Hi guys couple of questions.

Got myself some gauges to fit and was wondering if I didn't mind not using the stock oil pressure light, could I use the existing sensor? The wiring for the gauge needs one wire as does the stock one. plus just plugging the stock wiring, will this cause the light to stay on?

Plus for the temperature sensor is it the plug on the left or the right at the back of the engine as you look under the bonnet?

Cheers

 

Have a read through this.

https://www.scoobynet.com/interior-1...and-boost.html

 

Yep already gone through that thread but doesn't answer the question of if I can use the stock sensor for the pressure?

 

I'm not personally aware of any gauges that can use the stock sensor, all the aftermarket gauges I've come across use their own sensor.

 

you need an adapter to relocate the sender that comes with the gauges.i had this made up for £10.

 

That is the same type sensor that cam with the kit but only has one connection on the top for one wire. Does the sensor not need earthing when on one of those adaptors? did you just extend the wiring for the stock sensor?

Thanks

 

To answer the OP: no, sorry, you can't use the stock oil pressure switch, since it's NOT a sensor, (sender), it's just an on/off switch, that reacts to the pressure of the oil and switches a light on on the dash if it falls below a set limit, one bar, iirc.

The oil pressure SWITCH is to be found under the alternator on the front of the engine. Yes, it has one wire going to it. It looks like a brown, black or grey mushroom with the wire coming off it's top.
You unscrew it and either discard it, as most people do, and fit the new sender in it's place, or, if the sender is too large to fit there, or for some reason you want the OE oil, pressure switch too, fit an extension T-Piece.

Meanwhile, the oil TEMPERATURE sender goes in the tappings on top of cylinder No3, (rear, driver's side), for which you will need an adpator, about £5, and a LONG, STRONG allen key to remove the bung that is in those tappings now.

HTH

 

if the sender has a single wire then that is the signal wire for the gauge.just make sure that the sender is earthed at some point through the adapter.

 

Are those adaptors metal all the way through that should earth it to the block? Or would I need to fit a separate wire to earth and where to?

Sorry for all the questions but the instructions show a different sensor

Thanks alcazar also

 

mine is earthed to the alternator bracket.was off anyway to fit adapter so was easy to do.

 

The adaptor for the o/t gauge is turned metal, either brass, or, like mine, alloy. That does the earthing for that sender.

The other type like this:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-rem...item519e055c97 **

MAY need you to run a wire from the sender body to earth.

** That was the first I saw on e-bay, there may be others better or cheaper

 

that's cool mate but how did earth it? Did you refit the stock one aswell or not? If not then did it leave the light on on thru dash? Plus if you didn't then would the new sensor not fit under the alternator and that was the reason for using the extension?

Thanks for that alcazar, the o/t one I'm fine with its just the o/p one that is confusing me as to how its earthed? I'm not too fussed about having the stock one fitted cos that will make fitting the sensor easier but not sure if the alternator would fit ok?

 

This is the sensor, 2 pics. How would I connect an earth to it? How about using a jubilee clip around the actual sender and use the to hold the earth on?

Any ideas?

Thanks

 

Any help?

 

Yes, you could do that, but a tidier fit would be a large ring terminal with the earth wirre soldered to it, and use the threads of the sender to hold it in place, like a bolt.

BUT: depending on what iece you buy, earthing may well be included in it, so no extra wire needed, just like screwing it into the block.

When I put a more accurate water temperature gauge on, my stock gauge sender went into a fitting like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/36mm-WATER...item5d32d4ae9c

The earth is meant to go onto the little screw shown. Mine didn't have one, and, since it's in the centre of the top hose, it NEEDS an earth to bodywork, so I used the large ring terminal idea.

 

Its funny you should say that as I had thought about putting a hoop connection on so it screws on to it but the problem then arose when I see the picture above with it fitted. The base of the sender unit doesn't actually touch the adaptor to clamp it down. I think this could only be made to work if it was packed out maybe with washers? Unless there is another solution?

 

Possibly, but then you'd risk it not being screwed in far enough. The problem being that the senders are a slightly coned thread (not parallel thread), so that they screw in tight and seal easily.

TBH, I've not heard of others having the problem using those t-pieces. Why not get one and see?

 

Ones on order and I'm still waiting on the gauge pod to come so there's no rush yet. I'm just trying to figure it out in my head first so that if a problem arises, I'll know how to solve it. If I need them I've got some copper washers from my work and see if they would be used to pack out slightly depending on how far it screws in.

Others must have done this successfully but then they may have had the senders that have 2 terminal on the sender. Who knows?

 

Well I've been advising on gauge fitting and fault finding on here for years, and you are the first to ask that question.
I'd not worry until it comes, then you can look to see if it earths for you.

 

Just to add to this, I've fitted the gauges and the t piece didn't earth the sender so had to strap the earth cable to it. If I earthed it to an earthing point on the engine then as soon as anything uses a heavy electrical load ie putting headlights on, operating windows etc, the needles of the oil temp/pressure move and stays there whilst the load is on. Now the wire from the sender to gauge had a black and white wire, the white being the signal and black earth but was told the black wouldn't be needed they'd be earthed on the engine. Connecting the black wire ad the earth on the sender, then thru needle on the oil pressure is not effected.

The problem seems to be a problem with the earthing? Right? The thing is is I leave the earth from the gauge connected and then put an earth to the engine then the needle is still effected.

There seems ti be no other way if connecting an earth to the oil temp sender other than it earthing through the block?

Anyone got any suggestions?

Thanks

 

I just tried connecting the oil pressure sender earth straight to the battery and once again the needle fluctuated under electrical load. What would be the best option for the oil temp sender?

 

I've had various problems with this and prosport gauges where they recomend earthing behind the gauge. Long story short the prosport ones are gone and the Autogauge replacements have two wire pre plugged cables no more earth problems and gauges that work.

 

Don't the prosport oil temp sender not have two wire connections on them, from photos I've seen they do?

I'm thinking of fitting a diy grounding kit to see if that'll help?