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Old 07 April 2017, 06:43 PM
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tony de wonderful
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Default DIY help

It's a bit draughty under my patio door (I don't have a patio but it's a patio type door anyway ).

Any advice on how to seal this up?

The floor is finished with some cheap Ikea laminate (discontinued) and a 'edge strip' (name?) from same range of laminate goes into the gap, but I want to seal the area itself behind the 'edge strip' thingy? There is obviously an imperfect seal between the door frame and concrete/substrate.

Can I just push some felt or something under? I'm not keen on pumping any filler in the space because it can get messy and won't easily come back out.




Old 07 April 2017, 06:56 PM
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I'm similar situation .

iv fancied couple cans expanding foam
Old 07 April 2017, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dpb
I'm similar situation .

iv fancied couple cans expanding foam
It can get pretty messy that stuff but maybe you are right and I just use a minimal amount in the gap?
Old 07 April 2017, 07:16 PM
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I cant think better solution , maybe mask up as much as possible
Old 07 April 2017, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dpb
I'm similar situation .

iv fancied couple cans expanding foam


Sure, what could possibly go wrong
Old 07 April 2017, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
Sure, what could possibly go wrong
What do you think Ali-B? I know you are a DIY guru.

FYI 2 cans is way too much I know. I used a can to fill a hole in the wall that a flue had been run through and that foam stuff swells up like an alien lol. Scary.
Old 07 April 2017, 08:28 PM
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Yes, foam to go
Old 07 April 2017, 08:59 PM
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You need some plastic trim to stick between door and floor then seal up with mastic if you lived nearer I would give you some got loads on my van
Old 07 April 2017, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmyrallye
You need some plastic trim to stick between door and floor then seal up with mastic if you lived nearer I would give you some got loads on my van
Thx. What does the trim look like and what sort of mastic would you use? Acrylic or silicone?
Old 07 April 2017, 09:11 PM
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what is it like externally? can you stop it getting inside in the first place ?
Old 07 April 2017, 09:19 PM
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If the gap is bigger than say 10mm then Expanding foam is the way to go, just not the cheap crap that comes with the nozzle.
you need the gun grade stuff and a gun obviously because you can control how much comes out. I'd use fire foam as it doesn't expand as much as regular.

Smaller than 10 mm and any silicone will do just cut the nozzle bigger than the gap and pump it in all the way along allowing excess to come forward slightly, i wouldn't use acrylic.
Old 07 April 2017, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
what is it like externally? can you stop it getting inside in the first place ?
The cement doesn't look too bad, although not perfect. I've got no experience mixing? and using cement though. Should I mix some and apply over the bits which look a bit patchy?
Old 07 April 2017, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gazney101
If the gap is bigger than say 10mm then Expanding foam is the way to go, just not the cheap crap that comes with the nozzle.
you need the gun grade stuff and a gun obviously because you can control how much comes out. I'd use fire foam as it doesn't expand as much as regular.

Smaller than 10 mm and any silicone will do just cut the nozzle bigger than the gap and pump it in all the way along allowing excess to come forward slightly, i wouldn't use acrylic.
What's acrylic used for? I've got some general purpose silicone somewhere.
Old 07 April 2017, 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by tony de wonderful
What's acrylic used for? I've got some general purpose silicone somewhere.
acrylic is for filling gaps that are to be painted over such as top edges of skirtings and backmoulds etc.
Gp silicone will do the job.
Old 08 April 2017, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by gazney101
just not the cheap crap that comes with the nozzle.
Yes I just learned that the hard way lol.
Old 08 April 2017, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by tony de wonderful
Yes I just learned that the hard way lol.
Lol, it has its uses but trying to be neat with it is next to impossible.
its like an on / off switch you get all or nowt.

Can get very messy
Old 08 April 2017, 03:28 PM
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[QUOTE=gazney101;11931641]

Fortunately was able to scrape it clean with a putty scraper but yeah was too on/off.

Last edited by tony de wonderful; 08 April 2017 at 07:19 PM.
Old 08 April 2017, 03:42 PM
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Old 08 April 2017, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by tony de wonderful
What do you think Ali-B? I know you are a DIY guru.

FYI 2 cans is way too much I know. I used a can to fill a hole in the wall that a flue had been run through and that foam stuff swells up like an alien lol. Scary.
Sorry, I have a poor history when it comes to expanding foam. Pretty certain Dunc has been witness to the pictures showing the aftermath.

