EVO 4
16 December 2006, 06:02 PM
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EVO 4
All views and info will be appreciated! really after any common faults/problems buying guide etc found various evo info but not much that is 4 specific!
cheers
cheers
16 December 2006, 06:16 PM
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iv always been told to avoid evo 4's,,,and go for 5's instead,,
they get a problem with the clutch/gear box (dont no what they call it )
i aint told you much but hope it helps
stu
they get a problem with the clutch/gear box (dont no what they call it )
i aint told you much but hope it helps
stu
16 December 2006, 07:01 PM
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drivetrain is not much different 4onwards, you'll be thinking of the AYC system that does have its faults but even 9's have some issues...........
its the engine thats poor on that particular car, 5 onwards have far better reliability, etc.
my money would be on a newer (5 >) version...........
its the engine thats poor on that particular car, 5 onwards have far better reliability, etc.
my money would be on a newer (5 >) version...........
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17 December 2006, 09:57 AM
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so best avoiding then! lol
just been offered one with 360bhp from a mechanic my dad knows well! have been offered it very cheap and am tempted but hearing all the above views makes me wonder if i should or not!
just been offered one with 360bhp from a mechanic my dad knows well! have been offered it very cheap and am tempted but hearing all the above views makes me wonder if i should or not!
17 December 2006, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by acko
the evo 4 suffers with CRANK WALK.
stay away from the 4 and go for the 5 onwards, stronger engines all together.
hope this helps
stay away from the 4 and go for the 5 onwards, stronger engines all together.
hope this helps
17 December 2006, 05:07 PM
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If I remember correctly, Evo4s have a problem with crank end-float. End float is 'set' using a lead-indium bearing (similar to a big-end bearing): with Evo4s this wears and goes out of tolerance long before the other bearings have worn significantly. of course, I could be wrong...
Simon
Simon
17 December 2006, 10:32 PM
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well how cheap is cheap? and whats the general condition of the car!
im struggling to believe that all evo 4's will break on you due to engine failing! if its that cheap and the worse happens surley an engine rebuild would be an option!
evo 4 with recon engine will still be cheaper than an evo six and the evo6's engine is going to have done at least 60 thou!
if he is a mechanic surley he has looked after it well!
im struggling to believe that all evo 4's will break on you due to engine failing! if its that cheap and the worse happens surley an engine rebuild would be an option!
evo 4 with recon engine will still be cheaper than an evo six and the evo6's engine is going to have done at least 60 thou!
if he is a mechanic surley he has looked after it well!
18 December 2006, 11:50 AM
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the general condition of the car is good, its only done 65k miles and pulls like a train!
Ive been on the lancer register and there is no mention of 'crank walk' in the common evo problems????????
Ive been on the lancer register and there is no mention of 'crank walk' in the common evo problems????????
19 December 2006, 09:13 AM
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I get what everyone is saying about going for a V5 as i would prefer one as i think the 5 and 6 are by far the best evos! However, im looking at paying £5k for the 4 as opposed to paying prob £8.5+ for a good 5! are they really worth the difference????
19 December 2006, 09:43 AM
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I looked into this a few years ago, and despite the 5 looking heaps better, there where so many changes underneath that IMHO, its worth the extra cash without doubt.
19 December 2006, 03:08 PM
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Mate I have an E4 and love it to bits. Did have to replace the AYC diff for a Evo8 diff after a week of ownership but had no problems with crankwalk yet. If you do a search on the lancerregister there is loads of info on crankwalk which is basically what has been explained above. It seems to me to be a case of yes there are a number of cases of crankwalk on the Evo 1-4 but you dont hear about all the ones that are fine. If you are looking for more than 350bhp then go for a later e5/e6. However if you are satisfied with less than that and the E4 is sound go for it and spend the extra on mods, insurance and more than likely servicing!!! Mine now has Iridium plugs, full 3" HKS exhaust, HKS Racing Suction kit, E8 uprated actuator, Apexi Power FC and dawes device set to 1.4 bar. Should be running around 330bhp. Let me know if you need any further info.
Mike
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19 December 2006, 05:37 PM
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I have been there, bought an E4 blew the engine in no time, they are pish.
Buy a 5 or 6 and your good to go.
the engine in the 5 and 6 has some revisions, better cooling channels in the water jacket and better oil cooler,
also bigger turbo bla bla, avoid the evo 4 thats my advice, you'll see mine on the MLR I spent 10k on fixing it up waste of time, just buy a 6 and be done with it.
Buy a 5 or 6 and your good to go.
the engine in the 5 and 6 has some revisions, better cooling channels in the water jacket and better oil cooler,
also bigger turbo bla bla, avoid the evo 4 thats my advice, you'll see mine on the MLR I spent 10k on fixing it up waste of time, just buy a 6 and be done with it.
