Chainsaws...
#1
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Chainsaws...
I just know this is going to turn in to a Stihl vs Husqvana battle on the scale of a scooby vs evo discussion, however...
We have an open fire and I'm pondering on getting a chainsaw for chopping up branches / trunks ready for splitting. It isn't going to get used a lot, a couple of major sessions a year to top up the log store I expect and so I'm not looking to spend a fortune of a pro-spec saw.
I've seen 14" Ryobi's going new on e-bay for about £80 or so, now the question is would I be better off going for something like this, or looking at a better quality saw second hand in this sort of price bracket. My fear is that a Stihl or such going for £80 is likely to have had a hard life.
Any opinions or suggestions of other makes to consider?
We have an open fire and I'm pondering on getting a chainsaw for chopping up branches / trunks ready for splitting. It isn't going to get used a lot, a couple of major sessions a year to top up the log store I expect and so I'm not looking to spend a fortune of a pro-spec saw.
I've seen 14" Ryobi's going new on e-bay for about £80 or so, now the question is would I be better off going for something like this, or looking at a better quality saw second hand in this sort of price bracket. My fear is that a Stihl or such going for £80 is likely to have had a hard life.
Any opinions or suggestions of other makes to consider?
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Originally Posted by Andy McCord
perhaps renting might be a better option?
#5
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do what i used to do when i had an open fire.
go into the woods with your hand bowsaw and a good pair of gloves.
hack away to your hearts content, drag the blooming things back home.
then I used a bench large mitre saw to chop them all up into manageble logs, into the wood store and hey presto ...
though it does depend on the size of the open fire, as mine was fairly small so anything really big wouldnt fit, nor could the mitre saw do really large branches.
oh and before anyone asks, it was all wood already on the floor..
no law about going into the woods with a chainsaw, though you might get a few comments from all the ramblers and dog walkers
go into the woods with your hand bowsaw and a good pair of gloves.
hack away to your hearts content, drag the blooming things back home.
then I used a bench large mitre saw to chop them all up into manageble logs, into the wood store and hey presto ...
though it does depend on the size of the open fire, as mine was fairly small so anything really big wouldnt fit, nor could the mitre saw do really large branches.
oh and before anyone asks, it was all wood already on the floor..
no law about going into the woods with a chainsaw, though you might get a few comments from all the ramblers and dog walkers
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Originally Posted by SwissTony
do what i used to do when i had an open fire.
go into the woods with your hand bowsaw and a good pair of gloves.
hack away to your hearts content, drag the blooming things back home.
then I used a bench large mitre saw to chop them all up into manageble logs, into the wood store and hey presto ...
though it does depend on the size of the open fire, as mine was fairly small so anything really big wouldnt fit, nor could the mitre saw do really large branches.
oh and before anyone asks, it was all wood already on the floor..
no law about going into the woods with a chainsaw, though you might get a few comments from all the ramblers and dog walkers
go into the woods with your hand bowsaw and a good pair of gloves.
hack away to your hearts content, drag the blooming things back home.
then I used a bench large mitre saw to chop them all up into manageble logs, into the wood store and hey presto ...
though it does depend on the size of the open fire, as mine was fairly small so anything really big wouldnt fit, nor could the mitre saw do really large branches.
oh and before anyone asks, it was all wood already on the floor..
no law about going into the woods with a chainsaw, though you might get a few comments from all the ramblers and dog walkers
I have a compound pull mitre saw that will cope with a fair width, about 14" or so, but depth will be the issue with a 10" blade. Plus I'm not sure I want to knacker my work bench up with soggy logs
Thanks for the suggestion though!
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Originally Posted by Poor Guy
if do go into the woods with the chainsaw though, dont forget your hockey masked for protection.
#9
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true, it is a ***...
but i actually moved my mitre saw outside and stuck it on top of a box.that way i could have loads of clearance for long branches and not mess up my shed.
and the depth issues was solved by cutting down as far as poss (or until the guard hit the branch) and then dropping the fecking branch on the ground. snaps everytime
Used to take me all afternoon to fill this up
but once it was done, it was worth it, lasted for ages(actually that depended on how cold my ex-wife felt )
and great excersise and fresh air
nothing like going into your local woods and getting close to nature....with a saw
but i actually moved my mitre saw outside and stuck it on top of a box.that way i could have loads of clearance for long branches and not mess up my shed.
and the depth issues was solved by cutting down as far as poss (or until the guard hit the branch) and then dropping the fecking branch on the ground. snaps everytime
Used to take me all afternoon to fill this up
but once it was done, it was worth it, lasted for ages(actually that depended on how cold my ex-wife felt )
and great excersise and fresh air
nothing like going into your local woods and getting close to nature....with a saw
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Originally Posted by SwissTony
nothing like going into your local woods and getting close to nature....with a saw
#12
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Dont **** about spending a fortune on a petrol saw - I was going to buy a Ryobi recently, just for chopping the odd conifer up for the fire. I priced it up and with the fuel mixing bottle, oil, fuel etc it came to about £170 all in, plus you then need to buy fuel when using it.
For chopping down and logging 5 conifers, and possibly a couple more next year this didnt seem like a good investment to me.