So guru would be stretching it, my background has come about via keeping on trying until its right. Sometimes successful, sometimes not.

Draught-proofing is a case of trying various things until its sorted; With respect to your door; I'd be looking at where the air is entering; If it's between the frame and brick, then any exterior grade flexible filler should do it; Mastic or Caulking.

However, if it's between the frame and door, then that's going to need more scrutiny; damaged/worn seal, missing seal or misaligned door. In my case my one rear door is missing a few seals- they were never fitted no doubt due to the fitter doing a shortcut after finding the door wouldn't shut with them fitted (I recalled him having issues and faffing about), been promised it will be sorted, but still waiting; Their loss though as they've now lost my business in getting the front windows replaced.
Old 08 April 2017, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ALi-B
Sorry, I have a poor history when it comes to expanding foam. Pretty certain Dunc has been witness to the pictures showing the aftermath.

So guru would be stretching it, my background has come about via keeping on trying until its right. Sometimes successful, sometimes not.

Draught-proofing is a case of trying various things until its sorted; With respect to your door; I'd be looking at where the air is entering; If it's between the frame and brick, then any exterior grade flexible filler should do it; Mastic or Caulking.

However, if it's between the frame and door, then that's going to need more scrutiny; damaged/worn seal, missing seal or misaligned door. In my case my one rear door is missing a few seals- they were never fitted no doubt due to the fitter doing a shortcut after finding the door wouldn't shut with them fitted (I recalled him having issues and faffing about), been promised it will be sorted, but still waiting; Their loss though as they've now lost my business in getting the front windows replaced.
My front windows need a bit of a look at TBH. They are PVC double glazed, seem sealed ok frame to exterior but the 'inner strips'?? (no idea what the official name is) have obviously developed detachment or something before and someone has resealed them with some sort of filler, to varying success. Ideally they need tidying up (some of the filler looks messy) and pressing back in.





I think most of the draughts in the back are actually coming from the interior roof now. It's wood slats presumably attached to the joists. There are some small gaps in the slats and I think because the roof cavity breaths via an air brick it's letting hot air out and cold air in to the actual living space.

My instinct is to seal the gaps in the slats with filler (done carefully) then paint over, but really I'm just guessing. The air brick needs to stay open to prevent damp.






And then there is the front room which is bare floorboards (although probably not original) and has the front door (no hallway) opening directly into it. The floorboards have caps of a few mm in places letting cold air up from under the house, and the front door probably needs a better seal and improvements like to the keyhole and letter slot.

Although the floorboards have gaps the front room is warmer than the back so less an issue, and I hesitate to seal everything tight in the floor cos like the air brick it helps prevent damp.

Last edited by tony de wonderful; 08 April 2017 at 07:51 PM.
Old 08 April 2017, 09:36 PM
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If using expanding foam, then get the gun attachment, much better control. Also have spray bottle of water on hand. Once foam has expanded to desired amount mist the foam with water to stop further expansion.
Old 08 April 2017, 10:01 PM
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Righto just took some pics for you im a window/door fitter .. the trims come in difrent sizes you got 25mm/45/65/90 and so I'm geusseing you will need 25 or 45 as said spray expanding foam in void then stick trim to bottom of door then seal

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Old 08 April 2017, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jimmyrallye
Righto just took some pics for you im a window/door fitter .. the trims come in difrent sizes you got 25mm/45/65/90 and so I'm geusseing you will need 25 or 45 as said spray expanding foam in void then stick trim to bottom of door then seal
Thx dude.
Old 10 April 2017, 08:43 AM
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I'd go for silicone personally. Easier to control/fix/tidy up
Old 10 April 2017, 08:56 AM
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That is silicone anti mould bacteria one .. stops sealant going black
Old 10 April 2017, 06:46 PM
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If I'm repairing the seal between frame and wall should I hack out the old seal/caulk first or just go ahead and fill in the gaps?

I got some decorator's filler for the job, but I think I should get a razor and remove the bad caulk first?
Old 10 April 2017, 07:26 PM
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Best to scrape out what you can and then reapply with new
Old 12 April 2017, 08:50 AM
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Caulk isn't waterproof is it?
Old 12 April 2017, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by urban
Caulk isn't waterproof is it?
I thought the same, but some is.
Old 12 April 2017, 10:18 AM
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Nop I haven't come across a caulk that is waterproof .. you can't paint over silicone



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