Eunos Mk1 Head Unit Problem
#1
Eunos Mk1 Head Unit Problem
When I go the Eunos it came with a JDM Pioneer unit with Bluetooth, hands free mic fitted and a band expander but it was quite old and needed a change.
I bought the ISO loom adaptor and fitted it but when I installed the Sony head unit the only thing that works is the power antennae lift when the ignition is on!
I have check the fuses and the fuse on the head unit but no joy.
Any ideas please?
I bought the ISO loom adaptor and fitted it but when I installed the Sony head unit the only thing that works is the power antennae lift when the ignition is on!
I have check the fuses and the fuse on the head unit but no joy.
Any ideas please?
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Get yourself a cheap 12v tester and check the connector from the car side and see which is the power, earth and ignition as they are quite often different on imports when compared to standard ISO, you could also do this using the old head unit by comparing the connections on your new unit, also check that the old one still works, which will tell you if you have power or not, there could also be a separate earth for the head unit, and the reason the antenna is the only thing that works is it's earthed by the body of the car, but the fact it goes up tells me you have power to the unit as it goes through it to power the antenna when the head unit is switched on, unless ignition and power antenna are wrong way round, and you should get an earth to the head unit from the antenna, so most likely the connections don't correspond from car loom to ISO or ISO to new head unit.
let me know how you get on.
P.S you can check if the ignition and antenna are wrong way round by leaving head unit off and turning ignition on, if antenna goes up on ignition only then it's wrong, unless there is a separate switch for antenna only.
let me know how you get on.
P.S you can check if the ignition and antenna are wrong way round by leaving head unit off and turning ignition on, if antenna goes up on ignition only then it's wrong, unless there is a separate switch for antenna only.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 29 July 2012 at 02:32 PM.
#4
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
Looks like it could be, but if you plug the antenna into the head unit it should give it an earth, or just touch the casing to ground, ie the metal bracket i can see should do it, but yes it won't help if there is no earth direct to the unit and it could cause poor reception on the radio, though like i said before if the antenna goes up it has an earth.
does the old head unit still work?
does the old head unit still work?
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (7)
you need to compare the cables coming from the old stereo with the iso lead and that will tell you whats wrong.
Red = ignition
black = earth
yellow = battery positive
orange = lights
blue = auxilary positive that comes live when ignition turned on, it's to switch an amplifier on for subs ect but can be used for auto antenna.
EDIT: touch the spaded black wire to ground and see if that gives it life.
Red = ignition
black = earth
yellow = battery positive
orange = lights
blue = auxilary positive that comes live when ignition turned on, it's to switch an amplifier on for subs ect but can be used for auto antenna.
EDIT: touch the spaded black wire to ground and see if that gives it life.
Last edited by ditchmyster; 29 July 2012 at 09:54 PM.
#6
Did a bit of jiggery pockery and cable swapping.
I found an earth and connected it to the black cable on the harness. The red cable was plugged into the yellow twin female and BINGO power! Sadly, the power is permanent and the Antennae does not power up from the car, but not bothered about the radio really .
How can I get a switched live to operate on the ignition?
I found an earth and connected it to the black cable on the harness. The red cable was plugged into the yellow twin female and BINGO power! Sadly, the power is permanent and the Antennae does not power up from the car, but not bothered about the radio really .
How can I get a switched live to operate on the ignition?
#7
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Usually there's both a permanent and a switched live in the loom. Having some power available even when the unit is off prevents losing presets etc. Assuming no backup battery.
If all else fails run your own wire from the B+ terminal, either from near the steering column end or from the fusebox end.
If all else fails run your own wire from the B+ terminal, either from near the steering column end or from the fusebox end.
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Sometimes you need to swap the yellow wire with the red. As some manufacturers get them the wrong way round...thats why they have bullet connectors on to make it quicker/easier.
The result is usually the radio stays on, or forgets its memory when switched off.
The correct wires must be there...otherwise the old radio wouldn't work, and I very much doubt its CAN bus operated
Also the blue wire from the radio typically has a current limit, sometimes it can't run enough juice to power an aerial motor (or even aerial amplifier ), in this case connect the blue wire from the ISO connector (NOT from the radio), to the switched ignition feed (once you've found it...which should be either the red or the yellow). The only issue then is the aerial will operate whenever the ignition is swicthed on, regardless if the radio is on or not.
The result is usually the radio stays on, or forgets its memory when switched off.
The correct wires must be there...otherwise the old radio wouldn't work, and I very much doubt its CAN bus operated
Also the blue wire from the radio typically has a current limit, sometimes it can't run enough juice to power an aerial motor (or even aerial amplifier ), in this case connect the blue wire from the ISO connector (NOT from the radio), to the switched ignition feed (once you've found it...which should be either the red or the yellow). The only issue then is the aerial will operate whenever the ignition is swicthed on, regardless if the radio is on or not.
Last edited by ALi-B; 02 August 2012 at 10:24 AM.
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