Do you chaps know which of the attached would be perm live?

I don't have lumbar support so that's out (posted in technical but no one seems to go there and I'm in the middle of the install )

 

Horn and door-control will be permanent.

 

Where are you mounting the dash cam ? only you will find a feed in the map light area. . .

 

the cabling is too bulky for the map bit, and Markjmd, the horn is only on when the engine is on, although oddly the circuit appears to remain live.

Can't work it out .. going to post on their forums

 

Installing my F750 on an Audi A6 and I'm struggling with parking mode. I've identified two fuses, one is perm power the other is only active when the ignition is on.

Yellow wire connectioned to perm and it' always on, yellow wire to no-perm and it only comes on when the engine is on..

However, yellow to the no perm and red to the perm and when the engine is off, the camera shuts down?

Any ideas?

 

what camera?
I dont always use the cables that come with them.

 

F750 Thinkware

 

But if you knock the camera does it start recording ?

Typically in wiring the yellow is switched live and red is perm,
wiring is still in the map light pod on the Audi`s (I run two),
Just looked at the manual and it only mentions the hard wiring kit once, and no mention of installation lol.

 

It has a verbal confirmation, on my last car, when the power was cut it would announce parking mode and the light would flash, the lights go out now.

I've got two fuse extenders, so I guess I could be running it at the wrong amp.. does it say what amp per chance for perm?

 

Nothing on wiring the hard wiring kit, just start with a 5 amp, if it pops go bigger lol

 

it's not popped, works if you connect the yellow to either, but the red is being **** ..

I'll get it running and have a look at the options, maybe the internal battery needs to be charged or something..

Thanks for looking

 

Good point.

 

usb or cigar lighter, why go past what you don't need when they break so easily, if it's hard wired moving onto a newer one must bring issues?

 

Why would it break? and if the unit is faulty, it's only the unit you replace.

 

I prefer the hardwired ones as they look better, and typically they are either micro or mini usb to charge,
I gut the car cig chargers to make the kit, in the Audi`s it is literally 2 spade connections in the map light area, so seconds to fit,
In the Scoob I dropped the map light pod out and soldered a couple of spade connectors in the right place and made it a quick fit/change in the future,

The car cig leads are a few quid from china so I just keep some in stock and pre gut,heatshrink etc, it also doesnt hurt to check the soldering work on the chargers,
You can fit a fuse for the charger, but not that needed as the actual feed to the lights you`ve taken your feed off is fused,
Most chargers are 0.5 to 1 amp so arent requiring relays and live feeds from the battery.

 

I have been using the eprance mini and although they are good I have had 3 break and since they use a separate mounting base which charges it I have has two of these break. These are the things which make people move onto other units.

 

In my van I have a usb connector right up next to the screen so a 0.5m cable is too long to work my dash cam

 

feed any excess into roof lining, depending on length it may need securing so it isn`t a nuisance noise later,
the spiral leads are ideal so it has a little give,
this wire can obviously be altered to any length when the gutting takes place of the charger, you already have the soldering iron out, so no real issue.

 

Had mine F750 for well over a year, no issues so far.

Would replace like for like as I did my home work to find everything I wanted.

Just not willing to pay £200 this time to get it fitted when I'll do a neater job myself.

 

http://www.chameleondirect.co.uk/wor...e-colours-etc/

Why would they do this .. FFS

 

haha to pi ss you off.

 

so, connected and it work, tested a few times, including with rear and all good.

Cabled it all in and the camera is dead.

Assuming I've damaged the cable at some point during the install maybe? not that I've used forced or cut it.

Need a separate power to make sure the camera still works before I pay another ****ing £20 for replacement power and start over.

 

cant you check/repair the kit you have ?
as long as you have the plug for the camera everything else can be replaced.

 

I dont know where or if I've even damaged it .. I don't really want to pull the ****ing cabling out again

 

just tie a draw wire to it, easy to pull back after you have checked,
pull loops at all the corners, makes it easier.

 

Has someone got a broken dash cam

 

No, its the hard wiring kit lol

 

If I have I'll replace the unit like I said ..


This ****ing fuse thing is going to make me cry.

The wiring worked perfectly, it's now either on all the time or off .. camera works fine, I'm still thinking the wiring is fooked, maybe they've shorted together or something when I push them in.

Driving me nuts, given up now it's too dark.

 

continuity test the wiring

 

How?