goffemannen

I was out driving yesterday. It was pretty cold out so the car run great. But I started hitting the map limit. Okay, I thought, It's pretty cold out, and yes I've moved the air filter down behind the front bumper so it gets colder air then before when it was in the engine compartment behind the headlight. I also had the fog light cover removed to for more airflow to the filter. I adjusted the boost in the map little. Adjusted for the intake tempeture being lower then usual. Adjusted general boost table to, and no difference. hmm.. put all values ​​of 0 in the boost table, it loads about 1.2-1.3bar(17.4-18.8psi) anyway, just that it takes more time to get there, it's not as responsive and fast as it used to be. WTF!

I plugged out the boost selenoid (the blue thing that has vacuum hoses to the intake and compressor housing to the turbo). Same phenomenon as before, boost about 1.2bar(17,4psi), but it's not as responsive and fast.

Does anybody have any idea of what it could be? The wastegatearm moves easily. Maybe it has to be adjusted? That it dosen't open enough as it is now?


It also feels like it boost a little bit more if you drive it hard for a while. If I race through three roundabouts it boosting more at the end.


This is how I've set it up before this happened.
I got the map limit at 1.5bar(21.7psi) and have adjusted the boost so it will be at about 1.35-1.4bar(19.6-20.3psi) at maximum.


I got a STI Type R V5.

Following engine spec:
Standard internals and turbo.
Link G4 PnP ECU
Full decat 3" exhaust
Hybrid GT2 FMIC
AEM Dryflow air filter
Exedy Steg 1 clutch
walbro 255l/h fuelpump
HKS/NGK Iridium/platina Super Fire Racing HR8 sparkplugs
HKS SSQV2 BOV

goffemannen

Could it be boost creep? I get the higher boost on high rpm. Between 5000-6000rpm depending on what gear I use.

And if it is that I have to port the wastegate right?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

shouldnt be making 1.2bar on 0 duty..

boost leak in small hose on actuator or associated pipework to compressor cover or boost solenoid?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

or restrictor pill in compressor cover pipe is blocked

goffemannen

I know it shouldn't do that. It should do about
0.5 right?

I disconnected the selonoid at I was the same as 0 duty, so it can't be the selonoid right?

I checked the small hoses and they all looked fine. I changed all the small hoses 1year ago to new silicone hoses. But I will check them again.

Can't I plug some hose to just let it run on actuator pressure..

I will check the restrictor pill. But which hose is it in?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

replace pipe from compressor to acutator with one single piece of hose and you should have same as 0 duty and should be nearer 0.7bar..

however is it peaking initially and holdfing 1.2bar or creaping to that at higher rpm?

goffemannen

When on 0 duty the boost was getting higher with the rpm. Hit about 0.5-0.7 fast the increasing slowly together with the rpm.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

sounds like a bit of boost creap then.

if you set the duty to 20% do you see 0.9ish bar climbing to 1.2bar or does it climb higher with some duty.. ?

perhaps you need duty at low rpm and tail it off at high rpm to keep lower than boost cut.

Or was this setup working fine and all of a sudden boosting higher with no change to the car or map?

goffemannen

I tried with 15% duty and it hit the map limit at 1.5. as normal I've been running about 27-28% duty.

I can try another duty table. Making it about 27 at 3000 and tail it down to next to nothing on high rpm like 4500-5000 and higher. See if that helps.

This map has been working pretty good. But when I changed to another exhaust that had better flow I had to adjust the boost. Then after relocating the air filter
I had to do the same beacause of lower intake tempature. Just small adjustments. But that's normal right?

So yeah it's kinda sudden. But maybe it's been getting a little high before but the it hasn't been so cold and the filter was located in the engine bay making the intake tempature higher.

goffemannen

I just got home after a short test drive. I removed the hose with the restrictor and t-piece between the actuator and compressor. I connected a single hose between the actuator. I did some runs but only logged one.

I went from 3-5th gear.

On 3rd the boost rises to about 1.29 at 6100rpm then falling off to about 1.21bar at 7100rpm where I changed gear.

On 4th I got about 1.37bar at 6100rpm then falling of to about 1.24bar at 6800rpm where I changed gear.

