Pic request - Dynomat Installs.
#1
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Surviving as a soldier of fortune on the Los Angeles underground...
Posts: 7,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pic request - Dynomat Installs.
I could do with sound-deadening my front doors on MY00, they rattle a bit with the OE speakers so god knows what they're going to be like when I get the Infinity 6500cs' fitted.
Does anyone have any pictures of dynomat installations - just wondering where to actually put the stuff.
Does anyone have any pictures of dynomat installations - just wondering where to actually put the stuff.
#2
Put it on the door skins inside the door, on the very outside skin as that makes the most difference, then put it on the inside skin inside the door, and finally on the front of the door with the door card off.
The rattles are probably from the plastic membrane. I removed this, and there's no problems doing so because the door cards are plastic, not card, so it doesn't matter if they get a little bit wet.
The rattles are probably from the plastic membrane. I removed this, and there's no problems doing so because the door cards are plastic, not card, so it doesn't matter if they get a little bit wet.
#3
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Surviving as a soldier of fortune on the Los Angeles underground...
Posts: 7,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't quite follow you.
Do you mean that when I've removed the door card, put the dynomat on the outer skin - ie on the other side of the window mechanism, then where? onto the back of the door card?
Do you mean that when I've removed the door card, put the dynomat on the outer skin - ie on the other side of the window mechanism, then where? onto the back of the door card?
#4
Correct, other side of the window mechanism is spot on.
Put nothing on the door card.
Put some bits on inside of the door skin (this side of the window, but still inside the door). If you really feel the need, put some bits on the front of the door skin.
Put nothing on the door card.
Put some bits on inside of the door skin (this side of the window, but still inside the door). If you really feel the need, put some bits on the front of the door skin.
#5
Originally Posted by chiark
Correct, other side of the window mechanism is spot on.
Put nothing on the door card.
Put some bits on inside of the door skin (this side of the window, but still inside the door). If you really feel the need, put some bits on the front of the door skin.
Put nothing on the door card.
Put some bits on inside of the door skin (this side of the window, but still inside the door). If you really feel the need, put some bits on the front of the door skin.
Think I might have a go at this the weekend. Do you know that doing your indoors speakers works as well?
Phill
#6
Originally Posted by chiark
Correct, other side of the window mechanism is spot on.
Put nothing on the door card.
Put some bits on inside of the door skin (this side of the window, but still inside the door). If you really feel the need, put some bits on the front of the door skin.
Put nothing on the door card.
Put some bits on inside of the door skin (this side of the window, but still inside the door). If you really feel the need, put some bits on the front of the door skin.
Phill
#7
I actually need to whap em off tonight to fit new speakers for the car's buyer... So yes, I'll do that . But the really annoying flapping/slapping sound is from the plastic membrane...
Last edited by chiark; 24 February 2005 at 06:03 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by chiark
I actually need to whap em off tonight to fit new speakers for the car's buyer... So yes, I'll do that . But the really annoying flapping/slapping sound is from the plastic membrane...
Thanks mate, Phill
#9
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Surviving as a soldier of fortune on the Los Angeles underground...
Posts: 7,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've removed most of the plastic membrane, it was half ripped anyway. The main rattle I get in the door is right below the glass at the back (sort of where your shoulder is).
#13
Just fitted Xplode 1200w Subwoofer with an amp in my boot
Great when the lids open,shut it and the whole back end rattles like an old dustbin.
Bought some of that Dynamat, struggled to make it actually stick and what has stuck doesnt appear to have made much difference.
Can anybody shed any light on which panels are best to fit this stuff to or any other product which may help.
Cheers
Great when the lids open,shut it and the whole back end rattles like an old dustbin.
Bought some of that Dynamat, struggled to make it actually stick and what has stuck doesnt appear to have made much difference.
Can anybody shed any light on which panels are best to fit this stuff to or any other product which may help.
Cheers
#16
Originally Posted by gazman
Just fitted Xplode 1200w Subwoofer with an amp in my boot
Great when the lids open,shut it and the whole back end rattles like an old dustbin.
Bought some of that Dynamat, struggled to make it actually stick and what has stuck doesnt appear to have made much difference.
Can anybody shed any light on which panels are best to fit this stuff to or any other product which may help.
Cheers
Great when the lids open,shut it and the whole back end rattles like an old dustbin.
Bought some of that Dynamat, struggled to make it actually stick and what has stuck doesnt appear to have made much difference.
Can anybody shed any light on which panels are best to fit this stuff to or any other product which may help.
Cheers
#18
David's right - I actually used a hot air gun to warm the stuff up. Hairdryers didn't really cut the mustard to get the 'kin stuff workable and sticky.
You need to make absolutely 100% sure that the surface that you're sticking to is free from grime, grease and all sorts of stuff. Use some panel wipe or similar to get rid of the crap that is on there.
