DIY help
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DIY help
It's a bit draughty under my patio door (I don't have a patio but it's a patio type door anyway ).
Any advice on how to seal this up?
The floor is finished with some cheap Ikea laminate (discontinued) and a 'edge strip' (name?) from same range of laminate goes into the gap, but I want to seal the area itself behind the 'edge strip' thingy? There is obviously an imperfect seal between the door frame and concrete/substrate.
Can I just push some felt or something under? I'm not keen on pumping any filler in the space because it can get messy and won't easily come back out.
Any advice on how to seal this up?
The floor is finished with some cheap Ikea laminate (discontinued) and a 'edge strip' (name?) from same range of laminate goes into the gap, but I want to seal the area itself behind the 'edge strip' thingy? There is obviously an imperfect seal between the door frame and concrete/substrate.
Can I just push some felt or something under? I'm not keen on pumping any filler in the space because it can get messy and won't easily come back out.
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If the gap is bigger than say 10mm then Expanding foam is the way to go, just not the cheap crap that comes with the nozzle.
you need the gun grade stuff and a gun obviously because you can control how much comes out. I'd use fire foam as it doesn't expand as much as regular.
Smaller than 10 mm and any silicone will do just cut the nozzle bigger than the gap and pump it in all the way along allowing excess to come forward slightly, i wouldn't use acrylic.
you need the gun grade stuff and a gun obviously because you can control how much comes out. I'd use fire foam as it doesn't expand as much as regular.
Smaller than 10 mm and any silicone will do just cut the nozzle bigger than the gap and pump it in all the way along allowing excess to come forward slightly, i wouldn't use acrylic.
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If the gap is bigger than say 10mm then Expanding foam is the way to go, just not the cheap crap that comes with the nozzle.
you need the gun grade stuff and a gun obviously because you can control how much comes out. I'd use fire foam as it doesn't expand as much as regular.
Smaller than 10 mm and any silicone will do just cut the nozzle bigger than the gap and pump it in all the way along allowing excess to come forward slightly, i wouldn't use acrylic.
you need the gun grade stuff and a gun obviously because you can control how much comes out. I'd use fire foam as it doesn't expand as much as regular.
Smaller than 10 mm and any silicone will do just cut the nozzle bigger than the gap and pump it in all the way along allowing excess to come forward slightly, i wouldn't use acrylic.
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[QUOTE=gazney101;11931641]
Fortunately was able to scrape it clean with a putty scraper but yeah was too on/off.
Fortunately was able to scrape it clean with a putty scraper but yeah was too on/off.
Last edited by tony de wonderful; 08 April 2017 at 07:19 PM.
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So guru would be stretching it, my background has come about via keeping on trying until its right. Sometimes successful, sometimes not.
Draught-proofing is a case of trying various things until its sorted; With respect to your door; I'd be looking at where the air is entering; If it's between the frame and brick, then any exterior grade flexible filler should do it; Mastic or Caulking.
However, if it's between the frame and door, then that's going to need more scrutiny; damaged/worn seal, missing seal or misaligned door. In my case my one rear door is missing a few seals- they were never fitted no doubt due to the fitter doing a shortcut after finding the door wouldn't shut with them fitted (I recalled him having issues and faffing about), been promised it will be sorted, but still waiting; Their loss though as they've now lost my business in getting the front windows replaced.
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Sorry, I have a poor history when it comes to expanding foam. Pretty certain Dunc has been witness to the pictures showing the aftermath.
So guru would be stretching it, my background has come about via keeping on trying until its right. Sometimes successful, sometimes not.
Draught-proofing is a case of trying various things until its sorted; With respect to your door; I'd be looking at where the air is entering; If it's between the frame and brick, then any exterior grade flexible filler should do it; Mastic or Caulking.
However, if it's between the frame and door, then that's going to need more scrutiny; damaged/worn seal, missing seal or misaligned door. In my case my one rear door is missing a few seals- they were never fitted no doubt due to the fitter doing a shortcut after finding the door wouldn't shut with them fitted (I recalled him having issues and faffing about), been promised it will be sorted, but still waiting; Their loss though as they've now lost my business in getting the front windows replaced.
So guru would be stretching it, my background has come about via keeping on trying until its right. Sometimes successful, sometimes not.
Draught-proofing is a case of trying various things until its sorted; With respect to your door; I'd be looking at where the air is entering; If it's between the frame and brick, then any exterior grade flexible filler should do it; Mastic or Caulking.
However, if it's between the frame and door, then that's going to need more scrutiny; damaged/worn seal, missing seal or misaligned door. In my case my one rear door is missing a few seals- they were never fitted no doubt due to the fitter doing a shortcut after finding the door wouldn't shut with them fitted (I recalled him having issues and faffing about), been promised it will be sorted, but still waiting; Their loss though as they've now lost my business in getting the front windows replaced.
I think most of the draughts in the back are actually coming from the interior roof now. It's wood slats presumably attached to the joists. There are some small gaps in the slats and I think because the roof cavity breaths via an air brick it's letting hot air out and cold air in to the actual living space.
My instinct is to seal the gaps in the slats with filler (done carefully) then paint over, but really I'm just guessing. The air brick needs to stay open to prevent damp.
And then there is the front room which is bare floorboards (although probably not original) and has the front door (no hallway) opening directly into it. The floorboards have caps of a few mm in places letting cold air up from under the house, and the front door probably needs a better seal and improvements like to the keyhole and letter slot.
Although the floorboards have gaps the front room is warmer than the back so less an issue, and I hesitate to seal everything tight in the floor cos like the air brick it helps prevent damp.
Last edited by tony de wonderful; 08 April 2017 at 07:51 PM.
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If I'm repairing the seal between frame and wall should I hack out the old seal/caulk first or just go ahead and fill in the gaps?
I got some decorator's filler for the job, but I think I should get a razor and remove the bad caulk first?
I got some decorator's filler for the job, but I think I should get a razor and remove the bad caulk first?