fog light switch
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fog light switch
The fog light switch that switches on the front fogs (now running driving lights) does not illuminate when you switch the lights on and when I push the button in, it does not light up green like it should.
I asked my local Subaru garage and they said I would have to buy a new complete switch I thought you can change the bulbs if so what are they and more importantly how do you get to them?
Cheers
I asked my local Subaru garage and they said I would have to buy a new complete switch I thought you can change the bulbs if so what are they and more importantly how do you get to them?
Cheers
#4
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OK, it's a while since I did mine, but from what I remember, it was like this:
Remove the switch from the dash by levering out gently with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
Release it from the wiring.
Take it inside, and, working in good light, preferably on a sheet of white paper, prize it apart: once you have it in front of you, you'll see how it comes apart
The bulb(s) are wired in by wrapping the wires around a piece of circuit board, then through a hole and under a clip. A pair of tweezers helps here
They are 12V bulbs, and Maplins may be able to identify what they are, the Ladsoc site gave details, but IIRC, I think it was this: Maplin > Wire-Ended Filament Type
TBH, it's fiddly, but defo harder to describe than to do
HTH, Alcazar
Remove the switch from the dash by levering out gently with a flat-bladed screwdriver.
Release it from the wiring.
Take it inside, and, working in good light, preferably on a sheet of white paper, prize it apart: once you have it in front of you, you'll see how it comes apart
The bulb(s) are wired in by wrapping the wires around a piece of circuit board, then through a hole and under a clip. A pair of tweezers helps here
They are 12V bulbs, and Maplins may be able to identify what they are, the Ladsoc site gave details, but IIRC, I think it was this: Maplin > Wire-Ended Filament Type
TBH, it's fiddly, but defo harder to describe than to do
HTH, Alcazar
#5
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Alcazar is spot on, but its slightly easier to remove the bulb without taking the switch apart. You just use a flat screwdriver to "unlock" bulb as if you are turning a screw. You can see the back of the bulbs "plug" from the outside, thats what you turn.
Unwrap the bulbs filaments, and wrap your new ones round, then cut the excess wire off. If you cut it before, its harder to wrap them around.
I find that these bulbs are slightly better: Maplin > Coloured Subminiature Bulbs
Reason being you can get them in green already. Some of the bulbs in the switches have a coloured "condom" on them. Its pretty fiddly taking that off to fit on the new bulbs. But I think it the case of the fog switch, its not needed as there is a green filter anyway.
Unwrap the bulbs filaments, and wrap your new ones round, then cut the excess wire off. If you cut it before, its harder to wrap them around.
I find that these bulbs are slightly better: Maplin > Coloured Subminiature Bulbs
Reason being you can get them in green already. Some of the bulbs in the switches have a coloured "condom" on them. Its pretty fiddly taking that off to fit on the new bulbs. But I think it the case of the fog switch, its not needed as there is a green filter anyway.
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I need HELP please.
I decided to get a new switch from Subaru. I have taken the old switch out, but the two wires popped off before I could see where they are attached to. There are 6 possible connections. What do I connect the two wires to?
I decided to get a new switch from Subaru. I have taken the old switch out, but the two wires popped off before I could see where they are attached to. There are 6 possible connections. What do I connect the two wires to?
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Sorry - didn't relise you couldn't see the LADS links - I presume you have to register First.
Here's the original info I created when stripping the interior switches - hope its of use.
I've also got wiring disgrams somewhere on my PC at work (not in the office until Thur next week though)
Chris
.................................................. .....
All I can say is give it a try - if at any point you think your about to break something, stop, and I'll do it for you at a meeting or event (I carry the kit in my car).
Classic Impreza switch bulb changing instructions / advise
Removal –
Hazard & Heated rear –
Pull out the drinks tray (MY99 / 00) or remove the banking plate (MY98 >) and place a small screwdriver down the right hand side of the right hand switch. Gently lever both switches over towards the drink holder and both should pop out. Remove the connection block on the back.
