Nitro R/C help..PLEASE
17 February 2003, 10:00 AM
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please help me as I am tearing my fecking hair out. I have run the truck in as stated in the instructions. It was running really rich but apparently this is normal.
It then says to set the high range and mid range screws to 2.5 - 3 turns from fully closed.
I have done this and I cannot get the thing to start. It has fired a couple of times but only for a second and then it stalls.
I have checked for flooding, glowplug condition and igniteor, etc but it refuses to start.
Any tips?
It then says to set the high range and mid range screws to 2.5 - 3 turns from fully closed.
I have done this and I cannot get the thing to start. It has fired a couple of times but only for a second and then it stalls.
I have checked for flooding, glowplug condition and igniteor, etc but it refuses to start.
Any tips?
17 February 2003, 11:05 AM
#2
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Devon
Posts: 1,422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One of your possible big problems is the time of year i.e bloody cold
I got my T-Maxx out yesterday for a run after and it was a pain to start.
I have heard of people using a hairdryer to "warm" the engine up a bit before trying to start it. I would be very careful about doing this, fuel spillage etc.
Some makes can be much more of a pain than others.
The first car I had was a Thunder Tiger TS4 (1/10th road car) and I had quite a few running in problems, but worked fine after a while (and lots of swearing at it).
The T-Maxx (1/10th Monster Truck) I got after was a dream in comaprison, ran in fine and then just worked.
I really think the current cold spell we are having isn't helping you at all,
hope this helps, Cheers, Grahame.
[Edited by springbok - 2/17/2003 11:06:29 AM]
I got my T-Maxx out yesterday for a run after and it was a pain to start.
I have heard of people using a hairdryer to "warm" the engine up a bit before trying to start it. I would be very careful about doing this, fuel spillage etc.
Some makes can be much more of a pain than others.
The first car I had was a Thunder Tiger TS4 (1/10th road car) and I had quite a few running in problems, but worked fine after a while (and lots of swearing at it).
The T-Maxx (1/10th Monster Truck) I got after was a dream in comaprison, ran in fine and then just worked.
I really think the current cold spell we are having isn't helping you at all,
hope this helps, Cheers, Grahame.
[Edited by springbok - 2/17/2003 11:06:29 AM]
17 February 2003, 11:08 AM
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cheers Grahame,
My main problem is that I have adjusted the carb setting to what the manual says and it won't go. I have tried to re-set them to the factory settings and the ****** still won't start.
I have some major blisters from the fecking pull start too.
My main problem is that I have adjusted the carb setting to what the manual says and it won't go. I have tried to re-set them to the factory settings and the ****** still won't start.
I have some major blisters from the fecking pull start too.
17 February 2003, 11:28 AM
#4
Scooby Regular
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: The poliotical wing of Chip Sengravy.
Posts: 6,129
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
put this on your personal mp3 player and pretend 
http://www.aviz.co.uk/upload/upload/Protech.wav
make sure the carb is primed first, and dont give it too much throttle when starting.
http://www.aviz.co.uk/upload/upload/Protech.wav
make sure the carb is primed first, and dont give it too much throttle when starting.
17 February 2003, 05:15 PM
#6
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,824
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just got this........
This is a tough one unless you have done it before, you will have to be careful, patient, and just make SMALL adjustments. what happens (more so in a slide carb) is as you turn the low needle in it hits the jet and the slide opens thus you can turn it nearly for ever.
Remove the air cleaner, back the needle out so the head is about .5 mm past the flange where it goes in the carb. set the slide open to 2mm as per the instructions.
Carefully hold the carb slide between your fingers and watch the slide through the carb opening and SLOWLY, GENTLY turn the needle in until you just see/feel the slide begin to open, I'm talking micro movement. this is your "closed position" the needle has just contacted the jet, now back the needle out the directed amount. as with any needle be careful these are "needles" not bolts.
Remove the air cleaner, back the needle out so the head is about .5 mm past the flange where it goes in the carb. set the slide open to 2mm as per the instructions.
Carefully hold the carb slide between your fingers and watch the slide through the carb opening and SLOWLY, GENTLY turn the needle in until you just see/feel the slide begin to open, I'm talking micro movement. this is your "closed position" the needle has just contacted the jet, now back the needle out the directed amount. as with any needle be careful these are "needles" not bolts.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post