fl@ four

Hello! Having lusted over a Scooby for a number of years, I’ve finally decided to take the plunge into Impreza ownership. Apologies if my questions are raised on a regular basis, I’m a complete noob to this forum and having looked through the sticky content and tried some searches, I still have some gaps.

I’ve searched around for a buyers guide but didn’t come across anything other than the one posted here. I’ve got my eye set on a blobeye STI, are there any common gremlins or nuances that I should be wary of?

Although I’m fairly handy with a spanner, I’d favour reliability over something which is more track oriented, so I’m leaning towards a low mileage STI with PPP and no further mods. However, are there common upgrades that are widely recommended?

Thanks in advance and looking forward to being part of the community!

Carnut

Hi buddy, whats your budget?

If you've looked across this site you will probably be aware of the issues with the 2.5 so the obvious choice is a widetrack blob sti (2005 2.0 or import 2.0). If you prefer the hawkeye/hatch (2.5) there are ways round the reliability issues, ie forged pistons which can be factored into the price (2k-3k) or you can buy one that has already been done with out too much of a increase in price.

Subaru's require good fuel (v-power etc) and benefit from recent and good oil changes so above all, try and get a car owned by a enthusiast with lots of paper work. The for sale section on here can often have good cars, either way if you see something you're interested in then post a link of said car and SN is normally more than happy to help and have a look over the car.

P.s DON'T BUY FROM CHESHIRE PERFORMANCE

fl@ four

Thanks for the Cheshire Performance heads up, looking at some previous posts they definitely sound like one to avoid!

Yeah, I'd been leaning towards the 2.0 as this seems to be the pick of the two engines. Also didn't realise until now that it was just the 2005 that had DCCD, this seems like a pretty trick option to have. Can the DCCD be problematic and more costly that those without, or is it something generally well regarded?

Still figuring out the numbers, I just had an insurance quote from adrian flux that was a little more than I was expecting, so that changes things somewhat.

Cheers

GH80

From reading common problems seem to be knocking rear shocks.

However I have had the following on 2005 sti:
1. Back plates for rear brakes rusting & swollen, causing grinding when cornering.
2. Rusting around top of front windscreen rubber.
3. Parasitic battery drain, battery lasts for about a week at best.
4. Poor cold start running (helped by refitting standard re-circ dump valve & resetting ecu)

PPP is OK but I hear not many make the power claims when put on the rollers, better off with a custom remap from a reputable tuner. Avoid cars with decat exhausts, vta dump valves, front mount intercoolers which have NOT been remapped. Cars need regular oil changes with decent oil and minimum 97 octane fuel.

MATT93

Some of the older JDM models also have DCCD

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

Might sound obvious but I always tell newbs to make sure there is plenty of meat on the tyres and brakes as well as the cambelt being up to date, reason being there's over a grand in that little list if they all want doing at once.

Other thing to be aware of on blobs is a bit of rust, front subframes, boot lid under the spoiler, front screen and the rear arches are starting to go on some less well cared for cars, also check the boot floor area for signs of water ingress.

Another thing to watch out for on non dccd cars is the gears crunching at high rpm,if it does factor in a £600 rebuild + remove and refit and probably a new clutch while it's out, as STI's tend to go through one around every 60k ish.

There is also the Front brakes that tend to have seized bolts that will need to be heli-coiled and new bolts fitted, but you won't know that until you come to change the pads.

Apart from that lot they are fine.

fl@ four

Thanks both!

I wasn't aware of the PPP figure debate. It looks like they hold their value more, but swings and roundabouts I guess. Good to know though, I probably won't value that is dearly now.

fl@ four

cheers, Ditch

Bean592

I have heard that some of the PPP Scoobs not making the clamed power figures but there are good ones out there that do, mine ran a healthy 315BHP completely Standard PPP but I do hear they can go a little wayward over time so regular RR runs (say every 18 month to 2 years) to keep an eye on things is what I'd reccomend and a reputable mapper if modyfying. Also as above be wary of modifyed non mapped cars as these can be problematic, buying from an enthusiast is usually a safe option but there are still good ones out there owned by people not into computers, good luck with the search

Jon

Norman Dog

iTrader: (1)

I have a RR printout of 316BHP for mine when I bought it, still feels like it needs more though.

