couple of questions really
#1
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couple of questions really
couple of questions really, new to the scoobys and done a bit of research on the one i have, its a 95 wagon wrx, what ive read off here tells me its a 220, which i had this idea of all imports being 260 but never mind.
its fully standard and as i got it fairly cheap was wonering which route to take for reasonable power mods, i was only after 270-80 ish if thats easy enough to achieve, if not 250ish would do. im going to start with an exhaust and then maybe a panel filter and remove the resonater pipe thingy, now what i was wondering was could i swap the ecu for one which is compatable but ups the boost a little(stop me if im wrong please, im a noob) to achieve my goal. ive read about the uprated fuel pump walbro 255, is this needed for what i want? is there an easier alternative?
thanks for any help
its fully standard and as i got it fairly cheap was wonering which route to take for reasonable power mods, i was only after 270-80 ish if thats easy enough to achieve, if not 250ish would do. im going to start with an exhaust and then maybe a panel filter and remove the resonater pipe thingy, now what i was wondering was could i swap the ecu for one which is compatable but ups the boost a little(stop me if im wrong please, im a noob) to achieve my goal. ive read about the uprated fuel pump walbro 255, is this needed for what i want? is there an easier alternative?
thanks for any help
#2
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Fuel pump is a wise upgrade, especially if yours is the original fitted.
Decat exhaust and a decent panel filter would be a good move for the power level you want.
Ecu swap is fine, depends what turbo is fitted to your wagon though.
Edit to add, all of the above you can do yourself, the hardest part will be the downpipe swap.
Where about's in Yorkshire are you? Can point you in direction of people that can help if you need it.
Decat exhaust and a decent panel filter would be a good move for the power level you want.
Ecu swap is fine, depends what turbo is fitted to your wagon though.
Edit to add, all of the above you can do yourself, the hardest part will be the downpipe swap.
Where about's in Yorkshire are you? Can point you in direction of people that can help if you need it.
Last edited by mickywrx; 06 March 2012 at 07:33 PM.
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thanks for the speedy reply, to get a good result from the exhaust is it best being right through or will cat back help? im in bradford, west yorkshire. if my turbo is the td04 which i think it is on that car, what boost can i run?
cheers
cheers
#4
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Yeah, you'll want a full exhaust system ideally.
Got no idea on the amount of boost you "can" run on a TD04, but, you won't be able to go much above 1bar due to the fuel cut setting in the ecu.
Got no idea on the amount of boost you "can" run on a TD04, but, you won't be able to go much above 1bar due to the fuel cut setting in the ecu.
#6
hi mate, I would look at fitting a silicone Y-pipe that feeds your intercooler from the turbo. i did this on mine and just looking at it you can see how much less restrictive it is! could really feel the results on my wagon although i am runnin a bit bigger turbo from an sti.
You can't really go that far without a mappable ecu though as you won't get the most from your upgrades and more importantly up risk of lean situations and engine det
oh and before someone else says it, stick on a stiffer rear anti roll bar and droplinks. You will be very, very pleasantly supprised at how the handling is transformed
regards,
Ash
p.s. watch those bloody 2 pot brakes!
You can't really go that far without a mappable ecu though as you won't get the most from your upgrades and more importantly up risk of lean situations and engine det
oh and before someone else says it, stick on a stiffer rear anti roll bar and droplinks. You will be very, very pleasantly supprised at how the handling is transformed
regards,
Ash
p.s. watch those bloody 2 pot brakes!
#7
Hi guys I'm in the same boat as fast got a wrx wagon import 1995, any chance of some details on the turbo and y pipe your using ash as both are on my list of jobs for £900 quid what did I expect any pics on engine bays would be great dunno what's std and what's not lol sorry if I'm thread hi jacking
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You and the OP are going to want a TD05 16g, and something like a Z4 Ecu.
Decat exhaust, decent filter, Walbro pump. Ideally you should look into changing the TMIC as the slanty one fitted as standard isn't the best.
Version 4/5/6 TMIC is a little larger and should fit without too many fitting issues, although you will need the undertray. Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Impreza-Cl...40#ht_263wt_90
That "should" see you in the 300bhp region.
It may all go horribly wrong though, as these cars aren't getting any younger.
