Fog Lights for Driving/ Spot lamps
#1
Scooby Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: North Yorks
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Fog Lights for Driving/ Spot lamps
Afternoon all,
As title really! and there may already be a thread of this nature, but basically, has anyone swapped their fog lights for driving or spot lamps? either on the existing fogs switch or wired to the main beam?
cheers, Will
As title really! and there may already be a thread of this nature, but basically, has anyone swapped their fog lights for driving or spot lamps? either on the existing fogs switch or wired to the main beam?
cheers, Will
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Search is your friend:
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...-lamp-kit.html
Wiring driving lights via the foglight switch isn't legal: they MUST be wired so as to extinguish when dip beam is selected, coming on only with the main beam.
you can, however, use the existing foglight switch to choose whether they come on at all.
Loads of people have done this, Subaru used to sell a kit.
https://www.scoobynet.com/technical-...-lamp-kit.html
Wiring driving lights via the foglight switch isn't legal: they MUST be wired so as to extinguish when dip beam is selected, coming on only with the main beam.
you can, however, use the existing foglight switch to choose whether they come on at all.
Loads of people have done this, Subaru used to sell a kit.
#5
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (3)
"An easy way to get better dip is to relay the system. I measured my MY2000 classic and there's 1.5V drop on the dip wiring. So when the engines running, my 14.2V becomes 12.7V at the bulbs. That's about 50% less light output."
Fogs removed for fmic. Been running "rally" 100/90 lamps in a '95 classic - no heating of the wiring, full beam is now fine for me. Dipped is poor, in comparison.
Worth trying the above post?
What's the wiring layout to add relays?
Last edited by 2pot; 30 November 2013 at 09:51 PM.
#6
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
Easy enough.
You need two standard on/off four connector relays, plus a selection of DECENT sized cable, a couple of inline fuses, and the usual connectors.
Decent cable: ref 25, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...e/thinwall.php
Relays: type R30A, or R40B http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ays/relays.php
One thing to think about is the connectors: many folk use the crimp ones with coloured collars. Please DON'T unless you have the correct, very expensive crimping tool.
I tend to use ones from www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk, they are female, no covers, crimp type. I crimp, then solder. They are then covered with translucent nylon covers, (boots), from the same place.
Terminals: Ref FB6, covers, ref FB16H, ring terminals, (for earthing), ref:R6 http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php
fuseholders: ref 220, 0r 210+210C (covered) http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...s/holders1.php
To do the job, remove the connector from the back of the lamp find the cable which is LIVE when dip is selected, and remove it from the plastic connector: you can do this with a sharp pointed object down behind it.
Check the lights still work on main beam. this is important!
Now run the wires you removed to terminals 85 on your relays, taking another wire from terminal 86 to a decent earth.
Run thicker cables, (the stuff above), from battery +ve, via fuses, to each realy terminal 30, and the same thicker again, from relay terminal 87 to each dip beam.
That's it.
Total cost will be about £15, you can buy relays and terminals locally if you shop around. A decent electrical car place will sell you the lot for nearer £10.
You need two standard on/off four connector relays, plus a selection of DECENT sized cable, a couple of inline fuses, and the usual connectors.
Decent cable: ref 25, http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...e/thinwall.php
Relays: type R30A, or R40B http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ays/relays.php
One thing to think about is the connectors: many folk use the crimp ones with coloured collars. Please DON'T unless you have the correct, very expensive crimping tool.
I tend to use ones from www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk, they are female, no covers, crimp type. I crimp, then solder. They are then covered with translucent nylon covers, (boots), from the same place.
Terminals: Ref FB6, covers, ref FB16H, ring terminals, (for earthing), ref:R6 http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...ninsblades.php
fuseholders: ref 220, 0r 210+210C (covered) http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.e...s/holders1.php
To do the job, remove the connector from the back of the lamp find the cable which is LIVE when dip is selected, and remove it from the plastic connector: you can do this with a sharp pointed object down behind it.
Check the lights still work on main beam. this is important!
Now run the wires you removed to terminals 85 on your relays, taking another wire from terminal 86 to a decent earth.
Run thicker cables, (the stuff above), from battery +ve, via fuses, to each realy terminal 30, and the same thicker again, from relay terminal 87 to each dip beam.
That's it.
Total cost will be about £15, you can buy relays and terminals locally if you shop around. A decent electrical car place will sell you the lot for nearer £10.
Last edited by alcazar; 01 December 2013 at 02:45 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shorty87
Full Cars Breaking For Spares
19
22 December 2015 11:59 AM