Hi,
I've just received Oil Pressure, Oil Temperature and Water Temp gauges from Prosport. I've only had time to open the Oil Pressure packaging and had a quick skim of the instructions and it seems to show the sensor plugging into a mocul sandwich plate?. After a quick search i found this...?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OIL-SANDWI...item51a2a62004

Basically If possible, does anyone have a (pictured) guide to fitting these gauges, it's what sensor's I'm plugging into that's confusing me a little.

I've done a search on here with a few decent guides but I'm thick and need illustrations .

 

id use a remote adaptor for the oil pressure, it runs from the original sender hole under the alternator and the temperature fits in the hole on cylinder three under the intercooler that currently has a blanking plug in it.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/REMOTE-OIL...item20c49c204a


for water temp i cut the top hose in half and fitted one of these (not this size but i dont know what the size of you top hose is )

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/30MM-O-D-R...item53ee2088ff

 

Thanks Tubb's, I like the look of this, and wonderer if the oil temp sensor could then be plugged into the thread on the side? I presume its 1/8npt as I have'nt opened the box.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressu...item3f28c3a72b

When it stops raining I'll measure the top coolant hose, thanks .

 

i dont think the temp sender reads correctly there, i put the original sender in there and extended the wire so the oem light still works on the dash.

im pretty sure its 1/8 npt. if you have the engine out id do the temperature one in cylinder three before its in the car as its pretty hard to get at.

 

id go for this kit as it has the adaptor you fit in the hole were you remove the bung on cylinder 3, you just screw the adaptor in the hole and the sender in the adaptor.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressu...item257f914a08

 

+1

It reads more accurately too than a sandwich plate.

 

This one under the pipe near the clutch inspection cover?

 

its above cylinder 3 i think its a 10mm allen key bolt.

i cant tell from the pic but that looks like it.

 

Yea that's it, far right as you look at it, the other one is for a breather pipe.

 

Thanks, that will keep it nice an neat and shorten the wiring. With that in mind I'm thinking of keeping the water temp sensor close, running off of the cross over pipe, maybe running from the std temp sensor (on the left on the the pic above) using this if the original is will fit...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Gauge-...item3cd6822ce4

So that would screw into the cross over pipe, and the original sensor and the prosport sensor plugging into it.

 

This is what I used, comes with the nut with the hole in the centre that screws straight into the bung, then the other bits attach to it.

This is what you want.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Pressu...item257f914a08

 

I'm due to do my oil gauges soon, oil temp I'm ok with and I understand the connections on the pressure sender fitting but with the relocation kit where is the best place to to locate the block where both the senders fit into.
I've read a few threads in the states where people have had faulty oil pressure senders from prosport so was thinking of a 1mtr pipe from the plug under the alternater and relocating to the bulkhead to the right of the intercooler.
I don't fancy having to remove the I/c every time I want to replace a sender.
Pictures of where you guys have fitted relocation blocks would be a great help.
Cheers
Siv.

 

That's what we are discussing here. I'm guessing the kit that goes under the oil cooler, above the filter isn't great at reading temps. If you do as I intend and fit like Tubbs/Ditch have reccomended the sensor is about 30cm off of the block so you should be able to reach it easier. If you wanted a metre of it though I'd suggest get a -6an adapter and a metre of braided hose then a splitter like above.

 

OK, just had another look. The temp sensor taken off of the back of the water cross over is also 1/8 NPT, so I compared and have fitted the water temp sensor at the back of the water cross over pipe.
It's a little longer, and the threads don't go all the way in but neither did the standard one?. What do you think?
I'd rather know if it may not read properly now, would be a bitch to remove next millennium when the engine is fitted.




Once the engine is back in I can splice the wire and connect it to the old sensor so the temp gauge on the clocks also work.

 

You can't do that: one sender won't feed two gauges and the calibration is different.

You need that top-hose part for the original sender, make sure it has an earth tag which connects to the vehicle bodywork, or the sender can't work. Otherwise, leave the OE gauge not working. I did that originally, but I didn't like seeing it on zero, so went for the top-hose fitting. Mine was 38mm IIRC.

Sivo: your OIL PRESSURE sender either goes where the OE oil pressure SWITCH is, or fits using the part show to allow either a sender of a size that won't fit where the OE one does, OR allows you to have the OE oil pressure warning light also active.

The OIL TEMPERATURE sender should screw into an adaptor which, in turn, sits in the tappings on top of No 3 cylinder: this is important. That cylinder is known to run hottest, so placing the sender there gives a good warning of any problem developing. Elsewhere, it waill give a low reading, especially if you use any sort of remote connection.

Hope this clears things up?

 

Thanks, the thought did occur to me that the gauges were different. I'm not too bothered about the OE gauge working, and given that the original sender on the crossover was from a 20 yr old engine it may not work.
Do you think I will get a good reading from the cross over pipe with the new sender?.

On another note I've wired in the wiring for all three gauges as best I can with no oil/water temp/pressure (or an engine) .
As these change colour with the headlights being on/off, one colour wiring goes to the headlight the other to live. Is it OK to wire these live to the live already going to the gauges?
IE 3 red wires going to live, 3 orange also connecting to the same live.

 

dont the gauges come with a daisy chain cable.
i have the ones with the peak function.

on mine you wire one up to the power etc and just join the rest to the first one with a daisy chain cable

 

Yes I'm pretty much ok with how it all goes together but what I can't find are any pictures of the braided line from under the alternater going to a hard mounting point for the block that houses the original oil sender and the aftermarket one. . . ?

Siv.

 

No, they have 5 seperate wires per gauge.

Green = to whichever sensor.
Black = Earth
Red = Live
Orange and White = either headlight or live depending on colour for day/night.

I've wired up the orange to the live, to have green during the day and white once the headlights are on. This means there are 6 wires connected to the same live cable

 

ahh i see the peak versions are different but the digital ones are wired like that, yes it should be fine, the wires just detect voltage for the colours.

 

What live, earth and headlight wires did you use Dan?

 

on the newage the pod goes where the clock is you just use the wires from that.

the peak ones have a permanent live and ignition live though as it needs permanent power to save settings.

 

It doesn't: it goes to a flexible pipe and the sender screws into the end of it, the other tapping is either balnked or used for the OE oil pressure switch.

 

If you "invest" in one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUTO-CAR-L...item1c209d3025, you will be able to use it to identify which wires are which: live, headlight live, switched live etc.

 

the block (red arrow) is secured by bracket (blue arrow)

where is the best place to mount ?

or are you saying it just sits on the top of the engine ?

 

on mine i ran it under the inlet manifold and bolted it to a spare 10mm bolt hole, then tape all the wires together, made a loom and ran it into the car and get this it's cheeper
item number:130801392385

Seller assumes all responsibility for this listing.

 

I don't use one: mine runs Defis, so the the sender fits where the OE oil pressure switch did. Plus, I couldn't wait to get rid of the silly "engine fekked" light.

Therefore I can't comment, but there'll be a bolt somewhere.....

 

I have one lol, I just don't have a battery or engine installed lol.

 

Ah...of course. Silly me.