How do I remove the double din unit in my WRX?
04 June 2002, 07:58 PM
#1
Hi,
New shape WRX and I want to pull the standard head unit out. But for the life off me I cant see any obvious ways to do this - er anyone done it, if so how! thanks
Andy
New shape WRX and I want to pull the standard head unit out. But for the life off me I cant see any obvious ways to do this - er anyone done it, if so how! thanks
Andy
08 June 2002, 11:07 AM
#4
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I have added an MY01 headunit fitting section to the FAQ.
Could someone check this out, and post comments (such as more detailed instructions?
Ta,
Nick.
Could someone check this out, and post comments (such as more detailed instructions?
Ta,
Nick.
08 June 2002, 09:13 PM
#5
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Ok Chiark and the rest of the world, Here goes.
This is for new shape 01 and 02 Imprezas.
I've done 2 now, the last was this afternoon 08/06/02. Alpine units went in both with no problems at all.
B4 installation have a look at the type of aerial connection your new head unit uses. Does it have a small hole about an inch deep or does it have a small stud? The car's own aerial plug is a male type which plugs into the small inch deep hole. If yours has the stud you'll have to purchase a male-to-female aerial adaptor.
First off, you can do this job with no more than just a no.2 phillips screwdriver and maybe some insulation tape. Use your FINGERS to pull off trim as levering it with tools will mark or damage the trim/dash. Work from the passenger side.
Open the cup holder You'll see 1 phillips screw on each side of it. whip 'em out.
Now gently pull on the cup holder to remove it. A little manipulation maybe required, but it should come out, if it doesn't, do this:
The piece of trim shaped like the letter D on it's side (which contains the centre heater vents and hazard lights switch) can come out to make it easier. Open the cup holder and remove the 2 phillips screws. Place a couple of fingers under the trim where the front of the cup holder would normally be when it's closed and pull it out left-side first, (there is just 1 plastic clip on each side). Run your fingers along the top and bottom pulling as you go. Eventually you'll be able to pull out the right side.
Disconnect the hazard lights switch plug and put that assembly to one side. Then the cup holder will practically fall out.
Now to remove the trim around the head unit; there are four clips holding it in, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. It comes out as one whole piece including the heater and air-con controls.
Put eight fingers on the top ledge (four on each side obviously...lol) and pull it out at the top. Work your fingers down each side until you can pull it out at the bottom. Once it's out you'll find the wiring loom going to the heater controls and also a tube. Leave these connected and just rest the trim against the gear stick.
Now you have plenty of access to work.
Remove the 6 black screws and carefully pull out the radio. Disconnect the wiring loom, aerial wire and the earth wire on the right side of the head unit by pressing on the black plug (you'll feel the clip move in), then pull it off.
Remove the 4 screws from each side of the unit to detach the 2 side brackets.
Now to fit your new head unit. You will need an Autoleads PC2-44-4 and a black plastic pocket available from your local friendly Subaru dealer. Prices are about £11.00 and £15.00 respectively.
Most head units have removable trims fitted around the removable front panel. In most, if not all cases this will have to be removed by unclipping it. Some are fixed on with a couple of screws which is the case with the Blaupunkt Woodstock. With this unit you also have to remove the cage locking-in clips on each side too. I fitted a Woodstock a couple of weeks ago into a Jap import and the job was much the same as I'm describing now.
Fit the side brackets to the pocket first. The pocket goes at the bottom and the radio goes above it.
You will find a stud each side of the pocket which pushes into one of the screw holes in the brackets, then 1 screw through the other hole and into the pocket at each side.
You should find holes at each side of the new unit which will line up with the holes in the brackets. Alpine units have these holes and they are threaded, they are also supplied with the correct screws which makes the job very easy. Some manufacturers do not supply these screws and some units do not have threaded holes.
If screws are not provided you may be able to use the original items you removed from the factory unit, but I doubt this will be possible. Take note of the maximum screw length allowed usually stamped somewhere on the unit. Also see below.
If the holes are not threaded or if there aren't any holes in the sides of the new unit, the best thing to do is line the front of the unit up with the front of the pocket and tape the unit to the pocket and brackets using electrical insulation tape. Hopefully this will keep it all in place unless you can think of a better way to do it! :-)
Now plug the Autoleads adaptor into the Subaru plug and plug the new unit's loom into that (if the new unit comes with one) and plug that into the unit. Plug in the aerial and the black earth wire back onto the bracket.
Carefully put the whole thing back into the dash and test it.
Hopefully it's working so now replace the six mounting screws.
Replace the trim with the heater controls in bottom first and push in the top.