Old, fairly standard pic;
I don't have a current pic unfortunately.
Decat exhaust, decent filter, Walbro pump. Ideally you should look into changing the TMIC as the slanty one fitted as standard isn't the best.
Version 4/5/6 TMIC is a little larger and should fit without too many fitting issues, although you will need the undertray. Something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Impreza-Cl...40#ht_263wt_90
That "should" see you in the 300bhp region.
It may all go horribly wrong though, as these cars aren't getting any younger.
Old, fairly standard pic;
I don't have a current pic unfortunately.
#9
Thanks looking at that and some feed back helps me a little would a front intercooler be preferable to the top mount and does it really help to have that water spray to cool em actualy help at all I've herd mixed chat prob more trouble than it's worth I'm guessing
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thanks for all the info, im is the same boat as ninja, lol i only havre a k in mine, 95 import. i need more info on which ecu i can plug straight swap? is there any hidden issues or is it a straight swap, how much can i pick one up for and wouldnt it be ok to leave the td04 on and swap to td05 when it gives in?
cheers!
cheers!
#11
Hi guys I'm in the same boat as fast got a wrx wagon import 1995, any chance of some details on the turbo and y pipe your using ash as both are on my list of jobs for £900 quid what did I expect any pics on engine bays would be great dunno what's std and what's not lol sorry if I'm thread hi jacking
With regard to FMIC i would go down this route if you are tracking it or thrashing the crap out of it a lot. for example the heat soak into the TMIC after being out on the track for a few laps and then sitting in the pit lane is pretty scarey if the heat haze was anything to go by! I blew my bottom end up in the session after that too, so could have been a contributing factor if you want to look at it that way. bit more power from front mount too.
#12
Well I'm a little torn at the mo with the ic as I was thinking of going with a sti top mount the fitting a charge temp gauge with an ic spray looks like would be cheaper and less work as I think around £130 would crack it that way as I poss need a turbo any way money is key although I have a boost leak some where I'm sure so I'm hope a turbo on way out is a miss under standing of symptoms
#13
i went to sti tmic as i was only after about 300bhp on the dyno and didn't really want to muck about with fmic kit. fmic certainly not essential at that power target and it does force you to use an induction kit type filter instead of the airbox which can be less MAF friendly etc. Aparently.
My next build i will go FMIC however as i think i quite lke this track day malarky....
My next build i will go FMIC however as i think i quite lke this track day malarky....
#14
I'm not after huge power but I want it to be future proof, am I right in thinking the y pipe goes in to two in let's on the tmic ? And I'm running what I think is a piper cross mushroom filter up to the job or get a cold air feed ?
I'll add a pic as its easyer than guessing what I'm on about
I'll add a pic as its easyer than guessing what I'm on about
#15
yes mate, the intercooler Y-pipe comes off the compression side of the turbo into the intercooler.
On here i have heard a lot of tell that the standard airbox with a performance filter element is grand and avoids the induction of hot engine bay air. Cold air feed would be a good idea if you want to keep the mushroom i guess. But who knows how much difference it actually makes at our relatively modest states of tune!
have you had it on a rolling road yet? i would recomend it so you can see where you start off and more importantly see how sweet your engine is running including boost and air fuel ratio throughout the rev range.
On here i have heard a lot of tell that the standard airbox with a performance filter element is grand and avoids the induction of hot engine bay air. Cold air feed would be a good idea if you want to keep the mushroom i guess. But who knows how much difference it actually makes at our relatively modest states of tune!
have you had it on a rolling road yet? i would recomend it so you can see where you start off and more importantly see how sweet your engine is running including boost and air fuel ratio throughout the rev range.
#16
Not been on yet as not insured waiting on my isa to mature e.o.m so I'm getting a list together, as you suspected my tmic only has a single inlet so that means at least an sti upgrade, gonna run a service, coolant flush brake fluid flush, and I've got all the components to build an ic spray set up, I'm keep to have that ready for a dyno run to see what effect it'll have I've read reviews saying there equal to a front mount, the larger injectors 440cc are they actualy pink as my search returned sweet F A when I searched that lol
#17
lol yeah i'm crap at doing searches! 380s are grey, 440s yellow. The 440s i got were certainly yellow and phase one (had to use a fitting kit to adapt them as my car is phase 1.5 iirc!!). Keep in mind your standard ECU won't know that you have installed bigger injectors...
i think with regard to watersprays they are more to help reduce "fatigue" generated by heat soak from the engine reducing the IC's efficacy rather then adding extra performance. A FMIC would always be more efficient imo.
i think with regard to watersprays they are more to help reduce "fatigue" generated by heat soak from the engine reducing the IC's efficacy rather then adding extra performance. A FMIC would always be more efficient imo.