So during the B&Q sale I spent £40 on one of their Pro Power electric chainsaw, 18" bar, 2400w power or something like that.
Worked a treat, chopped the trees down and logged them no bother and it now sits in the shed until some more logging needed after Chrimbo
The purists will moan, but we're only logging small trees here FFS Dont go OTT on a full pro thing.
For chopping down and logging 5 conifers, and possibly a couple more next year this didnt seem like a good investment to me.
So during the B&Q sale I spent £40 on one of their Pro Power electric chainsaw, 18" bar, 2400w power or something like that.
Worked a treat, chopped the trees down and logged them no bother and it now sits in the shed until some more logging needed after Chrimbo
The purists will moan, but we're only logging small trees here FFS Dont go OTT on a full pro thing.
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Originally Posted by Dream Weaver
Dont **** about spending a fortune on a petrol saw - I was going to buy a Ryobi recently, just for chopping the odd conifer up for the fire. I priced it up and with the fuel mixing bottle, oil, fuel etc it came to about £170 all in, plus you then need to buy fuel when using it.
For chopping down and logging 5 conifers, and possibly a couple more next year this didnt seem like a good investment to me.
So during the B&Q sale I spent £40 on one of their Pro Power electric chainsaw, 18" bar, 2400w power or something like that.
Worked a treat, chopped the trees down and logged them no bother and it now sits in the shed until some more logging needed after Chrimbo
The purists will moan, but we're only logging small trees here FFS Dont go OTT on a full pro thing.
For chopping down and logging 5 conifers, and possibly a couple more next year this didnt seem like a good investment to me.
So during the B&Q sale I spent £40 on one of their Pro Power electric chainsaw, 18" bar, 2400w power or something like that.
Worked a treat, chopped the trees down and logged them no bother and it now sits in the shed until some more logging needed after Chrimbo
The purists will moan, but we're only logging small trees here FFS Dont go OTT on a full pro thing.
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Originally Posted by Dream Weaver
LOL, sorry ours was for the garden
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Originally Posted by Puff The Magic Wagon!
Get the right oil to start with & make sure that what you do get has a decent oil feed as u will spend ££ getting new chains & time cleaning things out otherwise...
Something cheap/cheerful like a 12" MacCulloch will do for what u want.
My baby
Something cheap/cheerful like a 12" MacCulloch will do for what u want.
My baby
Would you take the Mac over the Ryobi?
#18
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I have no experience of Ryobi but Macs I do & whilst nothing like the 20" Danarm that is still running after 35 years seem to be fine.
B&Q/Homebase are actually quite good places to get chainsaws from as u can abuse them then if they brake inside the (generous) warranty period, swap 'em out for new & repeat process
B&Q/Homebase are actually quite good places to get chainsaws from as u can abuse them then if they brake inside the (generous) warranty period, swap 'em out for new & repeat process
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Originally Posted by OllyK
Got a proper helmet and mesh visor
"here's Olly!"
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Originally Posted by jameswrx
No need for long extension cable...
Just buy a generator
Just buy a generator
I think I'll stick to the petrol chainsaw thanks!!
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I've got a Husqvarna and a Stihl and I reckon the Stihl is better but then it is brand new whereas the Husqvarna is five years old but I think that if you put two models of a similar vintage together you'd be hard put to pick one. The Stihl is lighter and far more economical so if its only light work you want it for, the chances are that a McCulloch (modern) would be man enough for the job given modern efficiencies etc.
Let us know how you get on if you go down this route.
Let us know how you get on if you go down this route.
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Originally Posted by Flatcapdriver
I've got a Husqvarna and a Stihl and I reckon the Stihl is better but then it is brand new whereas the Husqvarna is five years old but I think that if you put two models of a similar vintage together you'd be hard put to pick one. The Stihl is lighter and far more economical so if its only light work you want it for, the chances are that a McCulloch (modern) would be man enough for the job given modern efficiencies etc.
Let us know how you get on if you go down this route.
Let us know how you get on if you go down this route.
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I have 3 stihl professional saws,
15in multi purpose saw, light easy to use enough grunt to cut through full size railway sleepers etc. (£680 new)
20in ground saw, very heavy, very very powerfull, very very very dangerous, will have through a sleeper in seconds (£900 new)
12in top handle arbourist saw, tree surgeon tool, properly lethal in the wrong hands, one handed operation makes it one of the most dangerous tools in the business. (£570 new)
For your needs I would recommend (loosly, see below) you buy a low end stihl MS170, can get em new off of ebay for less than £140, reliable, good quality, good power, prefect for your needs as its not a pro saw. Thing is with chainsaws you really get what you pay for, I had the chain snap on the top handle saw earlier this week and the saftey features of the saw saved some serious injuries........
.....which then leads me onto saftey equipment, forrestry helmet is a must, getting a splinter fly into your eye would not be a good thing (c.£50 for husky), gloves are also a must, get a set with decent chainsaw protection and tough leather palms (c.£20 for husky), I would also recommend some quality chainsaw trousers, these fellas will kill the saw dead if you happen to loose control and have it swing into your leg (c.£80 for husky). You will notice all the saftey gear above is husky, they IMHO are of a higher quality than the stihl gear, that little lot is the bear min I would wear if using a chainsaw.
