thewhitewarrior

hi,
i have a 95 wrx engine and im about to change the rods and pistons, is it possible to change the rods without splitting the engine?
any help would be good at this stage,
thanks,
phil.

Fudgey

iTrader: (1)

No

you need the heads off so you can refit the pistons

they are fitted from the top using a piston ring compressor. be careful tho as its easy to chip the rings.

thewhitewarrior

sorry, you miss understood what i ment,
is it possible to fit just the rods without splitting the engine halves?

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

No mate you have to split the block Actually don't hold me to that I did have to too get the crank out to do the main shells but I take it your leaving them alone.

Ian242

Firez34 is right, you have to split the block to change the rods.

thewhitewarrior

yeah, i spoke to JGM a bit ago and he said the same, thanks for all the replies everyone, now for the tourques for putting the halves back together, anyone know them by any chance?

Firez34

iTrader: (5)

There's a full listing on here somewhere fella, all of them but I don't have a link.

This was the guy's post that I saved to the PC.

Here you go.
Torque settings between Sti & Uk are the same.


Con Rod Big End Caps = 44.6 N.m (4.55kgf-m, 33 ft-lb)


Block Bolts:

12mm Head = 25 N.m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft-lb)

14mm Double Hex = 47 N.m (4.8 kgf-m, 34.7 ft-lb)


Sump Baffle Plate = 6.4 N.m (0.65 kgf-m, 4.7 ft-lb)


Oil Pick Up Pipe = 10 N.m (1 kgf-m, 7 ft-lb)


Sump Pan = 5 N.m (0.5 kgf-m, 3.6 ft-lb)


Cylinder Head Bolts:

The text refers to bolts A,B,C etc, they are as follows:

A = Top Middle
B = Bottom Middle
C = Top Left
D = Bottom Right
E = Bottom Left
F = Top Right

When removing Cyl head bolts, they should be undone in the following order. F E D C B A

Refitting Cyl Heads:

(1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and
bolt threads.

(2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N•m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ftlb)
in alphabetical sequence.

Then tighten all bolts to 69 N•m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ftlb)
in alphabetical sequence.

(3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off
by 180° again.

(4) Tighten bolts (A) and (B) to 34 N•m (3.5 kgfm,
25 ft-lb).

(5) Tighten bolts (C), (D), (E) and (F) to 15 N•m
(1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb).

(6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION:
Do not tighten bolts more than 90°.
(7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical
sequence.

CAUTION:
Ensure that the total “re-tightening angle” [in
the two previous steps] do not exceed 180°.


Camshaft Caps

M8 Bolts = 20 N.m (2.0 kgf-m, 14.5 ft-lb)
M6 Bolts = 10 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lb-ft)

Cam Cover = 10 N.m (1.0 kgf-m, 7.2 lb-ft)


Camshaft Timing Wheels = 98 N.m (10 kgf-m, 72.4 ft-lb)


Timing Belt Idlers = 39 N.m (4.0 kgf-m, 28.9 ft-lb)


Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket 25 N.m ( kgf-m, 18 ft-lb)


Timing Belt Tensioner = 39 N.m (4.0 kgf-m, 28.9 ft-lb)


Timing Belt Covers = 5 N.m (0.5 kgf-m, 3.6 ft-lb)


Crankshaft Pulley = 177.m (18kgf-m, 130 ft-lb


Oil Cooler Modine = 55 N.m (5.5 kgf-m, 40 ft-lb)


Water Pump = 12 N.m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft-lb) – Must be done diagonally and re-checked


Oil Pump = 6.4 N.m (0.65 kgf-m, 4.7 ft-lb)


Inlet Manifold = 25 N.m (2.5 kgf-m, 18 ft-lb)


Exhaust Manifolds = 35 M.m (3.6 kgf-m, 26 ft-lb)


Flywheel = 72 N.m (7.3 kgf-m, 52.8 lb-ft)

propofol

This youtube clip gives a great overview of the task in hand:
There are related clips for the heads too.