Killed the 500 !
#3
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Keep your eye on Discovery Turbo for repeats as they rebuilt one of these on wheeler dealers, quite entertaining, especially as Ed China couldn't fit behind the wheel!!
#5
Was the wife, just before the "Ronaldo" tunnel at the airport, luckily I was not far behind to push it out of the road as I swear some dosey pillock was going to shunt it back to Wilmslow, I reckon she buzzed it, will look at the telemetry from the ecu when I upload it to my pc
Got a spare engine but don't know if its any good, will dig it out and have a look and then decide.
Would be interested in the opinions of those with more engine skills than my limited ones, like what would have caused that, to me it looks like the valve snapped and the end bounced around and smashed the piston and head to bits, but why would a valve just snap like that, age, tappets to tight.
Luckily I haven't been doing anything on it recently as that would mean it was my fault as say, changing a wheel bearing or something to the suspicious female mind is enough to implicate me in its demise.
its a 67 btw Andy.
Got a spare engine but don't know if its any good, will dig it out and have a look and then decide.
Would be interested in the opinions of those with more engine skills than my limited ones, like what would have caused that, to me it looks like the valve snapped and the end bounced around and smashed the piston and head to bits, but why would a valve just snap like that, age, tappets to tight.
Luckily I haven't been doing anything on it recently as that would mean it was my fault as say, changing a wheel bearing or something to the suspicious female mind is enough to implicate me in its demise.
its a 67 btw Andy.
Last edited by J4CKO; 05 June 2011 at 05:30 PM.
#7
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Oh dear: This is just a random guess, but I think it dropped a valve.
Now, I'm not saying your missus engaged 1st gear instead of 3rd gear on a downchange, so I 'll speculate a dodgy valve srping, or seized guide/lifter? Or did a valve seat fall out? (Jags used to be terrible for this if ran with incorrect ignition timing causing them to overheat).
Didn't realise they were parallel twins (thought they were flat twins like the 2CV). Does the cooling fan actually blow air into the air filter box (bit like a supercharger) or does it just utilise the same housing?
How about squeezing in a Norton Comando 850 engine in instead...good for around 60-70bhp
Now, I'm not saying your missus engaged 1st gear instead of 3rd gear on a downchange, so I 'll speculate a dodgy valve srping, or seized guide/lifter? Or did a valve seat fall out? (Jags used to be terrible for this if ran with incorrect ignition timing causing them to overheat).
Didn't realise they were parallel twins (thought they were flat twins like the 2CV). Does the cooling fan actually blow air into the air filter box (bit like a supercharger) or does it just utilise the same housing?
How about squeezing in a Norton Comando 850 engine in instead...good for around 60-70bhp
Last edited by ALi-B; 05 June 2011 at 05:30 PM.
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#8
Ali, there is a big fan driven off the same belt as the dynamo that draws air from the vents at the bottom of the screen and this is also used to blow through the carb, dont think it acts as anything other than atmospheric pressure cos it aint very fast !
I think really it needs another 10 bhp and no more as the brakes, steering and suspensions are rubbish, just enough to make it so it keeps up with the traffic and tackles hills a bit better, anything more would require uprating everything else.
I think really it needs another 10 bhp and no more as the brakes, steering and suspensions are rubbish, just enough to make it so it keeps up with the traffic and tackles hills a bit better, anything more would require uprating everything else.
#11
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I just seem to recall seeing you in the igloo pics, and you looked very tall.
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#18
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glad to see you knew to leave the driveshafts in the gearbox...... I removed them when fitting a clutch in one many years ago as an apprentice...... the diff promptly dropped into the bottom of the gearbox
#25
Certainly looks like the valve broke and did all the damage after it fell into the cylinder. I have seen one or two like that in the odd racing engine. Would not have expected that in that engine though.
Try to persuade her to change up before 14K revs!
Les
Try to persuade her to change up before 14K revs!
Les
#26
Going to pick up the spare engine tonight and see what its like, fingers crossed, any pointers on assessing an engine without going to the trouble of fitting it ?
Hoping its a usable one taken out due to an upgrade to a 126 engine, not been run for years so will pop some oil down the bores and see if it turns over.
Hoping its a usable one taken out due to an upgrade to a 126 engine, not been run for years so will pop some oil down the bores and see if it turns over.
#27
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There are a few things, just depends on how invasive you want to be:
Checking the compressions is always a good indentifer of the condtiion of the top end and rings/pistons. Can be done on the floor so long as the starter motor is fitted and the engine has oil in it (check with full throttle). Don't know what PSI you should see as it depends on the compression ratio, but generally speaking for most engines both cylinders should be about 10psi of each other 20psi max, and ideally above 120psi. 100psi would be a bare minimum.
If you can take the sump off and remove a bearing cap, it'll give a good indication of bottom end wear (just make sure you have a good quality torque wrench and settings data before attempting). Should be nice white metal (assuming white metal bearings). Any copper showing will be wear, and dull steel is very bad. The odd scratch or pitting down to the copper is acceptable, but if its deep or lots of them then it maybe a witness to debris damage from either a 'dirty' rebuild following a component failure or poor oil filtration.
Also pull and push on the crack pulley or flywheel to feel for any endfloat movement - should be easy enough to feel any play on a engine of this size. Too much will cause extra wear on big end bearings and pistons.
Checking the compressions is always a good indentifer of the condtiion of the top end and rings/pistons. Can be done on the floor so long as the starter motor is fitted and the engine has oil in it (check with full throttle). Don't know what PSI you should see as it depends on the compression ratio, but generally speaking for most engines both cylinders should be about 10psi of each other 20psi max, and ideally above 120psi. 100psi would be a bare minimum.
If you can take the sump off and remove a bearing cap, it'll give a good indication of bottom end wear (just make sure you have a good quality torque wrench and settings data before attempting). Should be nice white metal (assuming white metal bearings). Any copper showing will be wear, and dull steel is very bad. The odd scratch or pitting down to the copper is acceptable, but if its deep or lots of them then it maybe a witness to debris damage from either a 'dirty' rebuild following a component failure or poor oil filtration.
Also pull and push on the crack pulley or flywheel to feel for any endfloat movement - should be easy enough to feel any play on a engine of this size. Too much will cause extra wear on big end bearings and pistons.
Last edited by ALi-B; 06 June 2011 at 01:55 PM.
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Was the wife, just before the "Ronaldo" tunnel at the airport, luckily I was not far behind to push it out of the road as I swear some dosey pillock was going to shunt it back to Wilmslow, I reckon she buzzed it, will look at the telemetry from the ecu when I upload it to my pc
Got a spare engine but don't know if its any good, will dig it out and have a look and then decide.
Would be interested in the opinions of those with more engine skills than my limited ones, like what would have caused that, to me it looks like the valve snapped and the end bounced around and smashed the piston and head to bits, but why would a valve just snap like that, age, tappets to tight.
Luckily I haven't been doing anything on it recently as that would mean it was my fault as say, changing a wheel bearing or something to the suspicious female mind is enough to implicate me in its demise.
its a 67 btw Andy.
Got a spare engine but don't know if its any good, will dig it out and have a look and then decide.
Would be interested in the opinions of those with more engine skills than my limited ones, like what would have caused that, to me it looks like the valve snapped and the end bounced around and smashed the piston and head to bits, but why would a valve just snap like that, age, tappets to tight.
Luckily I haven't been doing anything on it recently as that would mean it was my fault as say, changing a wheel bearing or something to the suspicious female mind is enough to implicate me in its demise.
its a 67 btw Andy.
Get a 700cc from a 126BIS in there ...if you can find a space for a radiator and pipework.