k-jones-087

hi all, so heres the story, ive been trying for a while now to sort my no boost problem in my 01 wrx bug, checked everything ovious as ive posted about this before. spoke with last owner yesterday and it turns out he was in the process of geting it mapped when the engine gave out,(thats when i bought it cheap) the mapper mentioned to him the sensor for the tgv valves by the turbo was doing nothing but he might get around that,then the engine knocked with a big end gone. i think the mapper deleted the tgv from the ecu hence im not getting a code,the car feels very stutery and only goes to7psi on gauge,dosent even hold boost,car feels crap. so my question is whats my best and easiest plan here to check the tgv's??

bengo

iTrader: (17)

The best way to check is to get a laptop with a vagcom cable, then use a program like romraider to log the position of the tgvs

k-jones-087

thanks for that,il look into that

Midlife......

iTrader: (2)

If the mapper "mapped out" the TGV problems then looking at the ECU won't help, the ECU won't store any codes...... you need more info from the mapper

Shaun

k-jones-087

ya,il have to try and talk to the mapper, would i see anything if i took off the actuater motor off??

bengo

iTrader: (17)

All the mapper would have done is disabled the TGV trouble codes, so you're right you won't get any CELs/error codes, but you will still be able to see the position of the TGVs using romraider (assuming the sensors are still plugged in).

Ben

k-jones-087

thanks for that ben, ya spoke with the mapper,it was a while back when he was working on the car so he was trying to remember it. he reckons he got rid of the tgv codes from the ecu and said the left rear sensor seemed to be doing nothing. he said i should take off the actuater motor at the front and see if i can turn the valves open,then refit motor and leave disconnected. he said it better they stay open then shut. forgot to ask him what way the shaft should look when fully open

adz556

iTrader: (5)

If the tgv are already deleted, get some deletes from the sti and that should solve all your problems

bengo

iTrader: (17)

As said, I would get proper TGV deletes if you can.

If it's just the sensor thats causing you problems then you could replace it to get it working again, you'll need to remove the turbo to gain access. It's the same part as the throttle possition sensor

k-jones-087

thanks guys, ya was thinking of geting the deletes alright,that would surely sort my problem. spoke with guy i know today who works in subaru so hes gonna plug it in and see what the tgv's are doing, im hoping this will sort my boost issues because im out of ideas,ive checked everything else. the car just acts like its choked up or has air leak,its a hard one to find as ive been at this a while

tattoosi

iTrader: (5)

what do these tgv 's actually do? asking because mine keeps throwing the code up for these

Midlife......

iTrader: (2)

TGV's mix fuel and air better on start up to reduce emissions when the car is cold............ That's my take on it.

Shaun

tattoosi

iTrader: (5)

so im running full decat, emissions are no prob so i can just delete them?

Midlife......

iTrader: (2)

They are completely unnecessary, rather like the cold start air pump on the Hawk......hopeless.

You will need to have the codes mapped out like the OP's.

If you are feeling adventurous you can use the wiring to the TGV's to run an STi AVCS set of heads

Shaun

bengo

iTrader: (17)

If your TGVs are jammed shut then it behave exactly as you describe, it will be choked up and won't freely rev (hence low boost). Your Subaru mechanic will be able to identify it straight away.

Good luck

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Oh, I like the sound of that - any more info (tried googling)?

Midlife......

iTrader: (2)

Has been done a couple of times by people on here......... seemed a bit complicated to me so I kept mine

Shaun

bengo

iTrader: (17)

I've just done it with my EJ207 swap, it's not too bad.

As the TGVs use shielded wires you can re-use them to control half of the AVCS system, you'll also need to add 4 additional shielded cables and a STi ECU.