On 5th I started at about 5300rpm after the gear change from 4th. There I got about 0.7bar then at 5800rpm I got 1.48bar and its falling off to about 1.44 at 6200rpm. I couldn't go faster this run. But I did a test run before this where I changed to 6th gear and had about 5000-5500rpm on 6th and then I hit the map limit at 1.5 bar.

So clearly there is something wrong with the turbo since it boost way to high. So it must be boost creep. So removing of the turbo to port the wastgate would be the thing to do right?

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

Classic boost creap.
You need to remove the turbo and port the wastegate so it flows more exhaust gas

goffemannen

okey...will remove it tomorrow. Any tips on how to do when porting it? How much to take away?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

What was the car doing previously?
Has it always displayed this boost anomoly or have you done something to alter the setup?
Assuming it is boost creep why is it only rearing its head now?

Porting the wastegate is relatively easy. You need an air powered die grinder for best results but you could use a dremel and electric drill. It just takes longer. Open the diameter of the port. If you have a Vernier caliper measure the diameter before you start. Also guage the diameter of the penny valve where it actually contacts the wastegate port. You do not need to remove very much material to greatly increase the flow ability of the port. I cannot tell you the amount to remove but if you add 25% of the difference between the penny valve contact diameter and actual port diameter that would be a starting point. Then use engineering glue or similar to ensure you still have a good flat contact surface and if desirable you can go another 25% but the turbo is ruined if you take out too much. Put a very slight radius on the sharp edges so as to give smooth air flow.

Jolly Green Monster

iTrader: (4)

what Harvey said

goffemannen

Well I have been hitting the map limit before when it has been cold. But that hasn't been any problem since I can count the amount of times on my fingers on one hand. Now it's a problem all the time.

And when adjusting the boost sometimes it felt that it wasn't happening so much. So the boost problem might have been there before.


I've done some changes last few weeks to get more performance. New better flowing exhaust(the boost rise 0.1-0.15 after just changing it), heat wrapped the downpipe, new location for the air filter to get colder air.



I found this picture. Is that a good amount to remove? Or should I take less all around the hole not just on one side as the picture show? And should I just remove material at the edge or the whole way in?

"blue cresent line to the left"




Maybe I should do this to when I got the turbo off.







Do the glue really stay in place on the turbo? Or what type of glue should be used? Or is it just to see if its flat? Not to make it flat?

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Please read what I already said. I have told you how to determine how much to remove.
Picture 3 is what you are aiming for in terms of porting the exhaust inlet.
Regards porting the wastegate, you are doing this to open out the diameter, slightly, all the way through the WG port so that more exhaust gas can be released. The hole at the penny valve end will be exactly a circle to match a diameter inside the overall diameter of the penny valve so the port is adequately sealed by the penny valve.
Sorry a typo on my part. Not engineering glue but engineering blue. This is usually a water based blue "paint" so you can observe that you have a flat sealing surface.

goffemannen

Sorry..I'm not the best on English, I'm from Sweden.


But I understand now on how to do =).

harvey

iTrader: (48)

If you need more help, please e-mail per profile.
No need to apologise for your English. I realise you are from Sweden and I admire that your education system equips you with good language options. Despite time in Varnamo and Sweden in general because almost everyone spoke English, I was lazy and had no need to learn your language.

goffemannen

How do you think this looks?? Should I round off the edges into the wastegate more? Or is it ok?








Värnamo is just 50km away from where I live. What brought you to Sweden?

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

The silky, flaxon-headed hot blondes, I'm guessing.

goffemannen

I smoothed out the edges a little bit more today.







Mounted the turbo back and went for a test drive. 0.6 bar on 10% duty. Now that's a big difference . Now I got nice controll on the boost. Boost peak at 1.4 now. Woho!!!

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

So all sorted now?

goffemannen

Yes it is. Now I'm happy again .

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Well done on your handy work with a Dremmel lol

Oh, and harvey FTW!

goffemannen

Yeah. Thanks everyone for the help. Very much appreciated.

harvey

iTrader: (48)

Only seen this now Gofferman. Your first photos were OK so your extra results may not have had any big benefit but it is always good to play. It is not easy to tell from photos but I always smooth off the port surfaces so they are smooth but not polished.
Your results speak for themself. Well done.

Joz : Not quite Mate. A silky, flaxon-headed hot blonde. Last time we met up some years ago she was happily married, couple of kids and in Jonkoping.

joz8968

iTrader: (13)

Mr J

Good to see it all sorted



/Jan