Pushbike chain??
#1
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Don't laugh, but I'm renovating my trusty pushbike, vintage 20 yrs old, hasn't seen action for 10 of them or more.
It's a 10-speed, ie 5 (yes, just FIVE) cogs on the rear cluster.
Tried to buy a chain for it - got a similar reaction as shown in the NOTT "I'd like to buy a gramophone" sketch.
Is it just that we have crap bike shops in Lisbon (highly likely, as cyclists don't last long here), or is it true that a chain for a 5-speed block is obsolete?
What happens if I buy a chain for an 8-speed? Doesn't fit? Fits, but will stretch quicker? Won't run on the rear mech pulley wheels?
(I really don't want to buy a new cluster, it just hardly seems worth it. And I don't EVEN have auto-levers)
Hoping not to get laughed off the BBS. But it was the bike I rode to Paris, across to Strasbourg, then up to Hamburg, if that gets a smidgen of respect...
Thanks all
Brendan
It's a 10-speed, ie 5 (yes, just FIVE) cogs on the rear cluster.
Tried to buy a chain for it - got a similar reaction as shown in the NOTT "I'd like to buy a gramophone" sketch.
Is it just that we have crap bike shops in Lisbon (highly likely, as cyclists don't last long here), or is it true that a chain for a 5-speed block is obsolete?
What happens if I buy a chain for an 8-speed? Doesn't fit? Fits, but will stretch quicker? Won't run on the rear mech pulley wheels?
(I really don't want to buy a new cluster, it just hardly seems worth it. And I don't EVEN have auto-levers)
Hoping not to get laughed off the BBS. But it was the bike I rode to Paris, across to Strasbourg, then up to Hamburg, if that gets a smidgen of respect...
Thanks all
Brendan
#2
Try http://www.sjscycles.com - they shipped me drivetrain parts for my fixed gear road bike that I couldn't find in local shops. And - respect!
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Works cycle mechanic is part of my job description.
A chain is a chain.It will fit whatever gear combo you have so long as it has the same sized links & most important length(number of links).
If the shop only has an 8-speed chain but in the same link size then it will be a few links longer.Buy or borrow a chain splitter & take out the extra links,use the supplied split link to re-join.And away you pedal.
Make sure you count the links accurately before letting rip with the splitter.
Mark
A chain is a chain.It will fit whatever gear combo you have so long as it has the same sized links & most important length(number of links).
If the shop only has an 8-speed chain but in the same link size then it will be a few links longer.Buy or borrow a chain splitter & take out the extra links,use the supplied split link to re-join.And away you pedal.
Make sure you count the links accurately before letting rip with the splitter.
Mark
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length is not an issue as you shorten it to correct length when fitting.
Speed does matter as the ten speed rear cluster chains are thinner in width due to more cogs on block. Replacing rear cluster may require upgrading of rear hub and for that you might as well buy a new wheel, not to mention new gear lever! (for indexed gear shifting )
Might as well buy a new bike
Speed does matter as the ten speed rear cluster chains are thinner in width due to more cogs on block. Replacing rear cluster may require upgrading of rear hub and for that you might as well buy a new wheel, not to mention new gear lever! (for indexed gear shifting )
Might as well buy a new bike
#5
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I'm pretty sure you can't run a chain for a 7, 8 or 9 speed rear cassette on a 5 speed block as the chain pitch will be too narow: they aren't called "narrow" chains for nowt, you know.
What about a 6 speed chain?
I do have a couple of knowledgeable contacts in bike shops here, (one of which works in Halfrauds, but is racing bike crazy), so I'll ask tomorrow for you.
Alcazar
What about a 6 speed chain?
I do have a couple of knowledgeable contacts in bike shops here, (one of which works in Halfrauds, but is racing bike crazy), so I'll ask tomorrow for you.
Alcazar
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Thanks for the answers all. Doesn't look so clear!
I remember when I had the five speed and they were introducing six and (gosh!) seven speed clusters, I'm quite sure you had to buy a different chain, at least for the seven speed. There was certainly differences btwn the thicknesses of the Sturmey Archer 3-speed (single cog) and the 5-speed cluster chains. I can't remember the dimensions.
I'll keep trying to soak this one in penetrating oil. Chances are the new chain won't mesh with the old rings anyway, but I will try.
(Up and down local cliffs on my 66"-ratio fixed wheeler yesterday - my legs are tired this morning )
I remember when I had the five speed and they were introducing six and (gosh!) seven speed clusters, I'm quite sure you had to buy a different chain, at least for the seven speed. There was certainly differences btwn the thicknesses of the Sturmey Archer 3-speed (single cog) and the 5-speed cluster chains. I can't remember the dimensions.
I'll keep trying to soak this one in penetrating oil. Chances are the new chain won't mesh with the old rings anyway, but I will try.
(Up and down local cliffs on my 66"-ratio fixed wheeler yesterday - my legs are tired this morning )
#7
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Right, just spoken to Sean, the racing bike guru at Halfords: his bike is a Scandium and carbon fibre team issue!