You need to make absolutely 100% sure that the surface that you're sticking to is free from grime, grease and all sorts of stuff. Use some panel wipe or similar to get rid of the crap that is on there.
#19
Originally Posted by chiark
David's right - I actually used a hot air gun to warm the stuff up. Hairdryers didn't really cut the mustard to get the 'kin stuff workable and sticky.
You need to make absolutely 100% sure that the surface that you're sticking to is free from grime, grease and all sorts of stuff. Use some panel wipe or similar to get rid of the crap that is on there.
You need to make absolutely 100% sure that the surface that you're sticking to is free from grime, grease and all sorts of stuff. Use some panel wipe or similar to get rid of the crap that is on there.
Has anyone got the pictures sorted out yet? I want to do my doors and boot in preparation for my new V12 mono amps I can turn my four channel V12 up loads, but don't due to the rattles and vibrations
Oh no, I hope the car stays in one piece
Phill
#20
any piccs of dynamatt install yet as my doors and boot rattle like f**k.
put new infinitys in today running of kenwood amp and sub in boot.
put new infinitys in today running of kenwood amp and sub in boot.
Originally Posted by babber
Heat gun is the way forward. I heated the panel from the inside carefully, then heated the matting. Sticks like **** to a blanket.
Has anyone got the pictures sorted out yet? I want to do my doors and boot in preparation for my new V12 mono amps I can turn my four channel V12 up loads, but don't due to the rattles and vibrations
Oh no, I hope the car stays in one piece
Phill
Has anyone got the pictures sorted out yet? I want to do my doors and boot in preparation for my new V12 mono amps I can turn my four channel V12 up loads, but don't due to the rattles and vibrations
Oh no, I hope the car stays in one piece
Phill
#21
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Messiah - Here you go mate.....(this was when i done MY00)
Door Panel Removed
Plastic Skin Removed
Half completed
Completed Inc Inner Skin
Spks and Cross Overs Fitted
I hope this helps mate.....
The Whole thing makes a massive difference mate, and if you know where to go you can do both doors for £20! (inner skin too ) Also you get a nice Thud! when you close the doors......nice.
Door Panel Removed
Plastic Skin Removed
Half completed
Completed Inc Inner Skin
Spks and Cross Overs Fitted
I hope this helps mate.....
The Whole thing makes a massive difference mate, and if you know where to go you can do both doors for £20! (inner skin too ) Also you get a nice Thud! when you close the doors......nice.
#26
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Surviving as a soldier of fortune on the Los Angeles underground...
Posts: 7,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
nice one darms
how long did that lot take?
what did you use to fix the crossovers in place?
how long did that lot take?
what did you use to fix the crossovers in place?
#27
Originally Posted by darms
Let me make a few calls tomorrow Horico - its a trade supplier but for cash they supply to the public. (I''ll get there address and telephone number)
NB: its not marked up at Dynomat - Simply Sound deadening pads (Works for me!)
NB: its not marked up at Dynomat - Simply Sound deadening pads (Works for me!)
Reckon there would be a fair bit of interest for this if it is good stuff.
#28
Scooby Regular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Surviving as a soldier of fortune on the Los Angeles underground...
Posts: 7,181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by darms
Half completed
Completed Inc Inner Skin
Completed Inc Inner Skin
#30
Scooby Regular
iTrader: (5)
Horico
Been flat out today mate, I'll try and get their details by the end of the week
Messiah
It isn’t hard at all mate. Take ya time though, took me a good few hours to do each door (don’t forget to clean the surface with a solvent cleaner or some petrol before applying it and make sure you’ve heated it up really well). Suppose it also depends on how far ya prepared to go......I ran high grade speaker cables through the existing door conduit too (what a b1tch that was!).
Oh yeah I used Bathroom silicone sealant to stick the crossovers and also put a thin layer of sealant on the custom MDF Spacers (they'll get wet when it rains - dont ask me where water comes in from, but i drove round for a while without the door cards and saw the water - Better to be safe hey! ). Lucky I did, as after a month everything had to come out again Windows were being replaced by Subaru due to the usual scratches.
Been flat out today mate, I'll try and get their details by the end of the week
Messiah
It isn’t hard at all mate. Take ya time though, took me a good few hours to do each door (don’t forget to clean the surface with a solvent cleaner or some petrol before applying it and make sure you’ve heated it up really well). Suppose it also depends on how far ya prepared to go......I ran high grade speaker cables through the existing door conduit too (what a b1tch that was!).
Oh yeah I used Bathroom silicone sealant to stick the crossovers and also put a thin layer of sealant on the custom MDF Spacers (they'll get wet when it rains - dont ask me where water comes in from, but i drove round for a while without the door cards and saw the water - Better to be safe hey! ). Lucky I did, as after a month everything had to come out again Windows were being replaced by Subaru due to the usual scratches.
Last edited by darms; 04 April 2005 at 10:05 PM.