ticky

It’s been some time now that I always wanted to fit the later facelift dash into my pre96 model year car.
So after helping a friend find a gearbox I ended up with a complete 98sti dash, door cards etc for myself.
My car is a 94 wagon built up from a bare shell using my old 95sti saloon parts.
After a good 6 months last year I completed all the work so that the car was road legal, mot & taxed.

I thought I would post this up as there is hardly any info on what is really involved in fitting the later facelift dash into a pre97classic.
I should have taken pictures along the way but I was working against time (daylight hours on my drive)

Having source nearly all the dash parts from a 98sti, I contacted various companies to see if they would fit & wire in the new dash. After an estimate quote of £1000 to £1500, I decided to do it myself.


Door card swap.

I will start with the door cards.
Later shape parts required:
Door Card
Window switches
Door lever
Plastic door lever trim
Door card support bracket (this is fitted behind the door card & fitted to the actual door.
Plastic square tab (1 for each door) Once removed they reveal 1 of the bolts/screw that holds the door card to the support bracket. The other bolt is hidden under the window switch.

I started with the rear door cards first.
Remove the old door card & metal cup handle bracket & replace with the later type bracket. Then remove old door lever & replace with the later style one.
I then checked the later window switch connector it was the same shape as the old type. The only difference was the colour coding for the wires. After studying the wiring diagram. I did not need to cut anything just plug it in. The 2 motor wires needed swapping around with each other as they were different. I decided to leave the motor wire swapping continue & test.
Once I pressed down on the rear switch the window went down, press up & the window goes up, great. Now a quick test using the main driver door window switches (old door card). Press down & nothing (window is aleady up), press up & the rear window goes down. So it was working but opposite function.
I continued with all 3 passenger door cards leaving the wires alone & just plug in.

The later driver door window switch & connector is different, so this needed wiring into the window loom. Once all done & tested everything worked fine as it normally does. Up for up & down for down, that was using passenger switches & main driver door switch.
BUT the auto function on the driver window did not work. It was getting late & dark (on my drive) so decided to call it a day. So I press the alarm fob to find that now all 4 windows start to roll down. That’s the Clifford auto window closer (****)
So back out working with a lamp, windows rolled up & switches disconnected & activate the alarm. That’s sorted that out for tonight.
The next day I swapped the 2 motor power wires around, this then made the switches work to an opposite function. Up for down & down for up. But now the driver door auto function works. Press the alarm fob with windows slightly open & yes windows start to roll up.
I did try different methods with the wiring swap but it did not work so left it as that.
I will have to get use to it. Until I can source the correct 98sti wiring diagrams.

Just need 2 square plastic tabs to finish the doors off, tried the main dealers but they cannot help without the correct year vin no/model year?
Oh and 2 speakers grills which I haven’t made yet as my front door cards are off a ex demo sound car (support 2 x 17cm speakers in each door card)

The next stage
Sti V4 Speedo clocks

After reading a thread on rs25.com I found that some guys on there have fitted the sti speedo to there subaru rs.
This is the speedo clock with the big rev counter in the middle.

As I did not have the wiring diagram I had to trace all the wires at the back of the speedo & refer to the pins outs from here rs25.com

JDM V4 Harness: This is what the connector leads to on the gauge cluster
A1> BlU/WHT high beam indicator
A2> RED high beam indicator
A3> YEL door open, interior lights
A4> LTGRN ! symbol for parking brake
A5> RED/WHT CEL (now in red)
A6> BLK/WHT battery symbol/light
A7> BLK/BLU seat belt symbol/light
A8> GRN/WHT oil drip symbol/light
A9> BLU/RED open door warning/light
A10> WHT vehicle speed sensor 2
A11> GRN/BLK vehicle speed signal wire
A12> BLK vehicle speed sensor 2
A13> VIO illumination


B1> YEL/BLK clock
B2> GRN/WHT temp gauge
B3> BLK/RED temp gauge
B4> BLK ground
B5> -------
B6> BLK/GRN left turn indicator
B7> GRN/RED airbag symbol/light
B8> BLU/ORG open door warning indicator/light
B9> LTGRN/BLK right turn indicator
B10> GRN tach signal


C1> ORG/WHT illumination
C2> BRN/WHT fuel gauge
C3> RED/BLK low fuel warning light
C4> YEL/GRN hot "thing" warning light
C5> LTGRN/YEL ABS indicator/light
C6> BLU/YEL snow flake "HOLD" warning/indicator
C7> PNK ???
C8> WHT/BLK small lightbulb housing, with no transparent indicator
C9> YEL/RED I/C Spray indicator light
C10> BRN/RED small lightbulb housing, with no transparent indicator
C11> ------ small lightbulb housing, with no transparent indicator
C12> WHT/GRN temp gauge
C13> YEL/GRN clock

I had a spare dash loom (this loom is small & plugs into the speedo, heater controls & switches etc) so I used that to do the basic wiring & trail testing etc.
I cut & temporarily joined the wires to the new sti clocks.
I then plugged the loom with the new speedo into my cars fuse box. My old dash & speedo are still fitted.
Everything worked except the speedo; I will do that once I fit the dash complete & change the speed sensor in the gearbox.

I will add more later.

Jay m A

iTrader: (2)

Just stumbled on this, great info there.

I'm going to be replacing my dash soon on a MY95, but like for like since my current one is badly faded.

If you could make step by step notes on how you remove your dash it would be most appreciated

stevem2k

angle grinder ?

ticky

Ive got a non faded dash for sale if your interested? lol

Just a few tips which will help, the rest is fairly simple.

Remove the plastic trim panel which is on the top of the dash (at the front just by the screen. There should be 2 circular type clips which hold it in place. I normally use a small flat head screw driver to get these out. Once the plastic trim has been removed you should be able to see 2 X 10mm bolts which hold the centre part of the dash to the bulkhead.

Remove the plastic trim panel above the foot pedals & undo the 2 X 12mm bolts for the steering column, the steering wheel then can be dropped down to help get the dash off.

Remove radio, centre console etc
Remove speedo clock.
Remove glove box.
You will have to unclip most of the dash loom electrical connectors.
I think there are 3 earth points for the dash loom,these are bolted near the centre console area (behind the radio etc.) Undo these too.

Once you have managed to undo nuts, bolts & electrical connectors the dash should pull off but note that most of the dash loom is wrapped & routes around the air vent piping, the loom is attached to the back of the dash with clips & screws.
I pulled the dash slightly out, then looked at the back of the dash from outside through the screen. This way I could see were the loom was fixed & undone any screws etc.

Just be careful pulling the dash off, scratches to other trim panels or even damaging the dash etc. Get a friend to help.

I cannot remember where every single nut & bolt is but some of the above should help you at least.


I will added more detail to this thread when I have some spare time.

Ticky

gongeuzler

Definatly some good info, thanks! Ill be attempting this as soon as I can find sedan interior. So hard to find, and expensive as well!

SJH

Im looking for a newer dash for my 96 classic do you know where i can get one from.is it a case of phoneing all the breakers and is there any way of fitting a newer electric speedo.mileometer like in 97 onwards
cheers
sjh

ticky

Try using the search function " breakers" this should help you eventually find a list of various breakers.

You will need more than just the later dash as in parts wise.

Switches, heater controls, electronic speed sensor (gearbox), wiring loom/connectors, heater blower motor, servos, later door cards to match the dash. The list will go on.

Ticky

SJH

cheers
sjh