I have also heard of many Scoobs making nowhere near as well.

fat-thomas

iTrader: (4)

I thought the 2.5 was fine according to you...

GH80

Is this the syncro problem? Do DCCD cars not suffer this fault?

PS I haven't had mine RR'd, but seems to make the acceleration claims from the PPP performance stats.

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

No the dccd cars have the strongest box and yes it is something to do with the syncros, I forget what the part is called that needs to be changed to the same as newer boxes, but once done they are just as strong and good for circa 600bhp and more apparently, but people have broken them so not completely bomb proof.

P.s, my Blob Wagon PPP makes somewhere around the claimed power too, I'm starting to think PPP not making the power is another Internet myth, possibly propagated by those with an interest in selling parts and re-maps back in the early days.

One thing I will say is the PPP maps (on Blobs) might not make the same power as some mappers can get but it is a safe map that won't make your engine self destruct a few thousand miles down the road to be met by a shrug of the shoulders and a raping of your wallet.

Custom maps not worth the risk on a WRX and £600+ for 10bhp is not good value, slightly different on an STI as they will produce 30/40 bhp more over PPP, if the car is totally standard I personally would still opt for PPP because it's so cheap and easy to do these days.

But it's horses for courses and I'm not a power hungry modder, or into straight line speed, I'm more into handling, lines and late braking.

DAN@ADRIAN FLUX

Hi and welcome,
If you'd like to private message me your details I'd be happy to take a look at your details and see if there is anything further we can do with the insurance.
Regards,
Dan.

BoozyDave

iTrader: (8)

what's the difference in risk between remapping a WRX and an STI????

WRX std power = 225bhp, custom remap = 270-290bhp. so 45-65 bhp increase

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

WRX PPP gives ish 260bhp for a couple of hoses centre de-cat and a zero cost re-flash of your ecu.

Ecutec Re-map from a pro mapper will cost £600+ including dyno time or £400 ish open source, for ish 10/15 bhp more than the PPP has to offer for peanuts, as in max £150.

Standard STI is a little different as you go fro 260bhp to 330/340bhp engine and gearbox can take it no problem so no real risk for a significant gain and worth the mapping costs imo.

BoozyDave

iTrader: (8)

How come you are comparing WRX PPP and standard STI?

The OP said STI with PPP, you said WRX and didn't mention PPP

what is the difference in risk?????

ditchmyster

iTrader: (7)

I think your missing my point pal, read everything I have written again.

WRXrowdy

iTrader: (2)

Can you elaborate on this?
Since I changed rear brake pads and discs a couple of weekends ago I get a grinding noise if I go quite quick around a right hander.
Noise sounds like a cross between tyre rubbing and brakes metal on metal.
Thought it may be a bearing but now you mention this I am starting to think that might be the problem.

Norman Dog

iTrader: (1)

A remapped WRX @270-290BHP should run with no problems at all.
Mine did anyway.

Haven't remapped the STi yet, but it's on the cards when I get the funds together.

gregwill

iTrader: (1)

I had similar issue a while ago found out it was the back plate hitting the rear disc when doing a sharp right corner easy fix !!!

WRXrowdy

iTrader: (2)

Cool, thanks bud

sovietspybob

iTrader: (3)

2005 STi with DCCD, all the benefits of 15 years of impreza's before they buggered it all up by fitting the wrong engine all cars thereafter :P

I've got mine for sale here at the moment

fl@ four

Thanks all for the additional info, all very helpful.

Other than the obvious styling, it looks like you get more bang for your buck with the bug-eye and from what I can tell there isn't a vast amount of difference between the two. Is that right?

What do you guys think of this motor?

http://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/subaru/impreza-sti/subaru-impreza-44s-wrx-sti-type-uk-prodrive-style------2002/3055616