millers oil
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millers oil
Chaps, just about have her serviced and found this on cheese bay... What do you think. Just a normal every day driver with some occasional fun. Thank... Millers fully synth 5w40 (5litres) for £ 25 delivered??? For 2003 wrx ppp no other mods. O and they have some original subaru oil filters, thought they would be good too.
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...d=110765099104
This one mate, not an expert im affraid, wad this or maybe shell helix 5w 40w.
Thanks for your help..
This one mate, not an expert im affraid, wad this or maybe shell helix 5w 40w.
Thanks for your help..
#4
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That is Millers basic oil, not what I'd recommend for your car. You'd be better off with something like this
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60166-fu...e-vw-more.aspx
Cheers
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60166-fu...e-vw-more.aspx
Cheers
Tim
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Thanks for the reply, really confused, all the sites seem to qoute 5w 40? is this the right oil for mine, it has PPP but thats it?
That is Millers basic oil, not what I'd recommend for your car. You'd be better off with something like this
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60166-fu...e-vw-more.aspx
Cheers
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60166-fu...e-vw-more.aspx
Cheers
Tim
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Im not saying its wrong, far from it, just know of people putting it in and draining it straight out as was making the engine noisy, i asked yourself for the verdict on the 10/60 not so long back
#13
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The 10w 60 is a bit thick for road use in my opinion. Unless you're on WOT for long periods and seeing high oil temps it is overkill. For an engine in fine fettle I would go for a 10w 50 if you are running more power than standard and 10w 40 for a standard engine. That said the 10w 60 will quieten an engine that is suffering from piston slap or is generally noisy due to it's viscosity.
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Yea have been told about the 10/60 and to be honest have had quite a large bag of replies, my problem was the car had always been ran on 10/60 so didn really want to change it as didn want to do more harm than good in a weird round about way if tha makes sense lol, but the motor does sound really nice on it so have just left it well alone, also a subaru specialist said he runs 10/60 in his cars so didn think too much in to it
#15
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Yea have been told about the 10/60 and to be honest have had quite a large bag of replies, my problem was the car had always been ran on 10/60 so didn really want to change it as didn want to do more harm than good in a weird round about way if tha makes sense lol, but the motor does sound really nice on it so have just left it well alone, also a subaru specialist said he runs 10/60 in his cars so didn think too much in to it
My only caveat is that if you're doing lots of short journeys in winter the 60 is sapping power and creating lots of drag in the engine. Furthermore it will have more additives in to keep the oil stable over the viscosity range.
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I do alot of short journeys as i live less than 10 mins away from work, even quicker if all the traffic lights are green lol, in my other cars (non subaru) i use to change my oil come towards the winter months for a thinner oil allowing it to heat up to temp quicker, but as you mentioned above my car just gets to temp as i arrive, sometimes its not even up to temp, so do i do the same with the scoob, maybe down to a 10/50?
Dont get me wrong the car is not abused, "flat out" every where, but i do enjoy my drive over my local mountain roads, which is where in my mind the 10/60 is doing its job, as going back last year my mates engine decided to spit out its dummy and throw the bearings, he had only just serviced the car and ran either a 10/30 or a 0/30 in there, coming down from a 10/50 that had previously been ran, may have been a coinsidence but we have done them roads many times and never had a prob, but when he changed oil grade his gave up the ghost may be totally unrelated but this is the reasoning behind my thought trail, hence why im a little reluctant to change to a thinner oil
Dont get me wrong the car is not abused, "flat out" every where, but i do enjoy my drive over my local mountain roads, which is where in my mind the 10/60 is doing its job, as going back last year my mates engine decided to spit out its dummy and throw the bearings, he had only just serviced the car and ran either a 10/30 or a 0/30 in there, coming down from a 10/50 that had previously been ran, may have been a coinsidence but we have done them roads many times and never had a prob, but when he changed oil grade his gave up the ghost may be totally unrelated but this is the reasoning behind my thought trail, hence why im a little reluctant to change to a thinner oil
#17
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Einsten has got a good point about going for a 10w-50 rather than 10w-60, it makes more sense.
If it ain't broke don't fix it is a fair enough way of looking at things, but with oil the issues build up over time. Yes, you can put in the wrong oil and kill the engine quickly, perhaps that was what happened with your mates car (what was it?), but using an oil that is not too far wrong causes wear over a period of time.
Cheers
Tim
If it ain't broke don't fix it is a fair enough way of looking at things, but with oil the issues build up over time. Yes, you can put in the wrong oil and kill the engine quickly, perhaps that was what happened with your mates car (what was it?), but using an oil that is not too far wrong causes wear over a period of time.
Cheers
Tim
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