RetroMk1

iTrader: (1)

Been working on the car all day and got absolutly f**king nowhere!!

Trying to fit a classic dash doger cage in a blobeye porbably didnt help

front part fits quite nicely but im gonna have to trim down the rear legs by the looks of it, scratched it so much trying to fit it i've now had to rub it down and spray it

But trying to fit the sparco seats is killing me, i chopped off the standard seat mount brackets to attach my universal sliders to, but now i sit way over to the right of the steering wheel

Any advice on pow you fitted yours???????

dunx

iTrader: (3)

Any advice on fitting Rollcage/bucket seats/harnesses

Talk to your insurer first ?

LOL

dunx

leecalcars

iTrader: (37)

But trying to fit the sparco seats is killing me, i chopped off the standard seat mount brackets to attach my universal sliders to, but now i sit way over to the right of the steering wheel

bit easier with welded in seat mounts and side rails

Kirstiestar

iTrader: (2)

I fitted Recaro's from an evo 8 in my classic and had to use the brackets out a newer scoob (bugeye i think)

GC8

My advice would be that a lash-up is more likely to kill you than save you. Dont buy a used roll cage and make sure that its the correct model for your car. Follow the fitting instructions carefully and dont scrimp on the welding - all bolt-in cages need welded mountings. Race seats should be sidemounted - if you want tilt and slide then keep the original seats. If your floors are flat then you can weld a reinforcer under the floor and drill and bolt though: if not then fabricate or buy and weld in place a pair of mountings (between the sills and the transmission tunnel). Bolt through as before and dont scrimp on the quality of the bolts.

Your insurers are probably going to have puppies when you mention a cage! Id mount it all but then remove the front, as this should make the car insurable. The reality is that the front section of the cage is more likey to kill you than protect you in a crash on the road - especially if you havent mounted your seats on the floor properly.....

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

I have a weld in cage which i paid someone else to do, but I'm fitting the seats myself.

My seats are base mounted, but what I ended up trying was to use the original sliding rails from the WRX seats. This solution put me in a half decent position in the car and retained the sliding rails, but in the end it just didn't feel "solid" enough because the sliding rails have a little bit of flex etc etc and it all adds up.

Now I've butchered the original frames and just kept the lower part of the original sliders (i.e. the parts that bolt to the floor). I then welded some metal bars to frames and mounted the seats on them. It's really solid now, so happy with that.

I must say, though, that I'm surprised how difficult it turned out to be to fit seats. I thought it'd be a "piece of ****", but it's far from it.

If you can buy a car specific kit for your seats + car, then it's well worth doing, even if they cost a bit of money IMO.

RetroMk1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah i know what you mean about lashing it up. Its all gonna be finished to a high standard and more solid than original but i cant believe how much sh*t it's given me.

I have ended up only using the front part of the cage and welding a cross section in the back.

Seats have omp side mounts on universal sliders with the oem brackets welded to them to attach to floor.

Slowly getting there