If all that seems a little daunting/expensive then get a pro in with all the gear for £100 a day as and when you need him, safter for you, better for your family should something happen, very dangerous tools and IMHO should never be operated without the proper training, I dont think you should even be alowed to buy them without displaying the proper paperwork!!!!
Just me 2ps worth
15in multi purpose saw, light easy to use enough grunt to cut through full size railway sleepers etc. (£680 new)
20in ground saw, very heavy, very very powerfull, very very very dangerous, will have through a sleeper in seconds (£900 new)
12in top handle arbourist saw, tree surgeon tool, properly lethal in the wrong hands, one handed operation makes it one of the most dangerous tools in the business. (£570 new)
For your needs I would recommend (loosly, see below) you buy a low end stihl MS170, can get em new off of ebay for less than £140, reliable, good quality, good power, prefect for your needs as its not a pro saw. Thing is with chainsaws you really get what you pay for, I had the chain snap on the top handle saw earlier this week and the saftey features of the saw saved some serious injuries........
.....which then leads me onto saftey equipment, forrestry helmet is a must, getting a splinter fly into your eye would not be a good thing (c.£50 for husky), gloves are also a must, get a set with decent chainsaw protection and tough leather palms (c.£20 for husky), I would also recommend some quality chainsaw trousers, these fellas will kill the saw dead if you happen to loose control and have it swing into your leg (c.£80 for husky). You will notice all the saftey gear above is husky, they IMHO are of a higher quality than the stihl gear, that little lot is the bear min I would wear if using a chainsaw.
If all that seems a little daunting/expensive then get a pro in with all the gear for £100 a day as and when you need him, safter for you, better for your family should something happen, very dangerous tools and IMHO should never be operated without the proper training, I dont think you should even be alowed to buy them without displaying the proper paperwork!!!!
Just me 2ps worth
#30
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Originally Posted by POC
I have 3 stihl professional saws,
15in multi purpose saw, light easy to use enough grunt to cut through full size railway sleepers etc. (£680 new)
20in ground saw, very heavy, very very powerfull, very very very dangerous, will have through a sleeper in seconds (£900 new)
12in top handle arbourist saw, tree surgeon tool, properly lethal in the wrong hands, one handed operation makes it one of the most dangerous tools in the business. (£570 new)
For your needs I would recommend (loosly, see below) you buy a low end stihl MS170, can get em new off of ebay for less than £140, reliable, good quality, good power, prefect for your needs as its not a pro saw. Thing is with chainsaws you really get what you pay for, I had the chain snap on the top handle saw earlier this week and the saftey features of the saw saved some serious injuries........
.....which then leads me onto saftey equipment, forrestry helmet is a must, getting a splinter fly into your eye would not be a good thing (c.£50 for husky), gloves are also a must, get a set with decent chainsaw protection and tough leather palms (c.£20 for husky), I would also recommend some quality chainsaw trousers, these fellas will kill the saw dead if you happen to loose control and have it swing into your leg (c.£80 for husky). You will notice all the saftey gear above is husky, they IMHO are of a higher quality than the stihl gear, that little lot is the bear min I would wear if using a chainsaw.
If all that seems a little daunting/expensive then get a pro in with all the gear for £100 a day as and when you need him, safter for you, better for your family should something happen, very dangerous tools and IMHO should never be operated without the proper training, I dont think you should even be alowed to buy them without displaying the proper paperwork!!!!
Just me 2ps worth
15in multi purpose saw, light easy to use enough grunt to cut through full size railway sleepers etc. (£680 new)
20in ground saw, very heavy, very very powerfull, very very very dangerous, will have through a sleeper in seconds (£900 new)
12in top handle arbourist saw, tree surgeon tool, properly lethal in the wrong hands, one handed operation makes it one of the most dangerous tools in the business. (£570 new)
For your needs I would recommend (loosly, see below) you buy a low end stihl MS170, can get em new off of ebay for less than £140, reliable, good quality, good power, prefect for your needs as its not a pro saw. Thing is with chainsaws you really get what you pay for, I had the chain snap on the top handle saw earlier this week and the saftey features of the saw saved some serious injuries........
.....which then leads me onto saftey equipment, forrestry helmet is a must, getting a splinter fly into your eye would not be a good thing (c.£50 for husky), gloves are also a must, get a set with decent chainsaw protection and tough leather palms (c.£20 for husky), I would also recommend some quality chainsaw trousers, these fellas will kill the saw dead if you happen to loose control and have it swing into your leg (c.£80 for husky). You will notice all the saftey gear above is husky, they IMHO are of a higher quality than the stihl gear, that little lot is the bear min I would wear if using a chainsaw.
If all that seems a little daunting/expensive then get a pro in with all the gear for £100 a day as and when you need him, safter for you, better for your family should something happen, very dangerous tools and IMHO should never be operated without the proper training, I dont think you should even be alowed to buy them without displaying the proper paperwork!!!!
Just me 2ps worth
POC in sensible post shocker