bar ?

Whatever , it should open smoothly and as you cannot watch it while you drive you should test it statically, as they can jam. its also worth to take a look to check that you have 3mm of pretension on the WG rod , otherwise the WG will open later than you wish if the arm is too tight or you lent hard on the mount bracket while fixing something else ?

WGA opening rate ultimately depends on what engine /turbo/ BC system you have and if you previously did anything to improve boost control on a WGA.

I found on the 2 port STD boost solenoid for control that I could not even make target boost with the WGA that came on the New Turbo.
So If you are aiming to reach 1.65 bar then you either need a 3 port system or you probably need a spring rated at least 0.8 bar to avoid the WGA opening prematurely on a 2 port , (which kills your low rev range torque) That's why Kinugawa do a range of springs to fit. ( Rated at WG opening 1mm add 0.3bar for 5mm opening ) ,

I found I can use the 0.8 or 1.0 bar spring ok but the one rated 1.2 bar tends to overboost a little for my 1.5 bar target on a ported TD05 16G.

Now that I explained at that It will probably be something completely different , but at least you would have killed some time
Old 11 February 2015, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Linksfahrer
That's probably fine for yours "starting to open" on a 2 port system, and unless you have a forged engine I imagine your aiming at considerably less than his 1.65bar ? Whatever , it should open smoothly and as you cannot watch it while you drive you should test it statically, as they can jam. its also worth to take a look to check that you have 3mm of pretension on the WG rod , otherwise the WG will open later than you wish if the arm is too tight or you lent hard on the mount bracket while fixing something else ? WGA opening rate ultimately depends on what engine /turbo/ BC system you have and if you previously did anything to improve boost control on a WGA. I found on the 2 port STD boost solenoid for control that I could not even make target boost with the WGA that came on the New Turbo. So If you are aiming to reach 1.65 bar then you either need a 3 port system or you probably need a spring rated at least 0.8 bar to avoid the WGA opening prematurely on a 2 port , (which kills your low rev range torque) That's why Kinugawa do a range of springs to fit. ( Rated at WG opening 1mm add 0.3bar for 5mm opening ) , I found I can use the 0.8 or 1.0 bar spring ok but the one rated 1.2 bar tends to overboost a little for my 1.5 bar target on a ported TD05 16G. Now that I explained at that It will probably be something completely different , but at least you would have killed some time
Mine is targeting 1.2bar on a 3 port system. I tested mine statically using an air line and my refrigeration test manifold for accurate pressure readings and control. I should have said that its for the standard actuator on a TD04. My point was to the OP that it opens progressively with more pressure being applied so he knows what to watch for. I guess identifying his turbo and waste gate actuator would help.


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