horn not working
#1
horn not working
hey everyone
there are loads of threads for this same problem but none of them have answered my question.
i have a 1997 impreza uk spec and my horn dont work.
the fuse is ok and also the horn if i connect it directly to the battery.
now a few threads say the relay could be at fault.
well how do i get to it.
apparently its on the drivers side under the dash behind the fuse box.
i checked and saw no relays????????
are there any diagrams as the one on the posts dont open the web page.
please please help, its nutty driving with no horn.
i dont really want to put an airhorn just the standard one, and i dont really want to use viagra or any blue pills
lol
there are loads of threads for this same problem but none of them have answered my question.
i have a 1997 impreza uk spec and my horn dont work.
the fuse is ok and also the horn if i connect it directly to the battery.
now a few threads say the relay could be at fault.
well how do i get to it.
apparently its on the drivers side under the dash behind the fuse box.
i checked and saw no relays????????
are there any diagrams as the one on the posts dont open the web page.
please please help, its nutty driving with no horn.
i dont really want to put an airhorn just the standard one, and i dont really want to use viagra or any blue pills
lol
#2
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (2)
There are relays on my classic, where you mentioned, three IIRC.
They are high up under the dash, VERY difficult to get at, you almost need to be a contortionist to FEEL them let alone work on one.
Have you checked if power is getting TO the horn? Use a voltmeter, or a simple tester like the ones with a small bulb in the handle, available from car shops.
If current is getting to it, is the earth path OK? A voltmeter set to resistance will tell you that.
Alcazar
They are high up under the dash, VERY difficult to get at, you almost need to be a contortionist to FEEL them let alone work on one.
Have you checked if power is getting TO the horn? Use a voltmeter, or a simple tester like the ones with a small bulb in the handle, available from car shops.
If current is getting to it, is the earth path OK? A voltmeter set to resistance will tell you that.
Alcazar
#3
hi mate thanks for reply,
i managed to find it and pull out the relay. now it looked fine but on the relay there is a tab. when i pressed that tab it made contact with a terminal and the horn sounded.
i was so happy to hear it
but when i connected it up again and pressed the horn nothing came out
but if i press the tab the horn sounds. is this a faulty relay?????
i managed to find it and pull out the relay. now it looked fine but on the relay there is a tab. when i pressed that tab it made contact with a terminal and the horn sounded.
i was so happy to hear it
but when i connected it up again and pressed the horn nothing came out
but if i press the tab the horn sounds. is this a faulty relay?????
#4
well not that anyone cares except alcazar but i found the problem.
anyone facing the same probs as me read on.
the relay was fine, the gap between the tab and the terminal was meant to be like that.
if a live current goes through the relay it would make the tab react and touch the terminal. i noticed on my steering column that there was a wire cut in half hanging and just behind it another wire cut in half. they were green with red marks. i joined them together and the horn works great. very and i mean very loud.
so if u have no horn and the horn works(by giving it a live from the battery directly), then i would advise u to check the wiring. i dont have a voltmeter but hopefully the colours i mentioned are the live for the steering wheel for all classics. mine is a 1997 uk spec and the relay (if u find it) was red with 3 wires going in it
to get to the relay i advise u to take of the bottom plastic housing. there were 3 screws, and on the side before the a pillar( open the door) there were 2 more
remove them and pull the plastic down and u will see loads and loads of wires. try to look behind the fuse box and u should see a red relay.( how can u tell its a relay, well it says relay on it)
getting ur hand through is a ******* it took me 15 min and 3 cuts later to remove it.
to remove it push it up as its held on by a metal mount( push/pull hard)
there u go
good luck
anyone facing the same probs as me read on.
the relay was fine, the gap between the tab and the terminal was meant to be like that.
if a live current goes through the relay it would make the tab react and touch the terminal. i noticed on my steering column that there was a wire cut in half hanging and just behind it another wire cut in half. they were green with red marks. i joined them together and the horn works great. very and i mean very loud.
so if u have no horn and the horn works(by giving it a live from the battery directly), then i would advise u to check the wiring. i dont have a voltmeter but hopefully the colours i mentioned are the live for the steering wheel for all classics. mine is a 1997 uk spec and the relay (if u find it) was red with 3 wires going in it
to get to the relay i advise u to take of the bottom plastic housing. there were 3 screws, and on the side before the a pillar( open the door) there were 2 more
remove them and pull the plastic down and u will see loads and loads of wires. try to look behind the fuse box and u should see a red relay.( how can u tell its a relay, well it says relay on it)
getting ur hand through is a ******* it took me 15 min and 3 cuts later to remove it.
to remove it push it up as its held on by a metal mount( push/pull hard)
there u go
good luck
#7
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Southampton
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In case anyone finds this in a search like me while trying to fix their horn (as it were) - my horn stopped working on my MY00 Classic and did all the tests, horns OK from battery, no power getting to horn connectors, no relay click, but clock spring OK and airbag light going out. Was just about to dismantle the clock spring then found this thread which prompted me to look under the steering column - near the diagnostic wires (green and two small black) was a 3x2 female block dangling with a corresponding male connector with a single red/black wire coming out of it close by. Connected these together and the horn works again - they must have been dislodged while cleaning the boost solenoid.
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