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Old 18 April 2008, 12:23 PM
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KJD Mk1
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Default Show us your AFR guages

Thinking of possible fitting one, what do you all have and any advise on which one/type.

Thanks.

kev
Old 19 April 2008, 07:09 PM
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KJD Mk1
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No one has AFR guages then
Old 19 April 2008, 10:39 PM
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Danny Boy
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Wideband attached to Motec and displayed on MXL Dash, a bit posh but an AFR guage none the less
Old 20 April 2008, 04:07 PM
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frayz
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Hey mate,

I use the XD1/LC1 standalone kit from Innovate Motorsports. Awesome bit of kit, very reliable too. Comes with CD and laptop interface if you require it too.

Available here...

Mocom Racing - Performance car and trackday products

Here you can see mine mounted in a custom steering cowling pod.



Old 20 April 2008, 06:51 PM
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KJD Mk1
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Hi Frayz,
I thought you had this guage
I'm thinking of getting one fitted in the type R and Carl Davey recommended this particular one.

What wiring is involved to get it fitted?

Kev
Old 20 April 2008, 07:34 PM
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frayz
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Been a while since i fitted mine but as far as i remember it was very straight forward mate.

Also need the supplied boss welding in your downpipe.

Its a very very well made and high quality bit of kit.

I love mine
Old 20 April 2008, 08:20 PM
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KJD Mk1
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Originally Posted by frayz
Been a while since i fitted mine but as far as i remember it was very straight forward mate.

Also need the supplied boss welding in your downpipe.

Its a very very well made and high quality bit of kit.

I love mine
Thanks Frayz, looks a very useful bit of kit indeed
Old 20 April 2008, 11:29 PM
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Carl Davey
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Originally Posted by frayz
Also need the supplied boss welding in your downpipe.
Or you can use the LC-1's simulated narrow band output and bin the OEM sensor.

I actually had two extra bosses welded into my H&S downpipe (3 in total). I still haven't junked the narrowband sensor and i've been using the NBsim for over five months.
Old 20 April 2008, 11:52 PM
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frayz
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Lol @ Carl,

My narrowband is still in place too
Old 21 April 2008, 11:20 PM
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KJD Mk1
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You two are talking in another language here
Old 21 April 2008, 11:22 PM
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frayz
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Lol, dont worry buddy.

All you need to know is that the Innovate item is about as good as they come.
Old 22 April 2008, 10:33 AM
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Brun
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Got an Autometer one complete with a corner pod for a Classic which just happens to be for sale

Old 22 April 2008, 10:48 AM
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Jay m A
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I have the same one as above, in black. Knocklink LEDs next to it

Old 22 April 2008, 11:26 AM
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frayz
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Be mindful mate that the 2 gauges pictured above are narrowband. This is not what you want.

Only a wideband will give you an accurate numerical value for your AFR's
Old 22 April 2008, 12:59 PM
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Brun
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Cheers for the help with my sale frayz
frayz is correct in that the narrow band afr is only gonna give an indication of what your afr's are doing. Having said that, i only fitted that gauge to fill the hole left by my old boost gauge when i upgraded to Defi's. Once it was plumbed in i drove around for a while and it wasn't doing what i was told it should, ie- shoot into the rich zone under WOT. As a result of that, i had my car tested on a delta dash run which showed up my maf as failing and i was running very lean. It's quite possible that this little device had saved my engine as the car was doing nothing which would point to a failing maf
Old 22 April 2008, 01:01 PM
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Jay m A
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True, these gauges just tap into the OE sensor. However where most of theem have 20 LEDs measuring 0-1v, mine is recalibrated to measure IIRC 0.75-0.95v, hence more resolution in the narrow band. Still not ideal since the OE sensor isn't accurate (where I want to measure AFR), but what it does do is give you your benchmark AFR, whatever it may be. So when my car is mapped to say 11.2 AFR on boost I'll note what LED its hovering on post mapping session. Then I can use that as a reference.

LC-1 is better, granted.