Front & Rear Fogs –
Safest way is to remove the lowest half of the steering surround. Remove two metal screws – one above the bonnet release and one next to the transmission tunnel. Remove a plastic screw in the side – only visible with the door open.
With all 3 screws out place your hands in the gaps either side of the steering column. Grab the unit and pull directly back towards yourself. There are two male to female lugs that hold the unit in place, your simply separating them – nothing should break if all 3 screws are removed.
Once loose don’t try to walk away! The ECU reader wires are still connected. You will however have enough slack to place it on the floor and gain access to the switch retaining lugs. It’s simply remove the connection block and push the lug up and the switch should pop out.
Note - This is possible via the coin holder / fuse cover by your right knee, but if its your first time of removal use the top method and learn how the switch is held in ready for next time.
Headlamp wash, Bright Switch & Headlamp Height adjust –
A bit more daunting these!
You simply need to simply prise them out with the smallest flat bladed screwdriver you have. The retaining lugs are on the left and right of the switch – pushing a lug back and prising the switch forward will allow removal.
Warning – be careful, one slip and it’s a scratch you’ll see each time you get in the car!
You can also access them by removing the stereo etc and getting your hand up behind the switch and pushing it out, but it’s a tight fit!
Strip down –
Tip – Do this on a table away from the car – bits may fly off if the spring gives way.
Taking the heated rear as an example - Best way to get the switches apart is to use a small flat bladed screwdriver to prise the plastic up either side of the retaining lugs. Once the screwdrivers in place put a length of thick wire down the side of the screwdriver and pull the screwdriver out leaving the wire in its place (not necessary if you have 4 small screwdrivers) then move to the next side of the lug.
Once you have 4 bits of wire sticking out the switch should pull apart.
The heated rear lugs are on the side of the switch and you’ll only need two screwdrivers / bits of wire.
Bulb Changing –
The bulbs are in small soft plastic holders with their wires wrapped in and out of holes in the holder.
Simply pull the holder & bulb off the two pins.
Don’t rip out the old bulb – the wire will cut through the plastic. Instead unravel the wire taking note of the route the wire takes. I’ve found using tweezers to rethread the wires works best followed by nail cutter to trim to the correct length – TIP - Don’t trim to length until threaded trough the extra wire helps with tightening etc.
Bulb part no –
BT43W – Available from Maplins at approx. 50p each + P&P.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1955&TabID=1&source=15&WorldI D=&doy=7m3
Assembly –
I'll use the hazard as an example as it’s the hardest to do.
Inside you will find a small spring & very small bit of white plastic coated in grease. This retains the switch when "on" and allows spring back when "off".
The top part of the switch has a pin sticking out. This has to be lined up in the slot that’s in the white bit of plastic whilst the other side is lined up on a pin in the bottom half of the switch. At the same time the spring has to be placed between the back of the bottom part of the switch and the top part of the switch.
The two parts are then brought together with the bottom part held horizontal and the top part at an approximate 45-degree angle.
The two parts will then slot into each other and click back together.
The heated rear just slots back together and the rear & front fogs are on a twist holder on the side of the switch.
Overview
Hazard Switch – One bulb required for the backlight.
Heated rear – As above but without all the springs and bits of plastic – Two bulbs – one for the “on” warning light and one for the backlight.
Headlamp wash – Not lit
Bright Switch – Not lit
Headlamp Height adjust – Two bulbs
Rear Fog & Front Fog – Bulb holders are accessible on the side of the switch so no strip down required. Two bulbs in each switch – one for the “on” warning light and one for the backlight.
Copyright - Chris Towers
Here's the original info I created when stripping the interior switches - hope its of use.
I've also got wiring disgrams somewhere on my PC at work (not in the office until Thur next week though)
Chris
.................................................. .....
All I can say is give it a try - if at any point you think your about to break something, stop, and I'll do it for you at a meeting or event (I carry the kit in my car).
