Will fitting a sub help farting?
#1
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Will fitting a sub help farting?
ive got some 4way 360W 6x9's and some 3way 400W 6x9's but they keep farting.
i dont have an amp, only a Pioneer 3500mp H/U. im trying to put all the bass to the back 3 ways but they still fart a bit.
if i put in a 600W sub in there will the farting stop?
i dont have an amp, only a Pioneer 3500mp H/U. im trying to put all the bass to the back 3 ways but they still fart a bit.
if i put in a 600W sub in there will the farting stop?
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I'd have thought that the farting from the bottom end was caused by the fact that your just using the head unit's in-built amp, which won't have anywhere near the rating to cope with your 6*9's so the amp will be driving to the point of distortion as you generally don't get a missive amount of useable power out of them. Adding a sub and using a cross-over to split the frequencies so the sub handles the bass should sort it out.
A good rule to go by is that 1: your amp should be matched to your speakers as far as load and power are concerned, and 2: if you can afford it, get amps and speakers rated at twice what you require, that way you avoid distortion and run the amp at it's sweet spot, it'll sound and perform better. At least that's the logic that I employ with guitar amps and PA systems.
Hope that helps mate
James
A good rule to go by is that 1: your amp should be matched to your speakers as far as load and power are concerned, and 2: if you can afford it, get amps and speakers rated at twice what you require, that way you avoid distortion and run the amp at it's sweet spot, it'll sound and perform better. At least that's the logic that I employ with guitar amps and PA systems.
Hope that helps mate
James
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The 'farting' is probably due to trying to load too much low frequency energy through the speakers, exceeding the available excursion. Putting a sub in would cure this, but only if you run a high pass filter on the 6x9's.
The scenario James mentions could also be the case, although if you are overdriving the amplifier this is generally realised as 'clipping' which is more audiable in the higher frequencies - do this for too long and it's a sure way of releasing smoke from your speakers
As a rule of thumb I would have twice as much amplifier power (RMS) as the speakers are rated for to protect them from clipping.
Rich
The scenario James mentions could also be the case, although if you are overdriving the amplifier this is generally realised as 'clipping' which is more audiable in the higher frequencies - do this for too long and it's a sure way of releasing smoke from your speakers
As a rule of thumb I would have twice as much amplifier power (RMS) as the speakers are rated for to protect them from clipping.
Rich
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I'd try just a sub first, providing you can hpf the fronts from the head unit - that effectively frees up more amplifier power as the speakers are dealing with a smaller bandwidth, so it would drive the speakers better. A 200W amp shouldn't be small - don't believe everything you read in car audio manufacturers specs
Rich
Rich
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so instead of:
3way-- --3way <-rear
l l
l l
H/U
l l
l l
4way-- --4way <-front
have
SUB <-rear
l
l
H/U
l l
l l
3way+ 3way+
4way+ 4way <-front
wHats the mean?
3way-- --3way <-rear
l l
l l
H/U
l l
l l
4way-- --4way <-front
have
SUB <-rear
l
l
H/U
l l
l l
3way+ 3way+
4way+ 4way <-front
providing you can hpf the fronts
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Connect the Front speakers to the front channels on the head unit, and the rear speakers to the rear outputs. Connect the sub amplifier to the head units line level outputs. HPF and LPF are high pass and low pass filters. The HPF removes the low frequency sound from the signal to the main speakers (which are less capable of delivering the low frequency sound) while the LPF removes the high frequency sounds which the sub woofer can't deal with.
Rich
Rich
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