Martin 2010

iTrader: (9)

Right my car when i got it occasionly showed the engine check light so i test the codes got a lot come back to i re set ecu, the took her out for a longish drive until ECL came on again, i then re check the codes, the 2 i got where ( 22 + 23 ) maf and knock sensor, i changed the maf today thinking that maybe this would cure both the problems as the faulty maf might of cause a knock or to. how ever after fittting maf and re setting ecu i went out for another drive.. seemed spot on for 20 mins plus.. then boom light came on, stopped re codes and showed the knock sensor ( 22 ) only, drove it home re check codes and got 22 + 23 again!!! sure this cant be right ? it current has no dump valve so i thought the air going back thro MAF might be causing the maf code to come up... also the light ECL only comes on when its hot in the engine bay. it occasionally has a funny idle when i come up to traffic lights etc also. ? any ideas ppl???

TonyBurns

iTrader: (3)

What mods does the car have?

Martin 2010

iTrader: (9)

To be honest im not sure whats on it exactly, i think its got std turbo, it has apexi induction kit, de cat and cat back exhaust, fuel pump (walbro) and possible remap but from a different turbo ( vf 35 ) i believe..

Martin 2010

iTrader: (9)

bttt

phil1981

iTrader: (5)

if it has been remapped on a different turbo then turbo changed and no remap, surely that wont help the issue

jakea

iTrader: (2)

faulty lambda will cause this also, for the fuel trims will be wonky and the ecu might attribute it to the maf

however don't discount the knock sensor as being ok, they are nearing 20 years

MIAMI

iTrader: (1)

Somewhat annoyingly, there do seem to be a few cases where a faulty MAF sensor can cause the code 22 error. I don't know why this should happen but trustworthy, reliable people have reported it. Therefore, the fact that you are getting 22 adds to the suspicion. Although the first thing you should do in these circumstances is to check or replace the knock sensor.
You *can* check the knock sensor with a multimeter. Set it to resistance mode and see what you get across its two pins. The correct number should be 555Kohm +/- 5% or so. There should also be a direct connection (i.e. zero ohms) between the right hand pin as you look into the plug with the sensor upright, and the metal part of the sensor body. Be aware though that even if this sensor passes a static resistance test on a multimeter, it's still possible (albeit remotely) for it to be damaged. If you see any cracking in the plastic body, in particular, precautionary replacement is advisable.