Black_beast

Put v3 sti engine into my v4sti due to old engine head going,,

V3 engine was removed from running sti and have not touched the cambelt

Fuel pump primes
I have spark on all 4 plugs
Brand new plugs
Changes crank cam sensor from engine which was working along with coil pack from old engine

I have no ecl on or stored codes

I have checked all sensor plugs etc around the engine and all are connected

All vacum lines r fitted the right way,,along with fuel lines onto the fuel rail


Will turn over and give a slight cough but then just cranks overs,,

I removed the plugs and they r wet with fuel,,


Any ideas

Iv searched high and low for answers and can't seem to find the fix

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

Is your coil pack upside down, as that would put the wrong lead on each cylinder, a common mistake.

Black_beast

I had pictures as old engine fitted (when running) and coil pack is sat with the label on the front and plug comes off from left hand side as look from the front of the car,,

So looks the same.,I'm going to swap it around as cant do no worse and would eliminate it for good

Black_beast

I had pictures as old engine fitted (when running) and coil pack is sat with the label on the front and plug comes off from left hand side as look from the front of the car,,

So looks the same.,I'm going to swap it around as cant do no worse and would eliminate it for good

ian.e

iTrader: (1)

Crank trigger wheel might be different for different versions, but if you seen it running I guess not. Unless the other ecu picks up the signal at a different time.

Black_beast

Been told the trigger wheel should be the same on classics,, its newer engines that are different,,

Well engine came from fellow members car that was up for sale then he decided to break for parts to regain his money that way so had to take his word


Looks like I'm going have to investigate the timing belt,,

If I crank it over by hand will all the timing marks return to tdc?

Surely if they do and one is out I found the problem?

ian.e

iTrader: (1)

Yeah all the pulley marks should line up, don't bother with the white lines on the belt though, they never correspond to the pulley marks after a few turns of the engine. Worth putting a new belt on anyway, old one might be past it's best.

Black_beast

Ok think il check ok il check belt area,,let u know what out come is

ukpaisley

iTrader: (4)

I had sort of the same problem, my timing was out.

Black_beast

Yeah I'm going to look tomorrow night at timing, just unsure to as why when was ment be straight out a running car :/

Black_beast

Well just removed timing covers,, all cams seem to line up tdc,, and are exactly at thr sand postionnas ones on my old engine!

All tho the cam gear cog on my v4 is all made from plastic and is solid in the middle

Yet the v3 engine ones are metal and have about 6 spokes on the inner part connect it to the outer,,

Someone said the sprockets maybe different?

Any info OB this and weather I need my old ones off the v4 engine onto the v3?

paul.cotty

has the guy you bought th engine off still got the ecu for that engine if so swap it and see if it starts that way

Black_beast

He was not using the stock ecu

paul.cotty

Have the cats been change that might put yr timing out

paul.cotty

Sorry cams not cats

Black_beast

Nothing should been changed both standard engines

Black_beast

Any more ideas as I'm off spend afternoon on it and tbh I'm out of ideas now

scubbay

iTrader: (61)

make sure your engine is earthed properly. Run an extra earth from battery to block to eliminate.

Black_beast

I have 2 earths of loom

1 with bracket bolted to top starter bolt
2 on top the block just behide the knock sensor

Also added ones running from both side of the intake manifold to battery
And one on the bracket/cover in front of power steering pump

RICHARD J

iTrader: (4)

Are you sure the engine ran when you bought it? If not I'd do a compression test before wasting any more time on it.

Black_beast

I had to take a members word for it on here as he was selling the car and then decided to break to get his money back,,otherwise il name and Shame if the engines dud and il ask for money back!

rob84

iTrader: (5)

The Bakelite cam sprocket will have metal trigger pins in the outter ring for the cam sensor to pickup on, if I was you I'd change the sprocket so you know it matches up to the car it came off originally.

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

The cam pulleys are the same in respect to the timing pick-ups on the back of the L/H Inlet pulley and the crank trigger sprocket, just made from a different material - refer back to the photos i posted up in your other thread for how many pick-ups you should have.
If you have any doubt, remove the cam sensor and you can feel/count the timing pick-ups through the cam sensor hole as you rotate the engine by Hand.
Make sure there are no missing pick-ups from the crank sprocket.

Mick

jayallen

iTrader: (31)

Did you reuse the V4 engine loom? I'm pretty sure the coil pack wiring differs between V3 and V4

scubbay

iTrader: (61)

3 and 4 are both wasted spark so the coil should be the same.

jayallen

iTrader: (31)

I'm pretty sure the V3 has 3 wires and the V4 has 4 wires...Just something I remember from when I done a single coil conversion on friends V2 a few years ago.

Black_beast

Yes reused the sensors and loom from my v4,, was basically v3 Bare engine with all my v4 inlet Etc bolted to it,,

Would oil pressure switch stop it?

Black_beast

Is there any way to double check crank and cam sensor?

I haven't got the cam plugged mixed up with injectors as the colour wires are the same both sides for injectors,,..

merlin24

iTrader: (1)

You can check the resistance of the crank and cam sensors, both should be between 950~1250 ohms.

Mick

Black_beast

Quick update,, didn't have meter to check sensors,, but I swapped fuel pipes over,, put return on top rail and fuel in on the middle ( I thought this was the wrong way) but anyway after doing this the car actually started to cough and fart for once,,

I'm guessing it was trying to spark on fuel left in chamber?

Then it slowly died off and continued cranking,,


So I'm guessing that with pipes fitted the right way I'm basically flooding the engine?

Am u right and if so why??