Wiring in a dashcam
Do you chaps know which of the attached would be perm live?
I don't have lumbar support so that's out (posted in technical but no one seems to go there and I'm in the middle of the install :) ) https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.sco...0642a65001.jpg |
Horn and door-control will be permanent.
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Where are you mounting the dash cam ? only you will find a feed in the map light area. . .
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the cabling is too bulky for the map bit, and Markjmd, the horn is only on when the engine is on, although oddly the circuit appears to remain live.
Can't work it out .. going to post on their forums |
Installing my F750 on an Audi A6 and I'm struggling with parking mode. I've identified two fuses, one is perm power the other is only active when the ignition is on.
Yellow wire connectioned to perm and it' always on, yellow wire to no-perm and it only comes on when the engine is on.. However, yellow to the no perm and red to the perm and when the engine is off, the camera shuts down? Any ideas? |
what camera?
I dont always use the cables that come with them. |
F750 Thinkware
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Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11886854)
Installing my F750 on an Audi A6 and I'm struggling with parking mode. I've identified two fuses, one is perm power the other is only active when the ignition is on.
Yellow wire connectioned to perm and it' always on, yellow wire to no-perm and it only comes on when the engine is on.. However, yellow to the no perm and red to the perm and when the engine is off, the camera shuts down? Any ideas? Typically in wiring the yellow is switched live and red is perm, wiring is still in the map light pod on the Audi`s (I run two), Just looked at the manual and it only mentions the hard wiring kit once, and no mention of installation lol. |
Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
(Post 11886872)
But if you knock the camera does it start recording ?
Typically in wiring the yellow is switched live and red is perm, wiring is still in the map light pod on the Audi`s (I run two), Just looked at the manual and it only mentions the hard wiring kit once, and no mention of installation lol. :) I've got two fuse extenders, so I guess I could be running it at the wrong amp.. does it say what amp per chance for perm? |
Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11886877)
It has a verbal confirmation, on my last car, when the power was cut it would announce parking mode and the light would flash, the lights go out now.
:) I've got two fuse extenders, so I guess I could be running it at the wrong amp.. does it say what amp per chance for perm? |
it's not popped, works if you connect the yellow to either, but the red is being **** ..
I'll get it running and have a look at the options, maybe the internal battery needs to be charged or something.. Thanks for looking |
Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11886882)
it's not popped, works if you connect the yellow to either, but the red is being **** ..
I'll get it running and have a look at the options, maybe the internal battery needs to be charged or something.. Thanks for looking |
usb or cigar lighter, why go past what you don't need when they break so easily, if it's hard wired moving onto a newer one must bring issues?
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Originally Posted by stevebt
(Post 11886894)
usb or cigar lighter, why go past what you don't need when they break so easily, if it's hard wired moving onto a newer one must bring issues?
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Originally Posted by stevebt
(Post 11886894)
usb or cigar lighter, why go past what you don't need when they break so easily, if it's hard wired moving onto a newer one must bring issues?
I gut the car cig chargers to make the kit, in the Audi`s it is literally 2 spade connections in the map light area, so seconds to fit, In the Scoob I dropped the map light pod out and soldered a couple of spade connectors in the right place and made it a quick fit/change in the future, The car cig leads are a few quid from china so I just keep some in stock and pre gut,heatshrink etc, it also doesnt hurt to check the soldering work on the chargers, You can fit a fuse for the charger, but not that needed as the actual feed to the lights you`ve taken your feed off is fused, Most chargers are 0.5 to 1 amp so arent requiring relays and live feeds from the battery. |
Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11886896)
Why would it break? and if the unit is faulty, it's only the unit you replace.
I have been using the eprance mini and although they are good I have had 3 break and since they use a separate mounting base which charges it I have has two of these break. These are the things which make people move onto other units. |
Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
(Post 11886899)
I prefer the hardwired ones as they look better, and typically they are either micro or mini usb to charge,
. In my van I have a usb connector right up next to the screen so a 0.5m cable is too long to work my dash cam ;) |
Originally Posted by stevebt
(Post 11886920)
In my van I have a usb connector right up next to the screen so a 0.5m cable is too long to work my dash cam ;)
the spiral leads are ideal so it has a little give, this wire can obviously be altered to any length when the gutting takes place of the charger, you already have the soldering iron out, so no real issue. :thumb: |
Originally Posted by stevebt
(Post 11886918)
I have been using the eprance mini and although they are good I have had 3 break and since they use a separate mounting base which charges it I have has two of these break. These are the things which make people move onto other units.
Would replace like for like as I did my home work to find everything I wanted. Just not willing to pay £200 this time to get it fitted when I'll do a neater job myself.:thumb: |
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Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11886970)
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so, connected and it work, tested a few times, including with rear and all good.
Cabled it all in and the camera is dead. Assuming I've damaged the cable at some point during the install maybe? not that I've used forced or cut it. Need a separate power to make sure the camera still works before I pay another ****ing £20 for replacement power and start over. |
cant you check/repair the kit you have ?
as long as you have the plug for the camera everything else can be replaced. |
I dont know where or if I've even damaged it .. I don't really want to pull the ****ing cabling out again
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just tie a draw wire to it, easy to pull back after you have checked,
pull loops at all the corners, makes it easier. |
Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11886896)
Why would it break? and if the unit is faulty, it's only the unit you replace.
Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11887072)
I dont know where or if I've even damaged it .. I don't really want to pull the ****ing cabling out again
Has someone got a broken dash cam :) |
Originally Posted by stevebt
(Post 11887092)
Has someone got a broken dash cam :)
:freak3: |
Originally Posted by stevebt
(Post 11887092)
Has someone got a broken dash cam :)
Originally Posted by JDM_Stig
(Post 11887107)
No, its the hard wiring kit lol
:freak3: The wiring worked perfectly, it's now either on all the time or off .. camera works fine, I'm still thinking the wiring is fooked, maybe they've shorted together or something when I push them in. Driving me nuts, given up now it's too dark. |
Originally Posted by pimmo2000
(Post 11887168)
If I have I'll replace the unit like I said ..
This ****ing fuse thing is going to make me cry. The wiring worked perfectly, it's now either on all the time or off .. camera works fine, I'm still thinking the wiring is fooked, maybe they've shorted together or something when I push them in. Driving me nuts, given up now it's too dark. |
How?
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