He tells me that chains suitable for 5 speeds are available from Halfords over the counter, and would be £8-10 according to manufacturer.
If your local shops are telling you different, they are trying to con you into a change of chain, chainrings, sprockets and mechs. NOT cheap!!!:
Try a few of the internet people who do export.
www.chainreactioncycles.com are very good, and based in N.Ireland so they are used to export.
Alcazar
[Edited by alcazar - 1/19/2004 10:09:10 AM]
He tells me that chains suitable for 5 speeds are available from Halfords over the counter, and would be £8-10 according to manufacturer.
If your local shops are telling you different, they are trying to con you into a change of chain, chainrings, sprockets and mechs. NOT cheap!!!:
Try a few of the internet people who do export.
www.chainreactioncycles.com are very good, and based in N.Ireland so they are used to export.
Alcazar
[Edited by alcazar - 1/19/2004 10:09:10 AM]
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http://www.edinburgh-bicycle.co.uk/c...il.cfm?ID=8441
A man who rides up mountains on a fixed ratio bike needs/deserves all the help he can get! This should do it
SB
A man who rides up mountains on a fixed ratio bike needs/deserves all the help he can get! This should do it
SB
#9
I don't think you can just use any old chain. I have Campagnolo 10-speed on my bike. I left it too long before replacing the chain, and when I put the new chain on it jumped because I'd wrecked the cogs on the cassette through having a worn chain running on it. I had to replace the rear cassette too. The cogs and the chain are very sensitive.
Try asking on http://www.roadbikereview.com
[Edited by Butkus - 1/19/2004 12:10:33 PM]
Try asking on http://www.roadbikereview.com
[Edited by Butkus - 1/19/2004 12:10:33 PM]
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Right, here goes.
The only different width of chain is for 9 speed(or 10 if your talking Campag)which is narrower than a regular (5,6,7,8 sp)chain. This would still work on a 5 speed though as it is the distance between the links that counts.
There are 2 standard sizes, the size that BMX's and old singlespeed bikes have and the other size which mountain bikes and road bikes have, which will be what you need, providing it's a derailleur gear setup.
Have a look at the cogs on the back wheel. The teeth should be symmetrical(sp?), if they are not and look like a sharks fin then the drive train will be worn, when chains wear they stretch and they'll wear the cogs down to suit so the new chain won't mesh corectly. The only optin then would be a new drivetrain.
Any decent cycle shop shouild have a guage for checking chain wear, they'll be able to advise whether a new chain would work
Whew, sorry. I need coffee
Brian
(Cycle mechanic in a past life...)
The only different width of chain is for 9 speed(or 10 if your talking Campag)which is narrower than a regular (5,6,7,8 sp)chain. This would still work on a 5 speed though as it is the distance between the links that counts.
There are 2 standard sizes, the size that BMX's and old singlespeed bikes have and the other size which mountain bikes and road bikes have, which will be what you need, providing it's a derailleur gear setup.
Have a look at the cogs on the back wheel. The teeth should be symmetrical(sp?), if they are not and look like a sharks fin then the drive train will be worn, when chains wear they stretch and they'll wear the cogs down to suit so the new chain won't mesh corectly. The only optin then would be a new drivetrain.
Any decent cycle shop shouild have a guage for checking chain wear, they'll be able to advise whether a new chain would work
Whew, sorry. I need coffee
Brian
(Cycle mechanic in a past life...)
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AND THE ANSWER IS...
I was in the local hypermarket, found one Shimano UG chain on the shelf (the only chain on sale), measured it against the chain on a cheapo kiddie's mountain bike nearby (ONLY 6 speed block), said "sod it", bought it and fitted it.
The result? It's fine on all except third gear, where it slips under any kind of load. Presumably third is the gear I used to use most and so would be more worn. However, I looked for the worn sharks fin teeth (thanks for that tip), and the back looks fine (including 3rd). The two front rings are like that but it seems to work fine on the front.
Interestingly, the chain bought had NARROW stamped on each link, yet it appeared to be almost wider than my original chain! Sure as hell isn't narrower!
Now up to me whether I want to mess about with a new cluster. Let's see how much I ride the bike first.
(Did feel younger again )
I was in the local hypermarket, found one Shimano UG chain on the shelf (the only chain on sale), measured it against the chain on a cheapo kiddie's mountain bike nearby (ONLY 6 speed block), said "sod it", bought it and fitted it.
The result? It's fine on all except third gear, where it slips under any kind of load. Presumably third is the gear I used to use most and so would be more worn. However, I looked for the worn sharks fin teeth (thanks for that tip), and the back looks fine (including 3rd). The two front rings are like that but it seems to work fine on the front.
Interestingly, the chain bought had NARROW stamped on each link, yet it appeared to be almost wider than my original chain! Sure as hell isn't narrower!
Now up to me whether I want to mess about with a new cluster. Let's see how much I ride the bike first.
(Did feel younger again )
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