propermunter

I'm looking at buying one in the next few weeks and have a few questions
The ones I'm looking at are all past 110k miles, serviced by owners in later years.
Not sure if MAF sensor has been replaced, can this be cleaned?
Will putting it on a dyno show any engine problems or condition of the engine?
What fuel are they supposed to use?
Would you avoid one that's been used for towing?
What is the best oil to use?
How much would you expect to pay for a decent one?

Ste RB5138

I'd expect to pay £2500 to 3k for a decent one, check the rear arches for rust bubbling, as it quickly escalates.
Best to replace the MAF sensor, they are about £100 nowadays.

keljon

iTrader: (10)

Higher mileage isn't necessarily a problem if its looked after but expect to change bushings, wheel bearings etc

Def change the MAF (genuine only) every couple of years and dont use oiled filter elements

Dyno isnt a bad idea but if you are looking at a standard car then a road test will likely tell you all you need to know

At least super unleaded but most people use optimax or similiar

Personally i would avoid ones used for towing, they break geraboxes without the additional strain of towing as it is

Fully synthetic 5/40 is around 23 quid an oil change so no excuse to use anything else really

2 - 3k but expect prices to climb as good examples get harder to find

Also check
Rear arches
Jacking Points
Sills
Rear bumper bar (all notorious places for rust)

the fuel filler neck also corrodes badly as its a mud trap

most higher mileage models suffer with piston slap which isnt a massive problem but beware big end rattle because its an engine out 2k rebuild scenario

Turbo inlet hose perishes from oil contamination and is a pig of a job to replace (most people use a silicone replacement item)

Assuming you have the 4 pot callipers on the front (seals fail causing the pistons to rust and seize)

Gearboxes and clutches are common also