Replace the top piece not forgetting to put the plug back into the hazard lights switch. Push the cup holder back in and replace the 2 screws and close it.
JOB DONE
Thats just lost me £thousands in fitting charges.
If only I could charge £10.00 per hit to make up for it.
Current amount of hits - 65
Print me.
[Edited by audio g man - 6/9/2002 7:06:10 PM]
This is for new shape 01 and 02 Imprezas.
I've done 2 now, the last was this afternoon 08/06/02. Alpine units went in both with no problems at all.
B4 installation have a look at the type of aerial connection your new head unit uses. Does it have a small hole about an inch deep or does it have a small stud? The car's own aerial plug is a male type which plugs into the small inch deep hole. If yours has the stud you'll have to purchase a male-to-female aerial adaptor.
First off, you can do this job with no more than just a no.2 phillips screwdriver and maybe some insulation tape. Use your FINGERS to pull off trim as levering it with tools will mark or damage the trim/dash. Work from the passenger side.
Open the cup holder You'll see 1 phillips screw on each side of it. whip 'em out.
Now gently pull on the cup holder to remove it. A little manipulation maybe required, but it should come out, if it doesn't, do this:
The piece of trim shaped like the letter D on it's side (which contains the centre heater vents and hazard lights switch) can come out to make it easier. Open the cup holder and remove the 2 phillips screws. Place a couple of fingers under the trim where the front of the cup holder would normally be when it's closed and pull it out left-side first, (there is just 1 plastic clip on each side). Run your fingers along the top and bottom pulling as you go. Eventually you'll be able to pull out the right side.
Disconnect the hazard lights switch plug and put that assembly to one side. Then the cup holder will practically fall out.
Now to remove the trim around the head unit; there are four clips holding it in, 2 at the top and 2 at the bottom. It comes out as one whole piece including the heater and air-con controls.
Put eight fingers on the top ledge (four on each side obviously...lol) and pull it out at the top. Work your fingers down each side until you can pull it out at the bottom. Once it's out you'll find the wiring loom going to the heater controls and also a tube. Leave these connected and just rest the trim against the gear stick.
Now you have plenty of access to work.
Remove the 6 black screws and carefully pull out the radio. Disconnect the wiring loom, aerial wire and the earth wire on the right side of the head unit by pressing on the black plug (you'll feel the clip move in), then pull it off.
Remove the 4 screws from each side of the unit to detach the 2 side brackets.
Now to fit your new head unit. You will need an Autoleads PC2-44-4 and a black plastic pocket available from your local friendly Subaru dealer. Prices are about £11.00 and £15.00 respectively.
Most head units have removable trims fitted around the removable front panel. In most, if not all cases this will have to be removed by unclipping it. Some are fixed on with a couple of screws which is the case with the Blaupunkt Woodstock. With this unit you also have to remove the cage locking-in clips on each side too. I fitted a Woodstock a couple of weeks ago into a Jap import and the job was much the same as I'm describing now.
Fit the side brackets to the pocket first. The pocket goes at the bottom and the radio goes above it.
You will find a stud each side of the pocket which pushes into one of the screw holes in the brackets, then 1 screw through the other hole and into the pocket at each side.
You should find holes at each side of the new unit which will line up with the holes in the brackets. Alpine units have these holes and they are threaded, they are also supplied with the correct screws which makes the job very easy. Some manufacturers do not supply these screws and some units do not have threaded holes.
If screws are not provided you may be able to use the original items you removed from the factory unit, but I doubt this will be possible. Take note of the maximum screw length allowed usually stamped somewhere on the unit. Also see below.
If the holes are not threaded or if there aren't any holes in the sides of the new unit, the best thing to do is line the front of the unit up with the front of the pocket and tape the unit to the pocket and brackets using electrical insulation tape. Hopefully this will keep it all in place unless you can think of a better way to do it! :-)
Now plug the Autoleads adaptor into the Subaru plug and plug the new unit's loom into that (if the new unit comes with one) and plug that into the unit. Plug in the aerial and the black earth wire back onto the bracket.
Carefully put the whole thing back into the dash and test it.
Hopefully it's working so now replace the six mounting screws.
Replace the trim with the heater controls in bottom first and push in the top.
Replace the top piece not forgetting to put the plug back into the hazard lights switch. Push the cup holder back in and replace the 2 screws and close it.
JOB DONE
Thats just lost me £thousands in fitting charges.
If only I could charge £10.00 per hit to make up for it.
Current amount of hits - 65
Print me.
[Edited by audio g man - 6/9/2002 7:06:10 PM]
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