Noisy passenger central locking
#1
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My passenger Central locking has become really noisy like it is about to seize, I read on here it only needs a drop of oil in the correct place, But they didn't now where. Any ideas Anybody
Thanks
Dean
Thanks
Dean
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If it sounds like it's about to seize, you might be right, as the internals aren't too substantial, and thus a trip to the breakers for another one might be the most practical option. Stripping down the lock actuator is a pain, as it's a sealed unit, but it can be done.
To get the actuator out, remove the door trim and then the vapour shield from the back part of the door. Take a look at the rods going from the external and internal door handles/lock, and make a note of which ones go where, then undo the swing clips and remove them from the lock. You'll also need to reach in and disconnect the black plug and cable from the actuator. It has a clip you have to push to release it.
Undo the three large Philips screws from the lock itself, and the 12mm (I think!) bolt at the bottom of the actuator, then manouevre the entire assembly out of the door.
Once you've got it out, the actuator will come off if you undo the two screws that hold it to the lock.
After that, you have to decide whether you're going to try and strip that one or get another from the dismantlers. If it's making nasty noises, a new one may be the safest bet.
If you want to go ahead, you should be able to get the top off the actuator by sliding a sharp Stanley blade all the way around the bond line. Try not to go too far in as there are two locator pins that you want to keep if you can.
Once the top is off, check nothing is broken, add your chosen lubricant (a teflon loaded light grease is good), then re-seal the actuator with a small bead of Araldite or similar. Reassembly is the same process backwards!
To get the actuator out, remove the door trim and then the vapour shield from the back part of the door. Take a look at the rods going from the external and internal door handles/lock, and make a note of which ones go where, then undo the swing clips and remove them from the lock. You'll also need to reach in and disconnect the black plug and cable from the actuator. It has a clip you have to push to release it.
Undo the three large Philips screws from the lock itself, and the 12mm (I think!) bolt at the bottom of the actuator, then manouevre the entire assembly out of the door.
Once you've got it out, the actuator will come off if you undo the two screws that hold it to the lock.
After that, you have to decide whether you're going to try and strip that one or get another from the dismantlers. If it's making nasty noises, a new one may be the safest bet.
If you want to go ahead, you should be able to get the top off the actuator by sliding a sharp Stanley blade all the way around the bond line. Try not to go too far in as there are two locator pins that you want to keep if you can.
Once the top is off, check nothing is broken, add your chosen lubricant (a teflon loaded light grease is good), then re-seal the actuator with a small bead of Araldite or similar. Reassembly is the same process backwards!
#3
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Cheers, Grease Monkey,
Enquired about a 2nd user unit @ Grade A & they said they were a bit rare for MY94 UK as they did not fit them to every Subaru Made, So i think i'll try the strip down first.
Dean
Enquired about a 2nd user unit @ Grade A & they said they were a bit rare for MY94 UK as they did not fit them to every Subaru Made, So i think i'll try the strip down first.
Dean
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