jimbobs

bit of advice needed please! uk T2000 , engine is dry on front, and both rocker sides but there is oil coming from someware on the rear I think, the entire underside is wet all over, n patches all on ground!! any ideas? known oil leeks from rear?
secondly the brakes are terrible absolutely usless any speed n im having to fight the brake peddle with all my might! n it takes forever to come to a stop! no chance of an emergency stop!!! n it pulls to the right whilst doing so!
will the braking improve/ worth bothering with quality discs and pads or will I need 4 pots aswell?
cheers in advance

Zuber

Oil leak could be coming from the rear crank seal? And concerning your brakes, you should not be driving your car with brakes in that condition, extremely dangerous. Could be a number of things, take the wheels off and check each corner to find faults.

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Firstly the oil.


1. Is the sump dry on the outside?
2. Are you losing oil?
3. Is the sump plug tight?
4. Are the pipes to the turbo clean of oil?


Steering. How old is the car and have you had any work done recently?


1. Depending on age you should have 4 pots.
2. Is the brake fluid reservoir oil at the correct level and is it the correct type?
3. Do you have full movement on all the brake pistons?
4. What condition are the discs and pads?
5. Is the brake master cylinder in good condition?

Gear Head

iTrader: (2)

Crap brakes are probably due to seized pistons. And as above, don't drive it until fixed.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Yep sounds like rear crank seal and seized 4 pots, could be the turbo oil return pipe also though for the oil leak.

Ah the joys of owning a clapped out poorly maintained Subaru.

Awaits next thread titled "Loud knocking sound coming from engine bay"

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

Crap brakes will be seized pistons whether it's 4 pots or not. I had the same trouble when I got my T2000. Mines a 97 so it had 2 pots (seized). I've changed to 4 now though. The oil leak could be the oil separator plate or indeed rear crank seal. Both of which need the gearbox out to repair.

FMJ

iTrader: (2)

As above if the oil is from the rear of the engine it will be rear crank seal or oil separator cover plate. Both are known leaky areas. Both are a PITA to do as its engine or gearbox out to fix them.

Tiny chance it could be the oil feed to turbo or oil return from turbo so check these first but it's doubtful that this would cover the whole rear underside.

Chances are if there is that much oil come out of the back of the engine the clutch could be contaminated too. If you do remove the gearbox or engine to fix the issue fit a new clutch while you are at it. They are cheap enough to buy and will be required at some point plus you avoid all the time or labour removing the engine/gearbox all over again.

As for the brakes its been covered all ready. Unless you have air in the system, a leak, or a knackered servo/master cylinder then you calipers are seized up. If they are you can sometimes free them but they will seize again so you are much better off replacing with refurbed or new calipers. Ideally with stainless pistons.

A lot of money to be spent there potentially... Did you buy the car like this? I am guessing you havn't been driving a car with brakes like that long? Please keep it off the road until at least the brake issue is sorted.

jimbobs

its not clapped out, its in almost mint condition barring the above faults! its a 97 with only 102k full history, cambelt all tensioners and water pump replaced 3k miles ago!

I asked for advice not for insults! im not stupid, there will be np nasty noises coming from the engine as it aint being used until iv sorted the faults mentiond!

it has 2 pots hence the reason I asked if it was worth buying quality discs and pads alone or wether I should put 4 pots on too!!

Thanks for the ONLY bit of usfull information regarding the turbo oil return pipes! I will check these

jimbobs

oil leek!
1 sump is wet through
2 doesn't seem to be loosing oil
3 sump plug tight n has new ring
4 will check oil lines from turbo


brakes
1 has 2 pots
" level correct, not sure if its correct type (how can I tell)
3 pistons all seem fine, sliders fine
4 discs and pads (discs mainly look foooked) im getting all new . Any advice on makes ect...?
5 master cylinder looks fine!


thanks for the help so far

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Swap the 2-pot brakes for Subaru 4-pot ones, then decent discs (Godspeed or AS Performance) and decent pads, (ask for advice from above as to what suits your driving style).

DO not buy cheap crap off ebay.

BUT: plenty calipers on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...ipers&_sacat=0

From £80 and refurb yourself (Godspeed sell a kit including stainless pistons), or £99 each brand new.

The two pot brakes should NEVER have been found on a performance car, cheap Jap crap. And I know...'cos mine had 'em!

The Trooper 1815

iTrader: (31)

Like alcazar I changed the two pots on my WRX RA for 4 pots purely for safety and confidence. If/When you change the brakes run through a good quality DOT4 or equivalent as a minimum but bleed it out of the rears as well to ensure it's through the complete system.

ICP sell the oil seperator seal kits and they are not too difficult to fit if you handy with spanners. If the oil is hot it will smear over a large area with out to much loss.

Onwards and upwards butty.

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

Bin the 2 pots like these guys have said. I did too. I also had a problem with an ABS tone ring that had corroded quite badly and was causing some weird brake behaviour like pulling to one side and so on. This happened with the 2 pots and the 4 pots (which have new stainless pistons). So, as a test I pulled the fuse for ABS and the random pulling stopped. Might be worth checking out too.

ossett2k2

iTrader: (9)

Mine on my TypeRA are 2 pot fronts,had problems with seized piston but braking was ok they just used to hold the car back a little,after unseizing a couple of times it just kept coming back,I bit the bullet and bought brand new 2 pots as 4 pots won't fit behind my wheels. I put new fluid,discs,pads and braided lines and now the brakes are spot on and are more than up to the job for good spirited driving.
If you have rubber brake lines then they can collapse when old,also fu fluid change can help if it's not been done for a while.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Your welcome.

jimbobs

;-)

jimbobs

cheers for all the advice guys, gearbox off, main seal and separator plate both need replacing!
BN 4 pots en route!
still usure about discs n pads, was going for drilled ngrooved but read a lot about drill cracking?

piehole1983

iTrader: (7)

And the only bit of useful advice was the oil return pipe?

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Again: ask either Ian Godney at Godspeed, or Alyn at AS Performance. Both sell decent quality kit, and will advise.

Buy decent grooved only discs, ask for advice about pads depending on your driving: track time, aggressive, etc etc.

jimbobs

lol NO re read the quote, I was speaking to "Ditch" The only bit of his comment that was usefull! All the other comments including your correct diagnosis were very helpful!

jimbobs

Cheers bud don't know how I missed that first time round