#19
Wallace Performance did mine mate. They said they could get me more if i wanted but it was on a safer map as my boost control solenoid was shot so was on a MBC at the time. Like i said though, was very strong on the road and saw 1.4 bar boost on a cold day and 90% injector duty, where as on the dyo it something like 1.2bar and 76% duty. You know what like with dynos and stuff, i was pleased with the map, knock reading was always super low (untill i blew it up on the track lol)
#20
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"Cooked" it?
Did similar with my classic, running around 300, got involved in some silly stuff with a Celica GT4 on a French motorway, daytime temperatures of 40+, arrived at a toll, queued, burned away: look mum, no bottom end.
Cost me loads to get it home, (no European cover, don't ask), and it's now rebuilt 2.5 forged and around 400/400.
Did similar with my classic, running around 300, got involved in some silly stuff with a Celica GT4 on a French motorway, daytime temperatures of 40+, arrived at a toll, queued, burned away: look mum, no bottom end.
Cost me loads to get it home, (no European cover, don't ask), and it's now rebuilt 2.5 forged and around 400/400.
#21
"Cooked" it?
Did similar with my classic, running around 300, got involved in some silly stuff with a Celica GT4 on a French motorway, daytime temperatures of 40+, arrived at a toll, queued, burned away: look mum, no bottom end.
Cost me loads to get it home, (no European cover, don't ask), and it's now rebuilt 2.5 forged and around 400/400.
Did similar with my classic, running around 300, got involved in some silly stuff with a Celica GT4 on a French motorway, daytime temperatures of 40+, arrived at a toll, queued, burned away: look mum, no bottom end.
Cost me loads to get it home, (no European cover, don't ask), and it's now rebuilt 2.5 forged and around 400/400.
Parked in pits after first session out, heat haze coming up off the bonnet brakes smoking a bit, cools a bit, go to join track, red flag so que for a while, then out on track did a lap at medium pace, then got excited trying to loose an M3 on slicks and catch the Renaultsport megans in front... "hmm that was a big miss fire, must have been on limiter sounded great! oh s**t there it is again..." Later that day.... "hi, i've broken down, no i'm not a member of AA, um about 100miles......"
#22
Ok so how do I no what phase motor I've got ? And what are the adaptors I might need and will I need a new ecu if so which one and if I got fmic injector turbo ecu what order is best do it in as I'd like not to take car off the road once it's on lol
#23
hi just in so I'm a bit drunk and will keep it brief! RE order of mods, all at once then map it to get the most! i certainly would not thrash about with a bigger snail and dumb ECU that thinks it's still pushing a TD04! or little injectors when it's actually 440s. anything that modifies the fueling or boost considerably i would want remapped before thrashing the crap out of. bottom end failures suck.
I went for an Apexi ECU as fully mappable and 450 odd quid 2nd hand. make sure it is correct one for your year of car. have a look under passenger foot-well, dig out OEM ECU and see how many plugs go into it. then you'll know if you are after a 3 plug, a 2 plug or whatever it is. Think yours is 2 plug??? yours will be phase 1, mine (MY97) and MY96 phase 1.5 i think and '98-99/00 phase 2 i think, bit sketchy on that though so don't take that as definitive.
I went for an Apexi ECU as fully mappable and 450 odd quid 2nd hand. make sure it is correct one for your year of car. have a look under passenger foot-well, dig out OEM ECU and see how many plugs go into it. then you'll know if you are after a 3 plug, a 2 plug or whatever it is. Think yours is 2 plug??? yours will be phase 1, mine (MY97) and MY96 phase 1.5 i think and '98-99/00 phase 2 i think, bit sketchy on that though so don't take that as definitive.
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