Pug 106 cutting out - HELP!
07 October 2006, 10:20 PM
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Pug 106 cutting out - HELP!
I've just bought a Pub 106, which is a great little car except i wont go further than about 5-10 miles after which it just cuts out and is dead.
It will turn over but there is no life at all in the engine.
If you leave it 20 minutes or so it will start again and go for only a short distance i.e. another 5 miles and its kaput again.
its as if as soon as it gets warm the damn thing cuts out.
The AA man reckons it could be the coil pack but how would this affect it after it was warm.
Like i said it only happens after 5-10 miles.
Dont want to chuck loads of money at it as its not wort much.
Help!!!!
Cheers guys
It will turn over but there is no life at all in the engine.
If you leave it 20 minutes or so it will start again and go for only a short distance i.e. another 5 miles and its kaput again.
its as if as soon as it gets warm the damn thing cuts out.
The AA man reckons it could be the coil pack but how would this affect it after it was warm.
Like i said it only happens after 5-10 miles.
Dont want to chuck loads of money at it as its not wort much.
Help!!!!
Cheers guys
08 October 2006, 01:33 AM
#4
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All coils generate a lot of heat, the traditional types are contained in oil to keep them cool. When the insulation begins to break down the oil, once warm, will penetrate through to the windings and cause a short. thus stopping the car. Usually it's the LT side which degrades, so you shouldn't be finding big voltages coursing through your bodyshell, but it can still fry a battery
Whether the more modern multiple coil packs are of the same construction I couldn't tell you, but I do know that they do fail.
Whether the more modern multiple coil packs are of the same construction I couldn't tell you, but I do know that they do fail.
08 October 2006, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by CrisPDuk
All coils generate a lot of heat, the traditional types are contained in oil to keep them cool. When the insulation begins to break down the oil, once warm, will penetrate through to the windings and cause a short. thus stopping the car. Usually it's the LT side which degrades, so you shouldn't be finding big voltages coursing through your bodyshell, but it can still fry a battery
Whether the more modern multiple coil packs are of the same construction I couldn't tell you, but I do know that they do fail.
Whether the more modern multiple coil packs are of the same construction I couldn't tell you, but I do know that they do fail.
08 October 2006, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lightwave693
does it smell rich, petrolley when warm? sounds like a flooding problem.. is it injection? carb? i dont know bout these cars....
08 October 2006, 02:55 PM
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Does it cut out dead or gradually lose power?
Does it happen every time you drive it?
When you drive the car next if it does this again you could take an old plug with you and pull a plug lead off, put the old plug in and rest it on something metal (to earth) and see if you get a spark.
The only things that will stop an older type engine eg not ecu controlled is no spark, no fuel, no compression, and as no compression cannot come and go to that degree it must be no fuel or no spark.
One other idea could be that your fuel tank has blocked its breather pipe this can cause fuel starvation as the pump can only draw a set amount of fuel before the pressure(vacuum) in the tank becomes too great to draw more fuel, you can tell by removing the fuel cap and if you hear a large whoosh sound you may have this prob, if it does this leave the cap a little loose and see if it still does it.
HTH.
Does it happen every time you drive it?
When you drive the car next if it does this again you could take an old plug with you and pull a plug lead off, put the old plug in and rest it on something metal (to earth) and see if you get a spark.
The only things that will stop an older type engine eg not ecu controlled is no spark, no fuel, no compression, and as no compression cannot come and go to that degree it must be no fuel or no spark.
One other idea could be that your fuel tank has blocked its breather pipe this can cause fuel starvation as the pump can only draw a set amount of fuel before the pressure(vacuum) in the tank becomes too great to draw more fuel, you can tell by removing the fuel cap and if you hear a large whoosh sound you may have this prob, if it does this leave the cap a little loose and see if it still does it.
HTH.
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08 October 2006, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by WHEELSHOP0_0
as no compression cannot come and go to that degree.
The previous engine developed a crack in one of the heads. It would run fine if started from cold, but when the head expanded as it warmed up, the crack allowed the compression to vanish on all three cylinders on that side
08 October 2006, 08:33 PM
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I work at a pug dealership , what is the chassis num , dont need the numbers , only the letters starting off VF31 ???? so i know what engine is in it also the year . Is the engine management light on , if not and it cuts out check the double relay that is underneath the eng ecu on the o/s/f inner wing these can start to play up over time , again is it single point or multipoint injection ? also check resistance of eng speed sensor approx 350 ohms pins 1 and 2 of the sensor pin 3 i think is sheilding , again the green engine temp sensor may be faulty , depends on year and system when the fault is present you can disconnect the coolant sensor and the ecu will go into a limp home mode with a default engine temp of 60 Degrees c .
Really you best bet is to get any codes read out of the ecu or pcodes then should see whats the cause .
Really you best bet is to get any codes read out of the ecu or pcodes then should see whats the cause .
08 October 2006, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by scuba_doo
I work at a pug dealership , what is the chassis num , dont need the numbers , only the letters starting off VF31 ???? so i know what engine is in it also the year . Is the engine management light on , if not and it cuts out check the double relay that is underneath the eng ecu on the o/s/f inner wing these can start to play up over time , again is it single point or multipoint injection ? also check resistance of eng speed sensor approx 350 ohms pins 1 and 2 of the sensor pin 3 i think is sheilding , again the green engine temp sensor may be faulty , depends on year and system when the fault is present you can disconnect the coolant sensor and the ecu will go into a limp home mode with a default engine temp of 60 Degrees c .
Really you best bet is to get any codes read out of the ecu or pcodes then should see whats the cause .
Really you best bet is to get any codes read out of the ecu or pcodes then should see whats the cause .
I think its single point and a carb
does that sound right?It is a 1.1xr on a K plate so its knocking on a bit.
I just dont want to start chucking money at it without finding for definitely what it is.
Cheers
10 October 2006, 05:55 PM
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i had the exact same problem on a renault 19 . it was the coil cos when it warmed up the wires expand in the coil and one of them had a break thus causing the engine to cut out. pretty bloody scary when your doin 70+ on the motorway in the mornin
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