Manual chokes, how to use?
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Manual chokes, how to use?
Misses is learning in a crappy old fiesta with a manual choke & she is ademant she has to push it in all the way once it's started as she's been told it will damage the engine using it with choke out even thou it then runs like shyte & she nearly stalls it all the time (beyond the usual i mean lol)
Now when i had a 205 with manual choke as my 1st car i always used to run it with choke out till it was warmed up slowly feeding it in so it was always running nicely & not nearly stalling.
So whose correct & anyone got any links to or just confirmation of what is best practice when using yer olde manual choke?
Ta
Si
Now when i had a 205 with manual choke as my 1st car i always used to run it with choke out till it was warmed up slowly feeding it in so it was always running nicely & not nearly stalling.
So whose correct & anyone got any links to or just confirmation of what is best practice when using yer olde manual choke?
Ta
Si
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Full choke to start if it's cold, might not need full choke in the warmer months....
I'd say push it in a little when first started... a good ear would be able to tell how much choke is required.....
Should i would have thought be all the way in within a few miles.....
She should be thankful for syncromesh gears... my first car (1972 Fiat 500) had a crash box.... double de clutch everytime or hideous noises from the box......
I'd say push it in a little when first started... a good ear would be able to tell how much choke is required.....
Should i would have thought be all the way in within a few miles.....
She should be thankful for syncromesh gears... my first car (1972 Fiat 500) had a crash box.... double de clutch everytime or hideous noises from the box......
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She's probably only been told that because it almost guarantees she won't forget and drive all day with the choke out, which won't be good.
Your method of running the engine till it won't stall is correct, that after all is the whole idea of a choke.
Your method of running the engine till it won't stall is correct, that after all is the whole idea of a choke.
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Originally Posted by scooby_si
Now when i had a 205 with manual choke as my 1st car i always used to run it with choke out till it was warmed up slowly feeding it in so it was always running nicely & not nearly stalling.So whose correct & anyone got any links to or just confirmation of what is best practice when using yer olde manual choke?
Ta
Si
Ta
Si
I always understood that cars were the same tbh - only thing that would happen by leaving the choke out, is that it'd flood and stop, but I could be wrong.....
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#8
Ive had many cars with manual chokes, and all had varying starting regimes,
i one had my mate and his dad trying for 3 hours to bump start an onld car of mine with manual choke, i did it in 10 secs
they were pulling the choke out half way, i just pulled it right out, and bobs your.
Ive had a volvo that required half way, and then easing in as the revs rose,
and a volvo that needed it on full choke for a few minutes.
others have required no choke,
its one of those suck it and see scenarios
Mart
i one had my mate and his dad trying for 3 hours to bump start an onld car of mine with manual choke, i did it in 10 secs
they were pulling the choke out half way, i just pulled it right out, and bobs your.
Ive had a volvo that required half way, and then easing in as the revs rose,
and a volvo that needed it on full choke for a few minutes.
others have required no choke,
its one of those suck it and see scenarios
Mart
#9
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Don't forget to pump the accelerator twice before cranking to prime it
(accelerator pump).
And yeah push the choke **** back in to the point that engine idles and revs smoothly (around 1200-1500rpm if you have the luxuary of a revclock on that beast), but not stall or stutter when driving....and don't let it do its "dug dug dug" Subaru impression for too long
But it is as Mart says, suck it and see. It depends if some bodger who "thinks" they know how to tune carbs and set the fast idle linkages etc correctly has been tinkering under the bonnet and messing it all up.
(accelerator pump).
And yeah push the choke **** back in to the point that engine idles and revs smoothly (around 1200-1500rpm if you have the luxuary of a revclock on that beast), but not stall or stutter when driving....and don't let it do its "dug dug dug" Subaru impression for too long
But it is as Mart says, suck it and see. It depends if some bodger who "thinks" they know how to tune carbs and set the fast idle linkages etc correctly has been tinkering under the bonnet and messing it all up.
Last edited by ALi-B; 10 January 2006 at 11:45 PM.
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ahh , like my old mini where the cable wouldn't stay 'out'
Apply 3 clothes pegs to choke - start , remove 1 , temp gauge starts moving, remove 2nd peg, temp at 1/4 , remove last one
worked a treat
Steve
Apply 3 clothes pegs to choke - start , remove 1 , temp gauge starts moving, remove 2nd peg, temp at 1/4 , remove last one
worked a treat
Steve
#11
I used to have a mini that the choke wouldn't lock in place - you pulled it out it just shot straight back in. I ended up with 4 different sized bulldog clips for the varying degrees of choke required to get the thing going. Si - you should just have enough choke to keep it ticking over - around 800-100 revs on idle - as RON says - a good ear is all you need
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Originally Posted by ru'
On my first car I could use the choke for cruise control; steady 30mph with it out...
GB
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Manual chokes...............takes me back. Last car I had with a manual choke was a 1975 Dolomite Sprint Anything since had either an automatic choke or fuel injection. Mind you, a manual choke was preferable to most automatic chokes I've experienced As others have said, technique depends on the car as well as how hot/cold the engine/ambient temperature is.
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Err dont think I ever driven a car with a manual choke, and before you ask I'm 30 and I've driven a fair few cars !
Richard
Richard
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Originally Posted by rsarjantson
Err dont think I ever driven a car with a manual choke, and before you ask I'm 30 and I've driven a fair few cars !
Richard
Richard
However, my lawn mower has a manual choke. (Or hare and tortoise as the pictures show).
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My wife drives my 205 every day and even she can work the choke!! as said already just move it in as the temp rises
pushing it in right away can do just as much harm as leaving it out too long but all cars are different.
pushing it in right away can do just as much harm as leaving it out too long but all cars are different.
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Originally Posted by fast bloke
I used to have a mini that the choke wouldn't lock in place - you pulled it out it just shot straight back in. I ended up with 4 different sized bulldog clips for the varying degrees of choke required to get the thing going. Si - you should just have enough choke to keep it ticking over - around 800-100 revs on idle - as RON says - a good ear is all you need
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??
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Originally Posted by Diablo
LOL
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??
850cc's of pure adrenalin
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Originally Posted by Diablo
LOL
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??
LOL, my Mini's choke never locked in place properly so also had half a peg to slot in place
Had forgotten all about that
#28
Originally Posted by Diablo
LOL
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??
Did no one tell you with a mini you had to pull out and then turn the **** to get it to lock in place??