Saab turbo 93 cylinder head leak
#1
Saab turbo 93 cylinder head leak
Just after some sound opinions from the people who may know....
I have oil leaking at the back of the engine from the cylinder head. The Saab specialist told me that they need to re-torque the casing or something like that to stop the leak. If this doesnt work its a new head gasket. All makes sense.
My question is, will the leak (loosing a litre every 2-3 weeks) lessen the performance in any way ? Can it affect the turbo at all ? It is a 2.3l turbo engine. I assume the leak will reduce the engine pressure but I dont know the result..
There is plent of knowledge on the forum, any opinions ?
I have oil leaking at the back of the engine from the cylinder head. The Saab specialist told me that they need to re-torque the casing or something like that to stop the leak. If this doesnt work its a new head gasket. All makes sense.
My question is, will the leak (loosing a litre every 2-3 weeks) lessen the performance in any way ? Can it affect the turbo at all ? It is a 2.3l turbo engine. I assume the leak will reduce the engine pressure but I dont know the result..
There is plent of knowledge on the forum, any opinions ?
#2
http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93faqs...e+headbolts%29
There is a link on this page to the Saab dealer notice that describes the problem and details how to sort it.
Mines doing it as well, 2001 LPT, seeping a bit from the top right hand corner of the engine, more so when its warming up resulting on a plume of steam on a cold day until its up to tep, embrassing and smells disgusting but not the end of the world, its been doing it for ages, not loosing that much water and I am keeping it topped up until I get time to sort it (now I have diagnosed it, thought it was rad at first until I saw the seepage).
I wouldnt worry about it, you have spotted it and not boiled it to death, as long as you keep the coolant topped up (including the correct anti freeze) it should be ok. Also check there is no oil in the coolant or vice versa, mine isnt.
Mine is performing as well as it ever did, it's still quick enough to keep a Cooper S honest, so I dont think its affecting anything else, its basically the water jacket isnt watertight so it looses some water, loosing cylinder pressure would result in an over pressurised system, rough running, lack of performance etc so it seems that this problem simply affects the sealing of the water jacket to the outside world. I really dont think the turbo will be affected in any way unless it doesnt get coolant but you have that covered.
I think any reasonably competent DIYer could do it judging by the notes, I just need to get a torque wrench seeing as I usually borrow one, time to buy one I think. Failing that take the notes to your local mechanic, should be more than 40 or 50 quid to do it.
If it doesn't work then its either gasket or radweld !
There is a link on this page to the Saab dealer notice that describes the problem and details how to sort it.
Mines doing it as well, 2001 LPT, seeping a bit from the top right hand corner of the engine, more so when its warming up resulting on a plume of steam on a cold day until its up to tep, embrassing and smells disgusting but not the end of the world, its been doing it for ages, not loosing that much water and I am keeping it topped up until I get time to sort it (now I have diagnosed it, thought it was rad at first until I saw the seepage).
I wouldnt worry about it, you have spotted it and not boiled it to death, as long as you keep the coolant topped up (including the correct anti freeze) it should be ok. Also check there is no oil in the coolant or vice versa, mine isnt.
Mine is performing as well as it ever did, it's still quick enough to keep a Cooper S honest, so I dont think its affecting anything else, its basically the water jacket isnt watertight so it looses some water, loosing cylinder pressure would result in an over pressurised system, rough running, lack of performance etc so it seems that this problem simply affects the sealing of the water jacket to the outside world. I really dont think the turbo will be affected in any way unless it doesnt get coolant but you have that covered.
I think any reasonably competent DIYer could do it judging by the notes, I just need to get a torque wrench seeing as I usually borrow one, time to buy one I think. Failing that take the notes to your local mechanic, should be more than 40 or 50 quid to do it.
If it doesn't work then its either gasket or radweld !
Last edited by J4CKO; 09 November 2006 at 12:41 PM.
#5
My LPT isnt far off a CTR, had one spitting flames at me trying to pull away, the lad stopped at the roundabout and was surprised to see the placcy wheel disks when he was expecting an Aero or some Abbott tuning stickers !
Just dont try to follow one round a bend, Saab thoughtfully provide a steeting wheel just to house the stereo controls as it doesnt seem to have any connection to the front wheels.
I had a Mondeo which was a better car but the Saab engine is so much nicer.
Just dont try to follow one round a bend, Saab thoughtfully provide a steeting wheel just to house the stereo controls as it doesnt seem to have any connection to the front wheels.
I had a Mondeo which was a better car but the Saab engine is so much nicer.
#6
Yeah, I know the handling isnt the best but the power is imense. Its a Viggen with recovery kit etc... Had the same experience with a focus ST a few weeks ago, not much in it for speed, edged by a few car lenghts but at least I know the chances of parking next to another is next to none, plus the usual Saab refinements....
A friend of mine has a 9000 Lpt, there are things you can do do up the pressure apparantly?
A friend of mine has a 9000 Lpt, there are things you can do do up the pressure apparantly?
#7
I have thought of that but to be honest its only worth a couple of grand and I am not sure whether whats left of the clutch, gearbox and suspension could cope with the extra.
Plus, hoping to change it next year anyway.
If it was £200 to chip it I would of done it but its sort of £500 ish, too much to justify to the missus !
Plus, hoping to change it next year anyway.
If it was £200 to chip it I would of done it but its sort of £500 ish, too much to justify to the missus !
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#8
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'Just dont try to follow one round a bend, Saab thoughtfully provide a steeting wheel just to house the stereo controls as it doesnt seem to have any connection to the front wheels.'
Fairhurst: A viggen....very nice mate.
Fairhurst: A viggen....very nice mate.
#9
Just a quick update, re torqued the head tonight and several bolts were not what you would call tight, one had come undone completely !
Dead easy job, just as per the instructions, you need a star bit to tighten the head bolts so make sure you have one before you start.
Mines been put back together, thrapped mercilessly up the bypass and there is no steam anymore, still smells a bit of coolant but its all over the block and will need to burn off.
All done in an hour, go for it !
Dead easy job, just as per the instructions, you need a star bit to tighten the head bolts so make sure you have one before you start.
Mines been put back together, thrapped mercilessly up the bypass and there is no steam anymore, still smells a bit of coolant but its all over the block and will need to burn off.
All done in an hour, go for it !
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