Part 2; A guide to installing a pillar mounted oil temp and boost gauge in an MY01
26 January 2006, 08:45 PM
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Part 2; A guide to installing a pillar mounted oil temp and boost gauge in an MY01
PART 2
A pictorial guide to installing a pillar mounted oil temp and boost gauge in an MY01 WRX
Remove the intercooler to gain access to the oil galley plug above number three cylinder this also allows better access to the dump valve pipe and clear runs for your pipe and wire.
The intercooler is removed by the following method
I also disconnected the breather pipes above this plug to make access clear
Once you have removed this plug be very careful not to drop ANYTHING down this hole or you will be in the Sh*t!!
With the plug removed you will see the oil way complete with oil! Wipe the mating face clean and install the Sensor adapter which was supplied by LMA products part number LMA067/M M18*1.5 to M10*1 this adapter comes with 2 excellent seals so no PTFE is needed if your using a straight non tapered thread. Some sender units use a taper NPT thread you will need a different adapter from LMA check this first! You may also need PTFE tape with the taper thread type but again check with LMA. If you install the J3s then use the above part number.
The above picture showing the sender and the LMA adapter with seals
Install the adapter and seal first using some thread locker and a good socket but DO NOT over tighten, next install the sender with the seal and some thread lock, tighten with a deep socket but once again DO NOT over tighten
Now with adapter and sender installed!
Crimp a good quality ring terminal to a 3mtr length of cable and cover the cable with heat proof fibre glass sleeve or tape if you can’t get any, mine came from a electrical retailer, cover the rear of the ring terminal with about 40mm’s of heat shrink this will seal the terminal to the cable sleeve making a weather proof joint. Slide on a terminal cover sourced from a good motor factor and install. Remove the nut and lock washer from the sender and fit the ring terminal, lock washer and nut. Apply a little thread locker and nip the lock nut do NOT over tighten or you could damage the sender!
Cable installed with terminal cover. Now run the cable across the block follow existing wires and cable tied in place, loosely run round to the grommet near the brake servo
Next the Boost pipe; Cut the pipe feeding the dump valve just before it joins the inlet manifold
Insert the “T” piece into the cut pipe after warming with a hot air gun, this make a great seal. Now connect your length of good quality vacuum hose to the “T” outlet (the outlet of the “T” has a small brass reducer, this stabilises the gauge) use the hot air gun again to make the pipe soft and easy to push on.
Before refitting the dump valve pipe I applied a few wraps of thinly cut self amalgamating tape to cover the joint before pushing the rubber protection sleeve back down the pipe (below), this is not necessary but makes the joint look tidy!
Refit the dump valve pipe to the throttle body and dump valve, route the newly attached pipe for the boost gauge along with the oil wire along side and following the cars wiring and pipe along to and across the bulkhead and down to the grommet near the brake servo.
Carefully make a small slit in the grommet next to the alarm wire that already passes through and push your boost pipe and oil temp wire all the way through into the car.
Cable tie any slack to make the job look neat.
Next cut (but not too short!) the oil temp wire and boost pipe to length inside the car, crimp male spade on the oil temp wire and plug it into the female socket you’ve previously fitted. Cable tie up any slack so it does not catch on any moving part (below)
Next warm the boost pipe with the hot air gun and push this firm onto the hard plastic boost pipe (if your using this method) and attach a cable tie when this cools it makes an excellent seal. Once again cable tie the pipe out of the way of all moving parts
Before you refit the intercooler remember to reconnect the oil breather pipe above the No3 cylinder oil way plug if you removed this! Then apply a little silicone sealer around the oil temp and boost pipe where they pass through the grommet to reduce the chance of any water tracking through into the cabin area.
Now refit the inter cooler, I find it easier to disconnect the “Y” pipe from the IC, fit this first to the Turbo then fit the IC to the throttle body hose and lower in place. The four bolts holding the “Y” pipe to IC can be installed from underneath using a small ratchet and a bit of patience! This is only my personal preference and others may disagree and just leave the pipe in place and force it back on, either way works
Once the IC is in place tighten up all the Jubilee clips, the mounting bolts and refit the air bypass pipes. Refit the strut brace now if you have one.
With all the work completed under the bonnet its time to insert the fuses, (I used a 4A for the +12s and a 3A for the +12v lighting feed) and turn on the ignition! With the ignition turned on the gauges should light up nicely, if you turn on the side light when using the J3s they should dim slightly, if all seems ok start the engine and away you go! The boost gauge should go to vacuum with the engine idling, if you blip the throttle then it will rise towards the zero but you need to drive the car under load for it to show boost. Check that no oil is leaking from around the oil temp sender above No3 if ok then go for a gentle drive to warm things up, you oil temp gauge should start to climb after a mile or two! With the engine warm and the oil temp up its time to have a little fun and enjoy all your hard work and see that boost gauge rise J. When you return home have a final check that no oil is leaking from the oil temp sender and hopefully with no annoying rattles from the gauge pod drill a 3mm hole in the A-pillar trim for the pod fixing screw and install the screw and your done!!!!
I hope you find this article of some use if you’re planning a similar installation to mine, but remember any of this information shown here is used at your own risk and as a guide only!
If you require anymore info or a copy of this in PDF format then drop me a PM, your comments are also welcome
Have fun
Reub.
(Goto Part 1) http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=487267
A pictorial guide to installing a pillar mounted oil temp and boost gauge in an MY01 WRX
Remove the intercooler to gain access to the oil galley plug above number three cylinder this also allows better access to the dump valve pipe and clear runs for your pipe and wire.
