Woodburner advice - setting and temp control.
#1
Woodburner advice - setting and temp control.
Just had a clearview woodburner put in. Could just do with a bit of help in getting it to pump out more heat.
I am setting it with a bit of newspaper, kindling and then logs on top. Its catching fire no problems, im using some properly dried logs.
There is a dampner on the front that when fully out obviously lets more air in and the fire rages like mad.
I have this pushed half in and getting a gemp of 165-170C, how do i get it higher as its not kicking out as much heat into the house as id like.
Any tips appreciated.
Chop
I am setting it with a bit of newspaper, kindling and then logs on top. Its catching fire no problems, im using some properly dried logs.
There is a dampner on the front that when fully out obviously lets more air in and the fire rages like mad.
I have this pushed half in and getting a gemp of 165-170C, how do i get it higher as its not kicking out as much heat into the house as id like.
Any tips appreciated.
Chop
#4
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You need to smother the flame by reducing airflow. Also types of wood burns differently, soft wood burns quick and high temp, hard wood generally slower and less heat. Having a wood burner is not like central heating, the temperature will swing a fair bit from hot to walking around the house naked
#5
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Has it got primary and secondary air controls? The primary feeds air in through the bottom - required for burning solid fuel like coal, the secondary feeds air in through the top this keeps the glass clean (air wash) and is all that's needed to burn wood.
With ours to light it I open up both the primary and secondary air vents, if it's not been used for a while first burn a few sheets of scrunched up newspaper to warm the flue. When that's gone start to build you fire, good bed of scrunched up newspaper with a good quantity of kindling on top. Light it and let it get properly going, you can leave the door ajar too for a bit of extra air. Once that's blazing away add a several bigger bits, close the door and let it get properly going. Depending how quickly it's burning down add a few more bits and close off the primary air supply completely. The flames should change from a furnace type roar to a more lazy style dancing over the top of your wood. Again leave it for a while and once it's fully up to operating temperature you can shut down the secondary air supply a bit to slow down the burn.
All you have to do now is keep it fed
As mentioned on another post a stove pipe thermometer is really handy to see if you are burning you stove too hard or not hard enough. You can get a magnetic one for a few £.
Also don't expect instant heat, this comes from the metal body of the stove and can take quite a while to heat up but once it does it'll be chucking out heat for ages even after the fire goes out.
Edited to add: As also mentioned what you are burning can also make a big difference. Softwood will burn fast and hot, hardwood slower and longer. Get it going with softwood then hardwood logs to keep it nicely blazing into the night and without having to get up so often to load it up again
With ours to light it I open up both the primary and secondary air vents, if it's not been used for a while first burn a few sheets of scrunched up newspaper to warm the flue. When that's gone start to build you fire, good bed of scrunched up newspaper with a good quantity of kindling on top. Light it and let it get properly going, you can leave the door ajar too for a bit of extra air. Once that's blazing away add a several bigger bits, close the door and let it get properly going. Depending how quickly it's burning down add a few more bits and close off the primary air supply completely. The flames should change from a furnace type roar to a more lazy style dancing over the top of your wood. Again leave it for a while and once it's fully up to operating temperature you can shut down the secondary air supply a bit to slow down the burn.
All you have to do now is keep it fed
As mentioned on another post a stove pipe thermometer is really handy to see if you are burning you stove too hard or not hard enough. You can get a magnetic one for a few £.
Also don't expect instant heat, this comes from the metal body of the stove and can take quite a while to heat up but once it does it'll be chucking out heat for ages even after the fire goes out.
Edited to add: As also mentioned what you are burning can also make a big difference. Softwood will burn fast and hot, hardwood slower and longer. Get it going with softwood then hardwood logs to keep it nicely blazing into the night and without having to get up so often to load it up again
Last edited by Coffin Dodger; 31 October 2011 at 06:24 PM.
#6
Thanks chaps.
I guess i was expecting a more instant heat but coffin dodger answers that point, i will just turn it on sooner. The temperature is rising by the minute to be fair.
It has got primary and secondary, understand now what they are for
Will see what happens later.
Chop
I guess i was expecting a more instant heat but coffin dodger answers that point, i will just turn it on sooner. The temperature is rising by the minute to be fair.
It has got primary and secondary, understand now what they are for
Will see what happens later.
Chop
#7
Also may be worth get an ecofan http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/__ec...=228459_228459 a lot of heat is trapped in the space above the fire, one of these wil push it out into the room. They are a bit expensive but needs no power other than the heat itself to spin.
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#9
Yep, it takes a while, but then you can't turn the damn thing down. I've seem us open the front door and lounge window - even in the middle of a freezing cold day - just to get a cooling breeze through the house once the stove's got to full temp. They're brilliant, and cheap to run.
#10
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Does it have a damper on the flue? Ifnot, one is worth having. Makes it even more controllable.
Two good tips, if you haven't done it already:
1. DO remove the firebars so as to buuild the fire on the base, but make sure it's OK so to do before going ahead. Hunter recommend it so long as you only burn wood.
2. DO NOT remove the ashes when it goes out, simply build on top. It WILL heat it all up and burn most iof it to dust. Removing it is a waste, makes it burn wood faster and produce LESS heat
Oh.........and you DO know that wood ash is good around fruit trees?
Two good tips, if you haven't done it already:
1. DO remove the firebars so as to buuild the fire on the base, but make sure it's OK so to do before going ahead. Hunter recommend it so long as you only burn wood.
2. DO NOT remove the ashes when it goes out, simply build on top. It WILL heat it all up and burn most iof it to dust. Removing it is a waste, makes it burn wood faster and produce LESS heat
Oh.........and you DO know that wood ash is good around fruit trees?
#12
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Both Apple and Walnut burn well, both with nice scents.
Cherry is good, but little scent. Peach is the same.
The first two were dropped branches, the trees being still alive. The second two were trees beyond fruiting.
Our two walnut trees in France gave us over 100lbs of walnuts this year!
Cherry is good, but little scent. Peach is the same.
The first two were dropped branches, the trees being still alive. The second two were trees beyond fruiting.
Our two walnut trees in France gave us over 100lbs of walnuts this year!
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