Low voltage halogens.......
#1
Low voltage halogens.......
.....anyone else have trouble?
I'm talking about the ones with two pins on the back of the lamp, which just plug into a sort of ceramic bulb holder/connector?
On mine, they seem to suffer the same fate as H2 bulbs: the heat from the bulb seems to destroy the tempering on the VERY WEAK springs in the ceramic connector, with the result that it loses it's grip on the pins, and starts arcing. Sometimes I can HEAR it.
Then, unchecked, the by now burnt, pins/springs lose contact and the lamp goes out.
Repair seems to be to emery up the pins, poke the springs a bit tighter, etc, but it's always temporary.
Does anyone else have the same trouble, and have you effected a permanent repair?
I did think of a pair of connectors from out of a small "chocolate bar" terminal block, minus the plastic, which would melt, with a wire in one end and screwed to the pins at the other?
I'm talking about the ones with two pins on the back of the lamp, which just plug into a sort of ceramic bulb holder/connector?
On mine, they seem to suffer the same fate as H2 bulbs: the heat from the bulb seems to destroy the tempering on the VERY WEAK springs in the ceramic connector, with the result that it loses it's grip on the pins, and starts arcing. Sometimes I can HEAR it.
Then, unchecked, the by now burnt, pins/springs lose contact and the lamp goes out.
Repair seems to be to emery up the pins, poke the springs a bit tighter, etc, but it's always temporary.
Does anyone else have the same trouble, and have you effected a permanent repair?
I did think of a pair of connectors from out of a small "chocolate bar" terminal block, minus the plastic, which would melt, with a wire in one end and screwed to the pins at the other?
#2
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I have had problems but not as bad as you describe. One 50w ceiling light seems to be faulty and stops working unless I push it into connector again. But you can get the ceramic bulb holder replacements with the two wires which are fairly easy to replace.
I get fed up with these lights as I have to waiver at the top of a ladder to access the ceiling lights and then need three hands to work on them. dl
I get fed up with these lights as I have to waiver at the top of a ladder to access the ceiling lights and then need three hands to work on them. dl
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LED's will produce some heat, perhaps not as much as halogens but if they are the high power ones needed for a similar light output to a 50W halogen then they will get pretty warm.
Only got 240V halogens at home (GU10) and thus far haven't had an issue. The bulb to wire connector is different though and probably better
Only got 240V halogens at home (GU10) and thus far haven't had an issue. The bulb to wire connector is different though and probably better
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We have 7 x 50W in the kitchen, and I wish I could find an acceptable low energy solution.
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All the ones that I've tried are only bright when you look directly into them. The light seems to get bored before it reaches the floor, you just get a small patch of acceptable illumination, they do not light the room like filament bulbs.
We have 7 x 50W in the kitchen, and I wish I could find an acceptable low energy solution.
We have 7 x 50W in the kitchen, and I wish I could find an acceptable low energy solution.
I'm just waiting for the price to come down, which it will in time, just look how cheap the normal low energy bulbs are now
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Not had any problems myself, although still waiting for the affordable LED replacement of equivalent light output to come along.
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I use some 240v GU10s in an office. They get bloody hot!!
You can get different beam angles but shops don't usually know this.
Much more expensive than the low voltage ones.
dl
You can get different beam angles but shops don't usually know this.
Much more expensive than the low voltage ones.
dl
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It could be your using the wrong bulb. Not all MR16s are the same.
Certain fittings must have "coolback" or "coolfit" MR16 bulbs; i.e (like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ligh.../sd3278/p56297)
Usually this is SELVs or IP55+ fittings as found in bathrooms, outside or in utility room (or whatever the sparky had in his van at the time ).
Must not be confused with "cool beam" MR16s which uses the light fitting as a heatsink. Normal off the shelf MR16s are neither- they radiate heat both front and rear (getting worse when the bulb ages as the reflective coating burns off).
I've opted for 35watt MR16 (coolback) in the bathroom; Can't tell the difference in brightness from the 50watt versions. The outdoor MR16s were replaced with 3watt warm-white Cree LED MR16s about 3 years ago .
Certain fittings must have "coolback" or "coolfit" MR16 bulbs; i.e (like this: http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Ligh.../sd3278/p56297)
Usually this is SELVs or IP55+ fittings as found in bathrooms, outside or in utility room (or whatever the sparky had in his van at the time ).
Must not be confused with "cool beam" MR16s which uses the light fitting as a heatsink. Normal off the shelf MR16s are neither- they radiate heat both front and rear (getting worse when the bulb ages as the reflective coating burns off).
I've opted for 35watt MR16 (coolback) in the bathroom; Can't tell the difference in brightness from the 50watt versions. The outdoor MR16s were replaced with 3watt warm-white Cree LED MR16s about 3 years ago .
Last edited by ALi-B; 07 October 2010 at 02:24 PM.
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I am sick to death of replacing the cr@ppy GU10 lamps every 2 months have 5 of them in a single stip in the kitchen and it is expensive to keep doing on a regular basis.
I m gonna order the LED replacements
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I had probs with the GU10's blowing . I have two rows of 4 bulbs, on the same circuit. I have substituted with 2 LED, and 2 halogen(50 watt), and have not had a problem for over a year.
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I'd go as far as saying that if you are going to use a dimmer for halogens it should definitely be the electronic / soft start variety. I have four rooms (so far) with halogen lights, all on soft start dimmers and not a single blown bulb.
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