http://www.cotton.dk/images/sub/

I just (almost) finished building it, sounds amazing and shakes the whole car. I used Blaubox to get the box dimensions and designed it on QCad for Linux. It's an Infinity 1020W 10" Reference sub, the contacts and port I took from my old box. MDF is 18mm, glued first then pinned with long panel pins and sealed with sealant. I'll cover it in some carpet later but I definitely recommend designing your own properly tuned box, it sounds so much better. The cat is for size reference

Steve.

 

Looks good, could you post the actual overall dimensions and possibly individual panel sizes?.

 

Nice *****

Where did you get the dimensions from, or was it your own design. I have a Kenwood MDF box, but takes up to much room in the boot and is very poorly designed. I was thinking about designing my own stealth box, that fits on the right hand side of the boot, but wondered the sort of internal dimensions (Volume) I'd be looking for a 12 inch JBL sub.

Cheers Phill C

 

I got what dimensions I needed (size of the vent, enclosures, etc) from Blaubox. If you want the actual .vxf file you're more than welcome, contains a complete blueprint and should be usable with most CAD proggies. Unless you're using exactly the same sub you'll need slightly different dimensions but for mine, each box is 1.03 cubic feet, the port is 3 inches in diameter. I looked at doing a showy install but decided on sound quality instead, building the box to the sub instead of to the car. For a 12" sub you'll need far more room (even for the 'average' sealed enclosure) than a stealth install allows. Get yourself Blaubox and see how big it needs to be, then try and fit it where you want it.

Sizes:

Overall length: 768mm
Height: 340mm
MDF thickness: 18mm

Each enclosure is (roughly) 12 x 12 x 13 inches.

Steve.

[Edited by stevencotton - 03/01/2002 15:09:15]

 

Steve, Does this program include plans for a JLAudio 8W6 speaker??
I too am wanting to build better enclosure. If so could you let me have the Plans/sizes etc



Thanks

Luke
07958 425508

 

Nope, you need to get the specifications of your sub, and box sizes are calculated according to that. I'm using a Rockford Fosgate 250.2 to drive the sub.

Steve.

 

Steve , I can provide full details, Would you mind running through your "Blaubox program for me???

Luke

 

It'll be better if you download it yourself, then you can look at response curves and maybe print out a plan for the box

http://www.blaupunktusa.com/speakers...x_program.html

Steve.

 

Hmm - nice program - I like the idea of a monkey driving a car!

Only problem is the usual - it only models normal shapes Can't do funny fit-into-the-corner-of-the-boot shapes 'n stuff like that. Bummer (said Dougal)

Don't suppose you've seen a modelling program where you can specify the shape in more detail, have you? I want to put a pair of Phase-Linear Alliante 8's in the front doors of my Legacy!

 

Steve.

Cheers


Luke

 

Globbits -
Just get the volume from the program, & then start doing that stuff we all learnt at school & then forgot as it's useless - note the shape of where you want to fit the box, then 'slice it up' into standard boxes/triangles (or rather their approximations) & keeping adding them up until the volume matches that required by the sub. It's rather tedious, but works.
The most important thing to remember is that you're working to internal volume, not to external, especially when doing it this way round. The thickness of the MDF makes a suprising difference to the volume achievable in a given space.
It's possible to increase the effective internal volume by around 10% (I think) by adding foam to the sides of the box. I forget if BlauBox can cater for this or not - as far as I remember, it can't.
And anyway, despite how accurate the graphs are, this isn't really an exact science. The lengths of the sides does make a difference, but the internal volume is the most important. In some ways, a wierd-shaped box is better 'cos it means that there should be no scope for standing waves to build up. You might be in trouble if you're trying to do a bandpass box, though - they're pretty fussy...

 

Yeah - I usually do that. But, the trouble is if you get a really odd shape - like when you're desperately trying to increase the volume by another 0.1cu ft, to achieve the optimum, then you can get some weird resonance points. That's what I'm trying to plot/cancel out.

In any case, I just love the raspy throat syndrome, after spending two days chopping up bits of MDF for yet another sub-box, so I'm happy to try try again

 

What are you using to drive your sub?

[Edited by audio g man - 1/12/2002 10:46:07 PM]