Locking Wheel Nut Stuck On
#1
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Locking Wheel Nut Stuck On
Morning All
A while back i posted up about getting some locking wheel nuts off that were rounded off. Managed to get 3 out of 4 off but the last one is on so tight it doesnt want to budge.
Its a mcgard type with the outer spinning ring. I got the rac to have a go with the dynomec tool but it seemed to tight to undo after.
Any ideas? Was thinking of chiselling the outer ring off and using one of those screw on remover tools, or blowtorch to softer things up a bit.
A while back i posted up about getting some locking wheel nuts off that were rounded off. Managed to get 3 out of 4 off but the last one is on so tight it doesnt want to budge.
Its a mcgard type with the outer spinning ring. I got the rac to have a go with the dynomec tool but it seemed to tight to undo after.
Any ideas? Was thinking of chiselling the outer ring off and using one of those screw on remover tools, or blowtorch to softer things up a bit.
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If you still have the key and its not damaged isn't it just a case of more strength needed, such as a massive breaker bar to get the leverage?
I don't thing chiseling the outer ring will work with the space you have between the wheel and the nut, you would hate to damage the wheel doing this.
I don't thing chiseling the outer ring will work with the space you have between the wheel and the nut, you would hate to damage the wheel doing this.
Last edited by scooby87; 30 May 2013 at 09:10 AM.
#4
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seems that every time i try and use the key it just pushes itself out of the nut and it doesnt budge. even had my dad leaning into me as i try and do it and it wont go.
#7
Give it a few smacks with a wide drift and a lump hammer.
If that does not work a little bit of heat - but mind your paint on the wheels.
The key is probably "slipping" due to wear on the edges at one point.
An impact gun might be worth a go too.
If that does not work a little bit of heat - but mind your paint on the wheels.
The key is probably "slipping" due to wear on the edges at one point.
An impact gun might be worth a go too.
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Cheers guys. Have got an air gun so will douse it wd40 and keep trying. There is a bit of space between the outer ring and the wheel so may try this, just really want to get the thing out.
Do you think heating it with a blow torch would help and then see if it comes off?. I have tried this with many bolts before and its worked.
Do you think heating it with a blow torch would help and then see if it comes off?. I have tried this with many bolts before and its worked.
#9
Dont use an impact gun if the key or stud is already worn and its slipping - will only make things worse.
Tighten the other studs up really tight to relieve some pressure on the stuck one.
Park the car next to a solid wall and use a scissors jack horizontally between the wall and the tool, using a breaker bar to undo it. The jack will help to prevent the tool slipping off.
If that fails, chisel off the slip-ring and hammer on an impact socket. It takes serious hammering - dont be afraid to welly it, and it will come off with a breaker bar.
Tighten the other studs up really tight to relieve some pressure on the stuck one.
Park the car next to a solid wall and use a scissors jack horizontally between the wall and the tool, using a breaker bar to undo it. The jack will help to prevent the tool slipping off.
If that fails, chisel off the slip-ring and hammer on an impact socket. It takes serious hammering - dont be afraid to welly it, and it will come off with a breaker bar.
#10
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sod the impact wrench, it won't get you anywhere.
A good quality (not sealey) hand impact socket driver, with a big lump hammer usually shifts them. (looks like this: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog )
The hand impact driver makes sure the socket is always pressed fully home onto the nut on every impact.
I use the same tool for lost wheel nut keys...accompanied with a suitably sized locking nut remover. Never fails...just needs brute force.
A good quality (not sealey) hand impact socket driver, with a big lump hammer usually shifts them. (looks like this: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog )
The hand impact driver makes sure the socket is always pressed fully home onto the nut on every impact.
I use the same tool for lost wheel nut keys...accompanied with a suitably sized locking nut remover. Never fails...just needs brute force.
Last edited by ALi-B; 30 May 2013 at 01:23 PM.
#11
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I also normally find an impact driver and a big hammer work but I echo what Ali-B says, don't use a Sealey one
Heat and oil will help, but be careful with a blow torch near the paintwork on the wheel.
Heat and oil will help, but be careful with a blow torch near the paintwork on the wheel.
#17
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also regarding WD40, so many people just spray in on a nut/bolt and then try immediately to undo etc
WD40 does not work by magic - it needs time, often 24hrs or more to penetrate
WD40 does not work by magic - it needs time, often 24hrs or more to penetrate
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leave the studs on but loosened slightly, im not talking about hammering it up the motorway
im talking like driving 6 feet then try again, if you just loosen the nuts the wheels not gonna fall off driving 6 feet
im talking like driving 6 feet then try again, if you just loosen the nuts the wheels not gonna fall off driving 6 feet
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#23
Morning All
A while back i posted up about getting some locking wheel nuts off that were rounded off. Managed to get 3 out of 4 off but the last one is on so tight it doesnt want to budge.
Its a mcgard type with the outer spinning ring. I got the rac to have a go with the dynomec tool but it seemed to tight to undo after.
Any ideas? Was thinking of chiselling the outer ring off and using one of those screw on remover tools, or blowtorch to softer things up a bit.
A while back i posted up about getting some locking wheel nuts off that were rounded off. Managed to get 3 out of 4 off but the last one is on so tight it doesnt want to budge.
Its a mcgard type with the outer spinning ring. I got the rac to have a go with the dynomec tool but it seemed to tight to undo after.
Any ideas? Was thinking of chiselling the outer ring off and using one of those screw on remover tools, or blowtorch to softer things up a bit.
#24
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i broke my key on a set of mcgard nuts the same as above a few years back, Snap on/Bluepoint do a hammer on socket with a left handed thread, Took my tyre guy 2 mins to get all 4 off
Similar to these ones...
Obviously the nuts are scrap after they have been taken off but IMO i wouldnt put a set of Mcgard ones back on to any car i own now.
Similar to these ones...
Obviously the nuts are scrap after they have been taken off but IMO i wouldnt put a set of Mcgard ones back on to any car i own now.
Last edited by The Pink Ninja; 14 June 2013 at 02:35 PM.
#25
Being serious for a sec if I have a problem nut on any application I will try and torque up any other nuts to balance the stresses, otherwise you are imposing unusual loads on the offending nut making it harder to get off.
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may try loosening them off tommorow with the exception of the locking one and drive a few feet. otherwise that place in reading may be a good shout.