19 December 2006, 05:38 PM
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oh and you need to pry the bottom pulley against something to check for end float (crank walk) on the E4.
the only time id buy an E4 is if it is 100% totally standard, i.e never had cat off and never had an induction kit, thats what makes them run lean and pop.
the only time id buy an E4 is if it is 100% totally standard, i.e never had cat off and never had an induction kit, thats what makes them run lean and pop.
19 December 2006, 07:50 PM
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cheers for the info mike! the one i have been offered is meant to be 360bhp!!
so basically if the pulley has got any movement in it then crank walk is immenent??????
Originally Posted by bbigman2000
oh and you need to pry the bottom pulley against something to check for end float (crank walk) on the E4.
the only time id buy an E4 is if it is 100% totally standard, i.e never had cat off and never had an induction kit, thats what makes them run lean and pop.
the only time id buy an E4 is if it is 100% totally standard, i.e never had cat off and never had an induction kit, thats what makes them run lean and pop.
20 December 2006, 05:04 PM
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cheers guys! anymore info regarding servicing, inetervals, prices, cambelt changes etc etc??
also, with the above movement etc for the crank walk, if there is no movement, is there anything you can do to stop it happening in the future???
also, with the above movement etc for the crank walk, if there is no movement, is there anything you can do to stop it happening in the future???
Last edited by B9GLY; 20 December 2006 at 05:06 PM.
20 December 2006, 08:17 PM
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service required every 5000 miles
AYC servicing is essential as they can cause problems if not looked after.
cambelt and balance belt are easy to do for £250
very easy cars to work on being rally bred.
AYC servicing is essential as they can cause problems if not looked after.
cambelt and balance belt are easy to do for £250
very easy cars to work on being rally bred.
Last edited by bbigman2000; 20 December 2006 at 08:19 PM.
26 December 2006, 12:48 PM
#29
I had an Evo IV last year as a change from Subaru ownership, it was the biggest mistake I made.
My engine had really bad crankwalk (3mm crank movement) basically it would have run until the crank position sensor wore out.
On the Lancer Register I was advised not to increase the boost level above 1.2 bar with the standard internals.
There is also a design fault with the wiring circuit for the fuel pump relays which means on change over there is no voltage to the pump for a split second, there is a simple wiring mod to overcome this.
The standard brake calipers are poor, the rear diffs are made of cheese and they are pretty noisy in the cab with lots of vibrations and creaks that you will struggle to find.
I put an Evo V engine into mine with a Walbro fuel pump, Blitz boost controler and got it to 1.2 bar.
Timing belt is a pain as well, the balance shafts need to be properly aligned or it will vibrate like mad.
My engine had really bad crankwalk (3mm crank movement) basically it would have run until the crank position sensor wore out.
On the Lancer Register I was advised not to increase the boost level above 1.2 bar with the standard internals.
There is also a design fault with the wiring circuit for the fuel pump relays which means on change over there is no voltage to the pump for a split second, there is a simple wiring mod to overcome this.
The standard brake calipers are poor, the rear diffs are made of cheese and they are pretty noisy in the cab with lots of vibrations and creaks that you will struggle to find.
I put an Evo V engine into mine with a Walbro fuel pump, Blitz boost controler and got it to 1.2 bar.
Timing belt is a pain as well, the balance shafts need to be properly aligned or it will vibrate like mad.
26 December 2006, 01:06 PM
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old evo
Originally Posted by Lee D T
I had an Evo IV last year as a change from Subaru ownership, it was the biggest mistake I made.
My engine had really bad crankwalk (3mm crank movement) basically it would have run until the crank position sensor wore out.
On the Lancer Register I was advised not to increase the boost level above 1.2 bar with the standard internals.
There is also a design fault with the wiring circuit for the fuel pump relays which means on change over there is no voltage to the pump for a split second, there is a simple wiring mod to overcome this.
The standard brake calipers are poor, the rear diffs are made of cheese and they are pretty noisy in the cab with lots of vibrations and creaks that you will struggle to find.
I put an Evo V engine into mine with a Walbro fuel pump, Blitz boost controler and got it to 1.2 bar.
Timing belt is a pain as well, the balance shafts need to be properly aligned or it will vibrate like mad.
My engine had really bad crankwalk (3mm crank movement) basically it would have run until the crank position sensor wore out.
On the Lancer Register I was advised not to increase the boost level above 1.2 bar with the standard internals.
There is also a design fault with the wiring circuit for the fuel pump relays which means on change over there is no voltage to the pump for a split second, there is a simple wiring mod to overcome this.
The standard brake calipers are poor, the rear diffs are made of cheese and they are pretty noisy in the cab with lots of vibrations and creaks that you will struggle to find.
I put an Evo V engine into mine with a Walbro fuel pump, Blitz boost controler and got it to 1.2 bar.
Timing belt is a pain as well, the balance shafts need to be properly aligned or it will vibrate like mad.