The intercooler is removed by the following method
- Remove your strut brace if you have the larger STi TMIC
- Disconnect the three pipes connected to the metal pipe bolted to the IC
- Loosen the upper jubilee clip on the IC to Throttle body hose
- Loosen the Jubilee clip connecting the IC hose to the Turbo
- Remove 2 IC mounting bolts
- Push backwards and pull clear the IC and set it two one side
I also disconnected the breather pipes above this plug to make access clear
Once you have removed this plug be very careful not to drop ANYTHING down this hole or you will be in the Sh*t!!
With the plug removed you will see the oil way complete with oil! Wipe the mating face clean and install the Sensor adapter which was supplied by LMA products part number LMA067/M M18*1.5 to M10*1 this adapter comes with 2 excellent seals so no PTFE is needed if your using a straight non tapered thread. Some sender units use a taper NPT thread you will need a different adapter from LMA check this first! You may also need PTFE tape with the taper thread type but again check with LMA. If you install the J3s then use the above part number.
The above picture showing the sender and the LMA adapter with seals
Install the adapter and seal first using some thread locker and a good socket but DO NOT over tighten, next install the sender with the seal and some thread lock, tighten with a deep socket but once again DO NOT over tighten
Now with adapter and sender installed!
Crimp a good quality ring terminal to a 3mtr length of cable and cover the cable with heat proof fibre glass sleeve or tape if you can’t get any, mine came from a electrical retailer, cover the rear of the ring terminal with about 40mm’s of heat shrink this will seal the terminal to the cable sleeve making a weather proof joint. Slide on a terminal cover sourced from a good motor factor and install. Remove the nut and lock washer from the sender and fit the ring terminal, lock washer and nut. Apply a little thread locker and nip the lock nut do NOT over tighten or you could damage the sender!
Cable installed with terminal cover. Now run the cable across the block follow existing wires and cable tied in place, loosely run round to the grommet near the brake servo
Next the Boost pipe; Cut the pipe feeding the dump valve just before it joins the inlet manifold
Insert the “T” piece into the cut pipe after warming with a hot air gun, this make a great seal. Now connect your length of good quality vacuum hose to the “T” outlet (the outlet of the “T” has a small brass reducer, this stabilises the gauge) use the hot air gun again to make the pipe soft and easy to push on.
Before refitting the dump valve pipe I applied a few wraps of thinly cut self amalgamating tape to cover the joint before pushing the rubber protection sleeve back down the pipe (below), this is not necessary but makes the joint look tidy!
Refit the dump valve pipe to the throttle body and dump valve, route the newly attached pipe for the boost gauge along with the oil wire along side and following the cars wiring and pipe along to and across the bulkhead and down to the grommet near the brake servo.
Carefully make a small slit in the grommet next to the alarm wire that already passes through and push your boost pipe and oil temp wire all the way through into the car.
Cable tie any slack to make the job look neat.
Next cut (but not too short!) the oil temp wire and boost pipe to length inside the car, crimp male spade on the oil temp wire and plug it into the female socket you’ve previously fitted. Cable tie up any slack so it does not catch on any moving part (below)
Next warm the boost pipe with the hot air gun and push this firm onto the hard plastic boost pipe (if your using this method) and attach a cable tie when this cools it makes an excellent seal. Once again cable tie the pipe out of the way of all moving parts
Before you refit the intercooler remember to reconnect the oil breather pipe above the No3 cylinder oil way plug if you removed this! Then apply a little silicone sealer around the oil temp and boost pipe where they pass through the grommet to reduce the chance of any water tracking through into the cabin area.
Now refit the inter cooler, I find it easier to disconnect the “Y” pipe from the IC, fit this first to the Turbo then fit the IC to the throttle body hose and lower in place. The four bolts holding the “Y” pipe to IC can be installed from underneath using a small ratchet and a bit of patience! This is only my personal preference and others may disagree and just leave the pipe in place and force it back on, either way works
Once the IC is in place tighten up all the Jubilee clips, the mounting bolts and refit the air bypass pipes. Refit the strut brace now if you have one.
With all the work completed under the bonnet its time to insert the fuses, (I used a 4A for the +12s and a 3A for the +12v lighting feed) and turn on the ignition! With the ignition turned on the gauges should light up nicely, if you turn on the side light when using the J3s they should dim slightly, if all seems ok start the engine and away you go! The boost gauge should go to vacuum with the engine idling, if you blip the throttle then it will rise towards the zero but you need to drive the car under load for it to show boost. Check that no oil is leaking from around the oil temp sender above No3 if ok then go for a gentle drive to warm things up, you oil temp gauge should start to climb after a mile or two! With the engine warm and the oil temp up its time to have a little fun and enjoy all your hard work and see that boost gauge rise J. When you return home have a final check that no oil is leaking from the oil temp sender and hopefully with no annoying rattles from the gauge pod drill a 3mm hole in the A-pillar trim for the pod fixing screw and install the screw and your done!!!!
I hope you find this article of some use if you’re planning a similar installation to mine, but remember any of this information shown here is used at your own risk and as a guide only!
If you require anymore info or a copy of this in PDF format then drop me a PM, your comments are also welcome
Have fun
Reub.
(Goto Part 1) http://bbs.scoobynet.co.uk/showthread.php?t=487267
Last edited by reub; 26 January 2006 at 08:50 PM.
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