Classic Impreza switch bulb changing instructions / advise
Removal –
Hazard & Heated rear –
Pull out the drinks tray (MY99 / 00) or remove the banking plate (MY98 >) and place a small screwdriver down the right hand side of the right hand switch. Gently lever both switches over towards the drink holder and both should pop out. Remove the connection block on the back.
Front & Rear Fogs –
Safest way is to remove the lowest half of the steering surround. Remove two metal screws – one above the bonnet release and one next to the transmission tunnel. Remove a plastic screw in the side – only visible with the door open.
With all 3 screws out place your hands in the gaps either side of the steering column. Grab the unit and pull directly back towards yourself. There are two male to female lugs that hold the unit in place, your simply separating them – nothing should break if all 3 screws are removed.
Once loose don’t try to walk away! The ECU reader wires are still connected. You will however have enough slack to place it on the floor and gain access to the switch retaining lugs. It’s simply remove the connection block and push the lug up and the switch should pop out.
Note - This is possible via the coin holder / fuse cover by your right knee, but if its your first time of removal use the top method and learn how the switch is held in ready for next time.
Headlamp wash, Bright Switch & Headlamp Height adjust –
A bit more daunting these!
You simply need to simply prise them out with the smallest flat bladed screwdriver you have. The retaining lugs are on the left and right of the switch – pushing a lug back and prising the switch forward will allow removal.
Warning – be careful, one slip and it’s a scratch you’ll see each time you get in the car!
You can also access them by removing the stereo etc and getting your hand up behind the switch and pushing it out, but it’s a tight fit!
Strip down –
Tip – Do this on a table away from the car – bits may fly off if the spring gives way.
Taking the heated rear as an example - Best way to get the switches apart is to use a small flat bladed screwdriver to prise the plastic up either side of the retaining lugs. Once the screwdrivers in place put a length of thick wire down the side of the screwdriver and pull the screwdriver out leaving the wire in its place (not necessary if you have 4 small screwdrivers) then move to the next side of the lug.
Once you have 4 bits of wire sticking out the switch should pull apart.
The heated rear lugs are on the side of the switch and you’ll only need two screwdrivers / bits of wire.
Bulb Changing –
The bulbs are in small soft plastic holders with their wires wrapped in and out of holes in the holder.
Simply pull the holder & bulb off the two pins.
Don’t rip out the old bulb – the wire will cut through the plastic. Instead unravel the wire taking note of the route the wire takes. I’ve found using tweezers to rethread the wires works best followed by nail cutter to trim to the correct length – TIP - Don’t trim to length until threaded trough the extra wire helps with tightening etc.
Bulb part no –
BT43W – Available from Maplins at approx. 50p each + P&P.
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=1955&TabID=1&source=15&WorldI D=&doy=7m3
Assembly –
I'll use the hazard as an example as it’s the hardest to do.
Inside you will find a small spring & very small bit of white plastic coated in grease. This retains the switch when "on" and allows spring back when "off".
The top part of the switch has a pin sticking out. This has to be lined up in the slot that’s in the white bit of plastic whilst the other side is lined up on a pin in the bottom half of the switch. At the same time the spring has to be placed between the back of the bottom part of the switch and the top part of the switch.
The two parts are then brought together with the bottom part held horizontal and the top part at an approximate 45-degree angle.
The two parts will then slot into each other and click back together.
The heated rear just slots back together and the rear & front fogs are on a twist holder on the side of the switch.
Overview
Hazard Switch – One bulb required for the backlight.
Heated rear – As above but without all the springs and bits of plastic – Two bulbs – one for the “on” warning light and one for the backlight.
Headlamp wash – Not lit
Bright Switch – Not lit
Headlamp Height adjust – Two bulbs
Rear Fog & Front Fog – Bulb holders are accessible on the side of the switch so no strip down required. Two bulbs in each switch – one for the “on” warning light and one for the backlight.
Copyright - Chris Towers
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