Henrik

iTrader: (5)

Ah, so STI ecu still required? I was hoping it was some open source hack ala dual maps

gazney101

iTrader: (5)

7 psi is wastegate spring pressure which is a symptom of boost solenoid stuck closed, tgv valves still allow the car to boost, they are designed to slow down the air flow and allow the engine to run rich when cold. I suspect boost solenoid

bengo

iTrader: (17)

unfortunately you do still need the ecu as the non avcs ecu do not have the correct drivers for the avcs motors. you can pick up an sti ecu pretty cheaply though and if you get a jdm one you wont have to worry about the programming your key for the imoboliser.

k-jones-087

ya,i was thinking the boost solenoid too, took it off,powered it up and it clicks away no probs, cleaned it out and it wasnt blocked and no dirt even came out. now,what i havent checked is the block connecter going onto it, maybe its not geting signal. my friend in subaru cant plug into my car to check the tgv's until next week,so in the meantime i might have a look at the wiring to the solenoid.

MichaelW

iTrader: (7)

Hi. Have you got an update in this? I have just bight a 2001 WRX and it won't boost properly,much like yours. I'm getting a fault code of left bank TGV sensor circuit (low). Could this cause the car to feel like its misfiring and not boosting properly?
Thanks,
Michael

k-jones-087

hi michael, ya i posted an update, i got subaru mechanic to plug into it, he was able to check the voltages of the tgv valves. on one side my voltage was at 0.00v which i think means the valves are stuck open,which shouldnt be causing my prob. yesterday i made up boost leak tester and piped in 15psi through the intake,sprayed everywhere with soapy water but found no leak. im suspecting now its my ecu, it had a manual boost controller on it when i bought it which is now removed,so i reckon someone could have messed with the ecu, im gonna get mapper to take a look at it very soon. as for your car can you get someone to plug in to check the voltages of the valves,if there stuck closed it may cause a prob alright. and check all the ovious things,all pipe work,turbo actuater,boost solenoid,you can take that off give it an earth and 12v and see if its clicking,try cleaning it, also check that the restrictor pill is in the correct pipe and is the right size

MichaelW

iTrader: (7)

Hi. Thanks for the reply. I am going to have a look at it next weekend and see if there is anything obvious. At least the sensor that is showing the fault is at the front and easy to get to. I am going to remove it and check to see if the bar has seized and hen I will see if the sensor is working.
Does anybody have a spare sensor that I can purchase to try?
Thanks,
Michael

bored7

Hi all,
I am interested in finding out more about these TGV's too as I have recently bought a 02 WRX turbo (standard except air filter) and have never owned one before, so a complete newbie. I have carried out some work already to fix a number of minor issues (leaking bootlid, brakes overhaul, spark plugs etc) but there is one issue that is bugging me.....the engine management light is on. It flickered at first but is now pretty much constantly on. I have had the code read and have been told it is the swirl flaps, which I take to mean one of the TGVs. Apologies if this has been asked a million times before but is there an easy way I can just get rid of them (by replacing the inlet manifold??) then have the ECU mapped by someone that is capable (preferably on the forum) to remove the ECU light from my dash? The car is hesitant and driving me nuts!
Thanks

MichaelW

iTrader: (7)

Hi. Just do a search for 'Tgv deletes' and you will get loads of info. Basically you can swap the inlet manifold for an STi one, which don't have the flaps but you will need to have the ECU reprogrammed. Alternatively you can unplug the motors with the flaps open. There is plenty of info about for this with varying degrees of success. The other option is to remove your manifold, remove the flaps and refit with the motors and sensors still connected. The system basically then still thinks it has TGV's but it doesn't, so no ECU reprogramming required.
I would suggest a bit of research on here before making a decision.
Hope this helps,
Mick

bored7

Thanks for your help Mike, much appreciated. Dealing with these TGVs seems like a bit of a minefield. Whatever is the easiest route with a bit of future proofing works for me. I will do some research but at this stage it would seem the STi manifold might be the best route with less mucking about (provided I can find one and someone nearby that can remap the ECU).
Thanks,
Darren

scoobyJim2

Unplugg the tgv and see if it throws a trouble code,then you'll know if mapper deleted them. If engine has been replaced and any sensors on the inlet manifold removed replaced (not that they need to be removed to change engine) but there is a chance one has not been plugged back in and if any were removed,some are spring loaded and have to be fitted in the open position,so put on at 90° then turned to position and bolted up,if they are fitted closed they will cause problems