Glue that won't melt in the sun!!!!
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From: Bradford
My A-pillar boost gauge is held on with velcro which is obviously attached to the pod and the a-piller with glue. Trouble is the thing melts off in the sun and it's really hacking me off.
Anybody got any suggestions?
PS Tried superglue.....cr@p!
Anybody got any suggestions?
PS Tried superglue.....cr@p!
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Mix weetabix up with milk and sugar. Put it on both sides on what you want to stick and wait. Within 5 minutes the weetabix will be rock hard and impossible to shift.
Alternatativly try araldite, or some of those supa grip pads.
Alternatativly try araldite, or some of those supa grip pads.
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From: Leeds
Surely Araldite defeats the object...I presume you want something that will be semi-permanent, that when you come to sell the car, can be removed and will not show holes...or glue still on the pillar...??
One option could be silicone sealant (or bath/shower sealant)...can be pealed off quite easily when you've finished with it leaving no marks...and will not melt in the sun...and should hold the thing in palce for years
Just a few ideas
Rum*
One option could be silicone sealant (or bath/shower sealant)...can be pealed off quite easily when you've finished with it leaving no marks...and will not melt in the sun...and should hold the thing in palce for years
Just a few ideas
Rum*
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From: Newmarket Suffolk
You really do get some sh1te useless advice on this BBS sometimes! 
Araldite or any other epoxy resin adhesive will NOT work in this case. It doesn't stick smooth surfaces together.
You want a high impact adhesive such as some double sided body tape like that used to stick bodykits/trim on by manufacturers/bodyshops. Try a decent car refinishing supplier i.e. those that sell paints etc to the trade.
[Edited by Dave T-S - 8/24/2002 9:09:47 PM]
Araldite or any other epoxy resin adhesive will NOT work in this case. It doesn't stick smooth surfaces together.
You want a high impact adhesive such as some double sided body tape like that used to stick bodykits/trim on by manufacturers/bodyshops. Try a decent car refinishing supplier i.e. those that sell paints etc to the trade.
[Edited by Dave T-S - 8/24/2002 9:09:47 PM]
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Try contact adheisive, it sticks like buggery but will come apart if you work at it very slowly.
its also pretty neat and tidy as well as it involves gluing both surfaces and leaving them to touch dry, then you mate the surfaces together.
only downside is you get only ONE chance to line it up and stick it together !
its also pretty neat and tidy as well as it involves gluing both surfaces and leaving them to touch dry, then you mate the surfaces together.
only downside is you get only ONE chance to line it up and stick it together !
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Dave
Rubber and polypropalene cannot be bonded with Araldite. BUT plastics and other smooth surfaces can, so long as they are prepared properly.
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/SurfacePreparation.pdf
and
Plus more on Araldite you ever needed to know
So
to your
[Edited by Neil Smalley - 8/25/2002 12:21:44 AM]
Rubber and polypropalene cannot be bonded with Araldite. BUT plastics and other smooth surfaces can, so long as they are prepared properly.
http://www.on-hand.com/Manuals/SurfacePreparation.pdf
Araldite resins adhere firmly to most materials. Bonds of great metals, plastics, etc. strength are obtained after
removal of grease and loose surface deposits, e.g. rust, from the surfaces to be joined, but when maximum
strength is required a more thorough mechanical or a chemical pretreatment is recommended.
removal of grease and loose surface deposits, e.g. rust, from the surfaces to be joined, but when maximum
strength is required a more thorough mechanical or a chemical pretreatment is recommended.
PRETREATMENT OF PLASTICS
Thermosetting plastics: Mouldings, castings, laminates, etc. can
usually be bonded without difficulty. To ensure good bond strength,
all soil and residual release agent must be removed from the joint
surfaces before the Araldite adhesive is applied. The surfaces must either
be abraded with emery cloth or grit-blasted, or they must be cleaned
with a solvent such as acetone, methylethylketone, etc. Abrading or
grit-blasting is recommended for mouldings since their surfaces may
otherwise repel the adhesive.
Thermoplastics: These are often difficult to bond. Certain types
permit only moderately successful bonding, and one and the same
material may show considerable variation in properties determining the
strength of a bond. Special adhesives have been developed, but they
usually prove to be unserviceable when thermoplastics have to be
bonded to materials such as wood, metal, etc. Araldite adhesives can
be very useful in such cases even though their suitability for bonding
thermoplastics is only limited. Pretreated thermoplastics for special
applications (e.g. ski ‘skins’) are easily bonded with Araldite.
*Note: Use with Caution
Thermosetting plastics: Mouldings, castings, laminates, etc. can
usually be bonded without difficulty. To ensure good bond strength,
all soil and residual release agent must be removed from the joint
surfaces before the Araldite adhesive is applied. The surfaces must either
be abraded with emery cloth or grit-blasted, or they must be cleaned
with a solvent such as acetone, methylethylketone, etc. Abrading or
grit-blasting is recommended for mouldings since their surfaces may
otherwise repel the adhesive.
Thermoplastics: These are often difficult to bond. Certain types
permit only moderately successful bonding, and one and the same
material may show considerable variation in properties determining the
strength of a bond. Special adhesives have been developed, but they
usually prove to be unserviceable when thermoplastics have to be
bonded to materials such as wood, metal, etc. Araldite adhesives can
be very useful in such cases even though their suitability for bonding
thermoplastics is only limited. Pretreated thermoplastics for special
applications (e.g. ski ‘skins’) are easily bonded with Araldite.
*Note: Use with Caution
So
to your [Edited by Neil Smalley - 8/25/2002 12:21:44 AM]
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On a more serious note the advice of going to a car accessory fitters is a good one. The Supa Grip (foam pads with contact/Epoxy type adhesive on each side is about the grippiest stuff you can use to fix stuff to dashboard.
It all depends on if you want to leave a mark if you want to take it off again. Supa Grip will be easier to clean off
It all depends on if you want to leave a mark if you want to take it off again. Supa Grip will be easier to clean off
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From: Newmarket Suffolk
Neil
From your own quote......
Seriously, it won't work in this case. And abrading the surface to get a key is not a good idea bearing in mind Saxo Boy doesn't want any marks if it is removed.
Re Araldite, my dad was an electronics engineer and was one of the first industrial users of this back in the sixties, so I grew up around adhesives and for a change DO know what I am talking about
From your own quote......
though their suitability for bonding thermoplastics is only limited.
Re Araldite, my dad was an electronics engineer and was one of the first industrial users of this back in the sixties, so I grew up around adhesives and for a change DO know what I am talking about
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Dave
From your own quote
The document I found said It clearly does(and you implied this in your post), albeit with some preperation and its also a version of it can also used to bond fans to CPU's etc. Araldite has no doubt improved what it sticks to since you were a bairn.
From what I managed to find out, its not that it won't bond to the thermoplastics its the fact that the bonding process is an exothermic reaction so it could well damage some plastics.
So Back
You grew up with glue. Explains a lot m8
Anyway, I still reckon these supagrip pads you can buy at car hifi shops are the best bet. So as usual we are agreeing, but feeling jovially argumentative.
[Edited by Neil Smalley - 8/25/2002 1:29:09 PM]
From your own quote
It doesn't stick smooth surfaces together.
From what I managed to find out, its not that it won't bond to the thermoplastics its the fact that the bonding process is an exothermic reaction so it could well damage some plastics.
So
Back You grew up with glue. Explains a lot m8
Anyway, I still reckon these supagrip pads you can buy at car hifi shops are the best bet. So as usual we are agreeing, but feeling jovially argumentative.
[Edited by Neil Smalley - 8/25/2002 1:29:09 PM]
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