Electronics Wizard required....
31 December 2001, 01:50 AM
#1
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If you have the sidelights on in my MR2, then flash at someone (say to let them out), the lights popup then have the annoying habit of staying up. This means you have to turn the lights off, then back to sidelights again to get them down - ANNOYING!!! [img]images/smilies/mad.gif[/img]
However I have found a mod where you just cut a wire under the bonnet in the popup control unit, then add a switch to the wire.
The thing is I would like the switch in the cockpit for ease of use (the popup thing does come in handy overnight when it is frosty - the lights stay up so dont get stuck).
Therefore anyone know which switch I need? I want one of the really small metal toggle switches (like you see in some car alarm/immob type things
)
However when I look at these in Maplin they have tiny spade connectors - am I OK to wire up a 12v wire to these small connectors?
DW
However I have found a mod where you just cut a wire under the bonnet in the popup control unit, then add a switch to the wire.
The thing is I would like the switch in the cockpit for ease of use (the popup thing does come in handy overnight when it is frosty - the lights stay up so dont get stuck).
Therefore anyone know which switch I need? I want one of the really small metal toggle switches (like you see in some car alarm/immob type things
)However when I look at these in Maplin they have tiny spade connectors - am I OK to wire up a 12v wire to these small connectors?
DW
31 December 2001, 02:08 AM
#2
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The switch will be alright for 12v. But its the current the switch can take thats the problem. If the wire powers the motor then I don't think that switch will cut the mustard. What is the current rating on the switch?
H
H
31 December 2001, 02:31 PM
#3
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HHxx - I think the wire just determines whether the lights stay up, rather than powering the actual hydraulics.
I will investigate some more today.
DW
[Edited by Dream Weaver - 12/31/2001 2:31:25 PM]
I will investigate some more today.
DW
[Edited by Dream Weaver - 12/31/2001 2:31:25 PM]
31 December 2001, 02:50 PM
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The key is how thick the wire is. If its very thin 1 or 2 mm the it will probably be just a control wire and almost any siwtch will do. If its more meaty say 3 to 4 mm you may need a beefier switch. As HHxx says check the current rating....
31 December 2001, 06:25 PM
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01 January 2002, 09:12 PM
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These are the switches I fancy, as they are nice and small (similar to the immobiliser ones).
I presume I am OK to solder these in to a 12V system????
DW
I presume I am OK to solder these in to a 12V system????
DW
02 January 2002, 02:48 PM
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I posted a reply but cant find it...
why not use a push to break switch.. Switch will be ok for 12v as will it be rated at 250v, if in doubt add a small inline fuse at about 1a or similar... if the fuse blows then you will need a relay.
David
why not use a push to break switch.. Switch will be ok for 12v as will it be rated at 250v, if in doubt add a small inline fuse at about 1a or similar... if the fuse blows then you will need a relay.
David
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