debbs

wot wires go where, which light is which.

big500

Maybe this could help ya
clicky


Steve

martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

Debbs,

Do us a favour will ya and post a picture on here when they are fitted and up & running.

I've been toying with the idea of buying some, but would like to see what they look like fitted first.

Cheers,

Marty

hypoluxa

All 4 lights are on all the time (as opposed to the morrettes), on dip the outer lights are brighter (insides are dimmed), when on main beam this is reversed.

Mine came from Upauto in Nottingham. They are not road legal btw.

martyrobertsdj

iTrader: (1)

They look quite good don't they!!!

I like the fact that they have the "angel eyes" for sidelights, rather than the Morette kit using the standard ones.

Think I might have to get myself a set. Have they caused you any problems for MOT? ie: did the tester really look at the lights, or do thay just check the beam pattern?

BTW...Lovely looking car!!!!!!

Marty

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Dimmed haolgen lamps? I was under the impression that this was a very quick route to bulb failure due to fast "bluing obver" of the bulb, since it can't get hot enough to encourage the metal to not condense on the glass casing.
Alcazar

big500

Alca , cant see how running the bulb COOLER would stop the metal oxidizing on the glass . Surely there would be more chance of the metal ( presumably the tungsten on the filament) oxidizing (or vapourising or whatever you have been told it does ) when the bulb is hotter and its electrons would be more mobile ?
I think I can smell male cow manure

Didn't a lot of fords run a sidelight when the ignition was on which was the 55W headlight bulb running on about 9 volts through a ballast resistor IIRC ,which sounds exactly like how the angels may be wired ?

Not wanting to urinate on ya parade mate cos I've had a lot of fun reading your posts

p.s. Alca do you need special brackets to fit the FF1000 lights or do you modify a PIAA type ??


Steve

alcazar

iTrader: (2)

Well, I'm only going on what I was told YEARS, (and I MEAN years) ago:, in a book on auto-electrics by a guy called David Vizard.

Apparently, the way a halogen bulb works is to use quartz glass, which can be run at MUCH higher temperatures, hence the smaller "envelope" on a halogen lamp than on a standard headlamp bulb.
They then introduce some small quantity of a halogen, usually iodine, into the capsule, before reducing the pressure in it, and sealing it.
Very early halogen lights were known as "Quartz-Iodine" lights.

The effect of the two is supposed to allow the bulb/filament to run hotter, and any filament that evaporates is "encouraged" NOT to coat the glass by the higher twmperature of the glass, preventing it condensing as easily, and it is encouraged to return to the filament by the halogen.

At least, that's my undersatnding of it. I can see the glass bit, but how the halogen does it's job, I'm not sure.

I'm not sure what Hella 1000FF's you're referring to.
The Scoobysport HID ones use a Scoobysport bracket that fixes the lamp unit rigidly in place, using 4 screws per lamp. It than bolts into place through the existing 3 boltholes. The brackets come with the lamp, and are very well designed indeed!

The Prodrive ones using the halogen version of the Hella 1000FF units, use a Prodrive produced bracket that uses the lamp's original single mounting point.Not as easy to use, and not as rigid, but they do work, and the light output is very good.

Check out both on the Hella website's "Virtual Light Tunnel".

Alcazar

big500

Al , had a book on tuning minis years ago by D.Vizzard , I agree with what your saying about quartz iodine , old filament lamps used a tungsten filament in an evacuated ( vacuum) bulb. It was discovered that the family of elements known as " halogens" were more inert than a vacuum , as in hot elements were less likley to reach their combustable threashold. So what happened was a 9volt filament (which would have burnt out in an evacuated bulb running 12 volt) would run reliably on 12 volts if the environment around the filament was a halogen gas.Because the bulb is running a lot hotter the glass used had to be of a higher quartz content in the silica sand used to make the glass, (normal glass would melt)
hence quite rightly as you say the "quartz iodine" lamp was born.
Like I said Al what you have read could be correct but it sounded a bit star wars to me.
Thanks for the info on the SS hid brackets , I have just fitted the PIAA's to Owl28's but I didnt think the brackets were over substantial IMO , so I'm toying with the idea of FF1000's with 35W HID's or possibly the SS ones( and we all know how much you like them )

Thanks for the info Al


Steve