STi tmic Vs Cheap fmic
Hi Guys,
This is abit ahead of my plans, but once I've sorted my breaks I'll be doing a little work on the engine. I dont have big plans, Id like 350bhp, or there abouts. The car is a '51 uk bugeye, has a K&N and full decat. I was thinking of fitting a STI tmic with undertray, 3 point solenoid, uprated fuel pump, sti injectors and larger turbo (not decided on which one yet) followed by a re-map.
Now after looking around, a v7/v8 tmic with the undertray seems to be around £180/£200 plus postage. I have seen on a well known auction site some fmics for not a great deal more than that. Now for what I'm after the top end front mounts are too pricey and I think unneccesary, or could be totaly wrong.
So,the questions are, 1- will what I have planned give what I want? and
2- would I be better sticking to an STI tmic or is a cheap fmic a better bet or are they a waste?
Hope that all makes sense?
Thanks, Lee
This is abit ahead of my plans, but once I've sorted my breaks I'll be doing a little work on the engine. I dont have big plans, Id like 350bhp, or there abouts. The car is a '51 uk bugeye, has a K&N and full decat. I was thinking of fitting a STI tmic with undertray, 3 point solenoid, uprated fuel pump, sti injectors and larger turbo (not decided on which one yet) followed by a re-map.
Now after looking around, a v7/v8 tmic with the undertray seems to be around £180/£200 plus postage. I have seen on a well known auction site some fmics for not a great deal more than that. Now for what I'm after the top end front mounts are too pricey and I think unneccesary, or could be totaly wrong.
So,the questions are, 1- will what I have planned give what I want? and
2- would I be better sticking to an STI tmic or is a cheap fmic a better bet or are they a waste?
Hope that all makes sense?
Thanks, Lee
Newage sti top mounts are good for around 400bhp, plus they bolts straight on, with a front mount you need to cut the front bumper to make the core fit! If you do decide to go down the fmic root, look at japspeed there kits are quite good apparently, only know all this as I'm looking from changing from sti top mount to fmic hope this helps wigs
thanks guys
Wigs, the japspeed one looks very good, but I'm starting to go back towards the top mount now. The fitting would add another good chunk to the cost and by the sounds of things, there wouldnt be any noticable benifit.
Cheers
Cheers
Use a gen STi top mount, stick to a 2.5" exhaust system; prodrive sport cat, STi up pipe, injectors, walbro 255, TD05, in fact have a look on Andy Forrest's web site - he lists what you need for what power.
this is what i run and am over 350/350; he mapped mine and said it was not necessary to fit a 3 port at these boost/power levels.
hope that helps.
this is what i run and am over 350/350; he mapped mine and said it was not necessary to fit a 3 port at these boost/power levels.
hope that helps.
Use a gen STi top mount, stick to a 2.5" exhaust system; prodrive sport cat, STi up pipe, injectors, walbro 255, TD05, in fact have a look on Andy Forrest's web site - he lists what you need for what power.
this is what i run and am over 350/350; he mapped mine and said it was not necessary to fit a 3 port at these boost/power levels.
hope that helps.
this is what i run and am over 350/350; he mapped mine and said it was not necessary to fit a 3 port at these boost/power levels.
hope that helps.
Top mount is good for 350 hp no problems but if you want to run at high speed for longer amounts of time you really need a FMIC.
I ran a top mount at 360 hp but changed to a Perrin FMIC after seeing engine temps rising on high speed runs.
I ran a top mount at 360 hp but changed to a Perrin FMIC after seeing engine temps rising on high speed runs.
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dont do much over 85-90, not worth the licence so I cant say about the high speed runs. Outwith that, temp doesnt move; I am assuming you mean engine - not intake temps.
If you are getting rising engine temps at speed you maybe need to look at better cooling or have your map checked - or just slow down
Not sure about the newer scoops but on the classic, the actual bonnet scoop is more or less useless over 100mph, the air is forced over it. That's where the higher temps will more than likely come from.
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As said for sustained high speed driving a FMIC is necessary as the aero dynamics affect the airflow to a top mount. For B road fun a top mount is fine as you won't be hitting 3 figures for a sustained period. Also when fitting a FMIC you are likely to have to fit an induction kit. Unless you fit a CAK you may get trouble due to turbulent airflow through the MAF sensor.
As said for sustained high speed driving a FMIC is necessary as the aero dynamics affect the airflow to a top mount. For B road fun a top mount is fine as you won't be hitting 3 figures for a sustained period. Also when fitting a FMIC you are likely to have to fit an induction kit. Unless you fit a CAK you may get trouble due to turbulent airflow through the MAF sensor.
As said for sustained high speed driving a FMIC is necessary as the aero dynamics affect the airflow to a top mount. For B road fun a top mount is fine as you won't be hitting 3 figures for a sustained period. Also when fitting a FMIC you are likely to have to fit an induction kit. Unless you fit a CAK you may get trouble due to turbulent airflow through the MAF sensor.
But I wasnt aware of the limitations of the scoop at speed either so thanks for that.
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