Last edited by Jay m A; 22 April 2008 at 01:03 PM.
Old 22 April 2008, 05:01 PM
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frayz
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Sorry guys, i didnt mean to sound like i was having a dig. Please accept my appologies if i sounded that way.

Agreed the narrowband is better than nothing but from my experience theyre so hit and miss id rather not buy one. My cars map is altered very regularly so the wideband is a very important tool for me.
Old 22 April 2008, 06:29 PM
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when you understand how the sensors work you would realise that narrowbands are POINTLESS for a forced induction engine, its like having a gauge that dont read properly,,, it never saved a engine,, cause it STILL reads theres a issue even though the cars running fine now

narrowbands are nothing but pretty gauges with lights,,,,,, do nothing for the actual point,,,, as you cant GAUGE nothing on it
Old 22 April 2008, 10:11 PM
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Thanks for the offer on the guages guys but I was always going for the Innovate one anyway

I think Frayz was just pointing out the differences between the different types
Old 22 April 2008, 10:49 PM
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Brun
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No problem frayz - just pulling your leg.



when you understand how the sensors work you would realise that narrowbands are POINTLESS for a forced induction engine, its like having a gauge that dont read properly,,, it never saved a engine,, cause it STILL reads theres a issue even though the cars running fine now

narrowbands are nothing but pretty gauges with lights,,,,,, do nothing for the actual point,,,, as you cant GAUGE nothing on it
If it wasn't for my pointless narrowband afr, i would never have done a delta dash run and i would never have known my car was running lean due to the failing maf - how does that make it useless exactly?
Once i had fitted my new maf, the gauge did exactly what i was told it should

Last edited by Brun; 22 April 2008 at 10:52 PM.
Old 23 April 2008, 06:49 AM
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Jay m A
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You can also 'gauge' whether your Lambda sensor is working or not
Old 23 April 2008, 07:20 AM
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DaveR
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To be honest I haven't a clue what this guage is for ...... what Air:Fuel ratio is optimal, and does it vary during different types of driving or should it always remain near to a constant value?
Old 23 April 2008, 07:23 AM
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Just bought a stack one.
Old 23 April 2008, 08:16 AM
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frayz
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Originally Posted by DaveR
To be honest I haven't a clue what this guage is for ...... what Air:Fuel ratio is optimal, and does it vary during different types of driving or should it always remain near to a constant value?
Air fuel ratio is exactly that mate. The numerical ratio of air vs fuel. At idle your ideal AFR is what is known as "Stoich" or 14.7:1.

So that means 14.7 parts air to 1 part fuel. When the car is cruising off boost the AFR should also be "about" this value.... Stoich.

However when the vehicle starts to come on boost, the AFRs will richen slightly. This is due to the extra fuel being burnt in the combustion process but also the extra fuel added to keep the cylinders cool when on boost.

A full load, WOT (Wide open throttle) AFR will be around the 11.4 area, maybe a little leaner lower down the rpm range but certainly on the upper half of the rpm range this will be a typical value.

When you lift off the gas, the AFRs will go lean, indicating the sudden lack of fuel in the AFR.

However this is a very basic and simplified explanation and is valid for normal gasolene. When you start running methanol and other funny fuels the AFRs will be slightly different.

Hope that explains a little.
Old 23 April 2008, 08:20 AM
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Good explanation there
Old 23 April 2008, 08:38 AM
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yep actually that does help a lot - now I too shall sound knowledgeable down the pub

seriously though, thanks - had been wondering about AFR for some time and was too embarrassed to ask
Old 23 April 2008, 08:50 AM
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frayz
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Should always ask mate... thats what we're here for

Dont get me wrong it was a very very basic explanation and is actually a fair bit more in depth but thats essentially all there is to it when used in our application.
Old 23 April 2008, 09:43 AM
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Gasolene is the same as petrol. HTH.
Old 23 April 2008, 02:03 PM
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I now know what WOT is

Try saying that after a few Carlings
Old 23 April 2008, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver Scooby Sport
I now know what WOT is

Try saying that after a few Carlings


Quick Reply: Show us your AFR guages



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